Couldnt put stud in fully so it left a gap and torqued it in

Joined
Jul 15, 2019
Messages
17
Location
California, LA
Honda Civic 2009 LX

So I was replacing my rotors today until I met a dilemma where one of the studs broke after forcing a breaker bar at it (I couldn't loosen it with a impact wrench so I forced it).

I havent done it before but I had seen someone use a lugnut to tighten it before (I stripped the lugnut - dont do it) but I manage to get it past the stud splines but I left little or more than 2mm of a gap. I gave up, lost all hope, bought a new lugnut and finished the whole thing.

I put the wheels back and torqued the lugnuts to recommended setting (80ft/lbs) and moved on.

I finally got rid of my warped rotors, now I'm kind of worried i have a different problem coming soon.

Should I be worried?
 
That's the issue with many press fit aftermarket parts, They make them oversized to fit wallowed out holes. I find myself drilling/reaming stuff often.
 
I'm not an experienced mechanic but assuming I put the splines in the hole I figured it'll be fine.

Just wanting to know if someone can give me a peace of mind or I have to get a stud kit and re-do it.
 
Originally Posted by SpicySenpai
I'm not an experienced mechanic but assuming I put the splines in the hole I figured it'll be fine.

Just wanting to know if someone can give me a peace of mind or I have to get a stud kit and re-do it.


You got 4 other studs/lugs holding the wheel on. I don't use lugnuts to draw studs into a hub, I use hardened nuts of the correct size with washers or a bearing. Use of anti seize helps a lot.

The correct procedure is to press them in from the backside.
 
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Originally Posted by SpicySenpai
I'm not an experienced mechanic but assuming I put the splines in the hole I figured it'll be fine.

Just wanting to know if someone can give me a peace of mind or I have to get a stud kit and re-do it.


You got 4 other studs/lugs holding the wheel on. I don't use lugnuts to draw studs into a hub, I use hardened nuts of the correct size with washers or a bearing. Use of anti seize helps a lot.

The correct procedure is to press them in from the backside.


Thanks! I wish the 4 studs is good enough but I will fix it when I feel fixing it. It took me 7 hours just to do both sides I'm wiped
 
When replacing a broken stud, I use an acorn lug nut, backwards (tapered end toward you), with washers, to pull the stud in.
 
Originally Posted by The Critic
Buy one of these and try again:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-Wheel-Stud-Installer/dp/B000ETUD22


Looks neat! I will buy one for future reference

Originally Posted by motor_oil_madman
It will probably pull its way through eventually after a few heat cycles.



I hope so - I still will re-check it after a few miles of driving

Originally Posted by Zaedock
When replacing a broken stud, I use an acorn lug nut, backwards (tapered end toward you), with washers, to pull the stud in.


Looking into amazon for one - thanks!
 
"Acorn" lug nuts are ordinary nuts used with steel wheels. It needs to be the kind with an open end so the stud can go through what is normally the wrong side when doing this.

I'd suggest drive a little then re-torque in case it did move.
 
Originally Posted by mk378
"Acorn" lug nuts are ordinary nuts used with steel wheels. It needs to be the kind with an open end so the stud can go through what is normally the wrong side when doing this.

I'd suggest drive a little then re-torque in case it did move.


I was thinking I'll torque it twice a week and see how it works from there.


Going to change struts and shocks soon so I'll try to check it out when I do it.
 
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