Since it is a rebuild I would consider doing both.
Trans flush or pan drop?
- Thread starter HoosierJeeper
- Start date
Originally Posted by Kira
Donald got it above. "...by the time people get to thinking about their transmission, it has a problem and has never been serviced." It's disheartening to side with a dealership but you can't blame 'em for wanting to distance themselves from a big, hairy situation. They can't be required to educate the customer base.
edyvw asked, "So what happens if something is stuck in the filter?". If it's a discernible piece of something-even a 1" long hunk of gasket- likely nothing will happen.
Transmission filters are rock catchers. The element in every one I've ever removed was completely clean "cloth".
WylieCoyote's tale of a plugged up filter is a rarity. I bet accumulation of such magnitude is "transmission specific".
Probably another boo on GM. There you can vilify his dealer because they didn't do what he asked for. They are lice, after all.
However, most important thig: transmission manufacturers recommend pan drop and refresh. But, maybe guy in Jiffy Lube knows better.
Donald got it above. "...by the time people get to thinking about their transmission, it has a problem and has never been serviced." It's disheartening to side with a dealership but you can't blame 'em for wanting to distance themselves from a big, hairy situation. They can't be required to educate the customer base.
edyvw asked, "So what happens if something is stuck in the filter?". If it's a discernible piece of something-even a 1" long hunk of gasket- likely nothing will happen.
Transmission filters are rock catchers. The element in every one I've ever removed was completely clean "cloth".
WylieCoyote's tale of a plugged up filter is a rarity. I bet accumulation of such magnitude is "transmission specific".
Probably another boo on GM. There you can vilify his dealer because they didn't do what he asked for. They are lice, after all.
However, most important thig: transmission manufacturers recommend pan drop and refresh. But, maybe guy in Jiffy Lube knows better.
Draw fluid out with top side with oil change pump. Replenish accordingly. Haven't seen a drain plug in a trans pan or torque converter in years. If there's enough stuff shucking off to clog the trans filter dropping the pan won't help. Normal bushing wear stays in the bottom of the pan. Flushing just stirs up that wear/sediment and it gets in the valve body. Trouble then.
Originally Posted by PontiacHO
Draw fluid out with top side with oil change pump. Replenish accordingly. Haven't seen a drain plug in a trans pan or torque converter in years. If there's enough stuff shucking off to clog the trans filter dropping the pan won't help. Normal bushing wear stays in the bottom of the pan. Flushing just stirs up that wear/sediment and it gets in the valve body. Trouble then.
Interesting...my past 5 vehicles have all had drain bolts.
Draw fluid out with top side with oil change pump. Replenish accordingly. Haven't seen a drain plug in a trans pan or torque converter in years. If there's enough stuff shucking off to clog the trans filter dropping the pan won't help. Normal bushing wear stays in the bottom of the pan. Flushing just stirs up that wear/sediment and it gets in the valve body. Trouble then.
Interesting...my past 5 vehicles have all had drain bolts.
All I do is a simple pan drain and refill every 50k miles.
Originally Posted by tbm5690
Originally Posted by PontiacHO
Draw fluid out with top side with oil change pump. Replenish accordingly. Haven't seen a drain plug in a trans pan or torque converter in years. If there's enough stuff shucking off to clog the trans filter dropping the pan won't help. Normal bushing wear stays in the bottom of the pan. Flushing just stirs up that wear/sediment and it gets in the valve body. Trouble then.
Interesting...my past 5 vehicles have all had drain bolts.
Good to know. What brands of vehicles? My last three trucks ( Ford - GM) didn't.
Originally Posted by PontiacHO
Draw fluid out with top side with oil change pump. Replenish accordingly. Haven't seen a drain plug in a trans pan or torque converter in years. If there's enough stuff shucking off to clog the trans filter dropping the pan won't help. Normal bushing wear stays in the bottom of the pan. Flushing just stirs up that wear/sediment and it gets in the valve body. Trouble then.
Interesting...my past 5 vehicles have all had drain bolts.
Good to know. What brands of vehicles? My last three trucks ( Ford - GM) didn't.
Originally Posted by PontiacHO
Good to know. What brands of vehicles? My last three trucks ( Ford - GM) didn't.
Mazda, Toyota/Lexus, Nissan, and Acura
Good to know. What brands of vehicles? My last three trucks ( Ford - GM) didn't.
Mazda, Toyota/Lexus, Nissan, and Acura
Originally Posted by Barkleymut
4 Jeeps in your sig, so you may be a good person to ask. My mom wants a "CRV sized" SUV. What engine/trans combo is the most reliable in the Jeep lineup?
Newer Cherokee (17+) with the 3.2. Pentastar is a reliable engine, plus the 9 speed tranny has been fixed with 17s and up. Honda uses the same transmission now too. Grands with either powertrain are reliable, but that's a lot bigger than a CRV.
Thanks for the advice, pan drop it is. Does Permatex Ultra Gray RTV work? Do I need to do it at a certain temp or measure what comes out? I have a dipstick BTW... old school!
4 Jeeps in your sig, so you may be a good person to ask. My mom wants a "CRV sized" SUV. What engine/trans combo is the most reliable in the Jeep lineup?
Newer Cherokee (17+) with the 3.2. Pentastar is a reliable engine, plus the 9 speed tranny has been fixed with 17s and up. Honda uses the same transmission now too. Grands with either powertrain are reliable, but that's a lot bigger than a CRV.
Thanks for the advice, pan drop it is. Does Permatex Ultra Gray RTV work? Do I need to do it at a certain temp or measure what comes out? I have a dipstick BTW... old school!
measure what comes out and put that amount back in. Follow the manufacturers recommendation for checking the level after that.
Originally Posted by tbm5690
Originally Posted by PontiacHO
Originally Posted by tbm5690
Originally Posted by PontiacHO
Draw fluid out with top side with oil change pump. Replenish accordingly. Haven't seen a drain plug in a trans pan or torque converter in years. If there's enough stuff shucking off to clog the trans filter dropping the pan won't help. Normal bushing wear stays in the bottom of the pan. Flushing just stirs up that wear/sediment and it gets in the valve body. Trouble then.
Interesting...my past 5 vehicles have all had drain bolts.
Good to know. What brands of vehicles? My last three trucks ( Ford - GM) didn't.
Mazda, Toyota/Lexus, Nissan, and Acura
Well that's the Japanese cars.
Originally Posted by PontiacHO
Originally Posted by tbm5690
Originally Posted by PontiacHO
Draw fluid out with top side with oil change pump. Replenish accordingly. Haven't seen a drain plug in a trans pan or torque converter in years. If there's enough stuff shucking off to clog the trans filter dropping the pan won't help. Normal bushing wear stays in the bottom of the pan. Flushing just stirs up that wear/sediment and it gets in the valve body. Trouble then.
Interesting...my past 5 vehicles have all had drain bolts.
Good to know. What brands of vehicles? My last three trucks ( Ford - GM) didn't.
Mazda, Toyota/Lexus, Nissan, and Acura
Well that's the Japanese cars.
Originally Posted by edyvw
Also, flush it but do not change filter? So what happens if something is stuck in the filter?
I know on mine the "filter" is really just a bit of window screen. Ok maybe a bit finer but hardly the sort of thing to get fine particles.
IMO, if you change often, like every 30k or even sooner, drain and fill is good enough. If you go 50-100k, then a full fluid exchange is "needed". All a matter of loading and breakdown--IMO if it's not getting loaded up, nor abuse, then a little but often keeps it in good enough shape, while "running to the end" makes me want to get as much as possible out.
Also, flush it but do not change filter? So what happens if something is stuck in the filter?
I know on mine the "filter" is really just a bit of window screen. Ok maybe a bit finer but hardly the sort of thing to get fine particles.
IMO, if you change often, like every 30k or even sooner, drain and fill is good enough. If you go 50-100k, then a full fluid exchange is "needed". All a matter of loading and breakdown--IMO if it's not getting loaded up, nor abuse, then a little but often keeps it in good enough shape, while "running to the end" makes me want to get as much as possible out.
Sounds wasteful but I did a drain and fill (top side fluid extraction) on the last F150 I owned three times.. Each time 5 quarts was added initially and then a 10 mile drive and repeat. Did this same 2 step service at 50k intervals throughout ownership without ever dropping the pan. The trans was still functioning as designed when it was traded with 168,000 miles.
I have a 12 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid with CVT and 77,000. Fluid partially changed when a front wheel seal went at 25,000. I decided to get a drain and fill at the closer Ford dealer. (Lincoln dealer wanted close to $500 for a flush). The ford dealer did not really want to do it claiming a lifetime fluid but I convinced them to do a drain and fill ( they did not even have the machine to do a flush). Anyway, when I brought it in they had to search a while to find the Ford procedure for a drain and fill on the CVT, obviously they do not do many of these. In summary, capacity is 5.4 quarts and they claim they put in 5.1 so almost as good as a flush if they are correct. They did give me a small bottle of the old fluid as I requested so I could see the color and odor etc. Very happy with the result, cost was $191. Perhaps slightly overpriced for a drain and fill but having the dealer do it made me more comfortable. Inquired at a lot of independents and no one was really familiar with doing the job.
A lot of shops won't even do a pan drop these days I had was tre turned down by NTB because my car was a 91 model with 80,000 miles and I want to have it serviced but they said no because they don't be responsible for any damage.
Originally Posted by HoosierJeeper
I have about 60k on my Jeep Liberty transmission since the rebuild. I'm getting conflicting information - would it better to do a pan drop or take it do the dealer to do a flush. It's a 42RLE.
Thanks!
First of all you should have serviced the transmission sooner that is assuming you owned it the entire time, the answer is yes and yes, the best service is flush the transmission first then do a pan drop and that is the excellent way to maintain your transmission.
I have about 60k on my Jeep Liberty transmission since the rebuild. I'm getting conflicting information - would it better to do a pan drop or take it do the dealer to do a flush. It's a 42RLE.
Thanks!
First of all you should have serviced the transmission sooner that is assuming you owned it the entire time, the answer is yes and yes, the best service is flush the transmission first then do a pan drop and that is the excellent way to maintain your transmission.
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by Kira
Donald got it above. "...by the time people get to thinking about their transmission, it has a problem and has never been serviced." It's disheartening to side with a dealership but you can't blame 'em for wanting to distance themselves from a big, hairy situation. They can't be required to educate the customer base.
edyvw asked, "So what happens if something is stuck in the filter?". If it's a discernible piece of something-even a 1" long hunk of gasket- likely nothing will happen.
Transmission filters are rock catchers. The element in every one I've ever removed was completely clean "cloth".
WylieCoyote's tale of a plugged up filter is a rarity. I bet accumulation of such magnitude is "transmission specific".
Probably another boo on GM. There you can vilify his dealer because they didn't do what he asked for. They are lice, after all.
However, most important thig: transmission manufacturers recommend pan drop and refresh. But, maybe guy in Jiffy Lube knows better.
For the last decade my trucks don't recommend a transmission filter replacement.
Originally Posted by Kira
Donald got it above. "...by the time people get to thinking about their transmission, it has a problem and has never been serviced." It's disheartening to side with a dealership but you can't blame 'em for wanting to distance themselves from a big, hairy situation. They can't be required to educate the customer base.
edyvw asked, "So what happens if something is stuck in the filter?". If it's a discernible piece of something-even a 1" long hunk of gasket- likely nothing will happen.
Transmission filters are rock catchers. The element in every one I've ever removed was completely clean "cloth".
WylieCoyote's tale of a plugged up filter is a rarity. I bet accumulation of such magnitude is "transmission specific".
Probably another boo on GM. There you can vilify his dealer because they didn't do what he asked for. They are lice, after all.
However, most important thig: transmission manufacturers recommend pan drop and refresh. But, maybe guy in Jiffy Lube knows better.
For the last decade my trucks don't recommend a transmission filter replacement.
Originally Posted by Govtman
Local big service place flushed my wifes car and the trans went out within the week. Mechanic i know said that was common. Some vehicle mfgs. will not warranty a transmission if it has been flushed.
Most manufacturers recommend a flush.
Local big service place flushed my wifes car and the trans went out within the week. Mechanic i know said that was common. Some vehicle mfgs. will not warranty a transmission if it has been flushed.
Most manufacturers recommend a flush.
Originally Posted by Govtman
Local big service place flushed my wifes car and the trans went out within the week. Mechanic i know said that was common. Some vehicle mfgs. will not warranty a transmission if it has been flushed.
I had this same bad experience on a Mini-van of mine which required a rebuild shortly thereafter (and I had NO issues prior to this machine flush).
IMHO: DO NOT use a "flush machine" like the BG type so often seen. Just do the OEM factory recommended method (whatever that is for your specific car). For most modern cars today, that is a simple drain and fill with fresh ATF (using the drain bolt, no pan drops needed) as many don't have replaceable filters anymore (unless you are talking about a truck). Honda used to recommend doing this three times (with driving some miles in-between) to increase getting the newest fluid concentration in the transmission (and cleaning the magnetic drain plug of course).
I now do mine every 30K miles or so (DIY for my car, the dealership for the wife's Rogue w/CVT). Cheap insurance.
Local big service place flushed my wifes car and the trans went out within the week. Mechanic i know said that was common. Some vehicle mfgs. will not warranty a transmission if it has been flushed.
I had this same bad experience on a Mini-van of mine which required a rebuild shortly thereafter (and I had NO issues prior to this machine flush).
IMHO: DO NOT use a "flush machine" like the BG type so often seen. Just do the OEM factory recommended method (whatever that is for your specific car). For most modern cars today, that is a simple drain and fill with fresh ATF (using the drain bolt, no pan drops needed) as many don't have replaceable filters anymore (unless you are talking about a truck). Honda used to recommend doing this three times (with driving some miles in-between) to increase getting the newest fluid concentration in the transmission (and cleaning the magnetic drain plug of course).
I now do mine every 30K miles or so (DIY for my car, the dealership for the wife's Rogue w/CVT). Cheap insurance.
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