I did a D&F on my 2012 Mazda3 (Skyactiv) at 60,000 miles. It is very light blue out of the bottle, but it changes to a light straw color in short order. The stuff that came out was very clean and didn't stink. I don't really think it needs to be changed very often, if at all. You can flame me all you want for saying that. The transmission runs quite cool. I didn't drop the pan because I saw a thread on a Mazda site that told of how much trouble it was to scrape off the gasket compound. I might be enticed to change the filter if I keep the car past 150,000 miles. It has pleated media inside it. FZ is an ultra low viscosity synthetic fluid formulated specifically for the Skyactiv Drive units. I have found mine to be flawless.
hello ,we are a
group of mazda 3,6,cx 3,5,30 owners live in
extreme hot , dusty environment with an average temperature
109 °F.
and the owner manual doesn't have any hot countries and we have few questions
after i have read alot of discussions
1- we compared ATFs and found that mz-fz is fully synthatic made by idemitsu indonesia , toyota ws is meniral oil have group 3,4,5 , louqi moly 1800 are semilar to mazda fz but half priced and semi synthetic , dexron vi and
KIXX ATF DX-
VI are a bit thicker , quarter of the price and fully synthetic
can we mix mz-fz with dexron vi , and when to drain and fil ? all data sheets are here
Google Translate
2-aisin which made mazda
fw6ael and toyota
U660E which are very semilar make an oil for mz-fz, toyota ws but
not interchangable with dexron vi , although dex-vi that
they make is closer to mz-fz in viscosity
-why they are different if we assume because aisin want to include wide range of vehicle the fact that they made other oil with 6.12 for dex-vi which is closer to oem but they go for thicker oil !!
- according to russian forum: oem prefer fuel economy , start and go without warm up ,afw+ is close to toyota IV
- aisin in old brochure recommend change it every 2y or 12.4k miles , is this recomndation for full synthatic fluid ? i just checked my mz-fz it was yellowish after 12.4k miles not black as mentioned , lab test after 70k miles , lab test after 45.3 , recommend drain and fill every 31k miles ,
- after reading all the above what is the recommended oil to give higher protection and when to drain and fill
- the best way (in terms of clean the transmision from residue, maintain its viscocity , low risk )
4- aisin released in sep 2020 to usa a
specific fz oil what are the differences between it and oem ?
is to drain and fill every 31k miles or 3years with filter > 62k miles drain and fill without the filter > 77k miles drain and fill with filter. according to
3 or this
calculator
5-
are catch can necessary if we use 0w20, 5w30 api sp , sn + , zero sulfer
1 , because on our experience with 43500miles , 25 miles car there is minimal carbon build up on cylinder valve maybe of the heat?
- engine rebuilder discourage to touch the valve because it affect the valve seals so we cant use walnut nor manual picking, then how to clean them if throttle body spray travel long way through the intake manifold and may push dirt of the intake manifold to the engine ?
6- regarding bulit in mazda oil/air seperator under pcv when to c
lean them and how ,
what did mazda change after this article because my car is 2.0 2015 Mazda CX-9
7- when to chenge
transmision cooler because there is a website recommend to change it every 4-5 years
Google Translate , or instal
radiator with plate , the engine and transmission temperature range between 196 -215.5F
8- when to change break fluid in in dry environment because i haven't found an accurate tester
9- will cleaning
maf , oxygen synsor with maf cleaner damage it , what is the recommended interval ?
10-
fl22 and motorcraft vc10a2 are semilar , and motorcrafet said " Motorcraft® Yellow Antifreeze/Coolant can be used to top-off or entirely replace (drain and refill) antifreeze/coolant in vehicles factory-filled with Motorcraft® Specialty Green Engine Coolant.
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/quickref/FCSD Motorcraft Yellow Antifreeze-Coolant Backward Compatability.pdf , but in the newer SDS the yellow has 2-eha
https://www.msds.ford.com/documents/201944 D_GBEN.pdf
is it better than fl22?,, can we dilute it with 35/65 distilled watter to increase heat exchange (in 0.951 quart Measuring Cup , 0.62 quarts premix , 0.33 quarts distilled water
11- what do think of this schedule :
each 5.6k miles or 6 months : engine oil and filter , clean engine air filter by hitting it only , clean engine air box with air gun while closing maf inlet , injector cleaner , clean radiator from the back to front with air gun ,
each 11.2k miles : cabin filter , tyer rotation
each 18.6k miles : replace engine air filter
each 31 or 37.3 miles or 3 years: drain and fill transmission fluid with filter (fuel filters PE11-13-ZE0 and PE01-13-ZE1 according to the manual , our gasoline is EURO 5 , sulfer free . but the issue some times with underground tank that may have some dirt leak )
each 50k miles coolant flush
each 62k miles : ,alternator belt , pour catalytic converter cleaner in oxygen sensor inlet or
Cataclean ?, spark plugs , clean maf , manual cleaning with brush intake , intake manifold with there specific cleaner ,throttle body ,
each 124 miles water pump belt , oil pan drain plug
186.4 miles water pump and thermostat and radiator cap
each 3-5 years or brown color break fluid : break fluid flush synthetic dot 3 not 4 because it has longer life
thanks and we really appreciate your help