Clocking struts properly

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Jun 1, 2013
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What is the trick to getting coilover struts aligned (or clocked) precisely. For my application they specify 34.7 +-2 degrees.

The first diagram is the orientation of the strut bolt flat.

If its off even a bit, you have to loosen it up and realign (or force the spring).
The diagram is pretty unclear.
You could matchmark the new mount, but it isn't that precise(very close, but enough to redo)

How can you measure this?


Install the front coil spring insulator upper to the front suspension support as shown in the illustration.NOTE:
The arrow on the front coil spring insulator upper must align with the identification mark on the front suspension. (there is no arrow, but a dot on the mount)
(f) Align the width across flat on the piston rod end of the shock absorber and width across flat on the suspension support.
Then install thesuspension support to the shock absorber.(g) Temporarily tighten the lock nut on the shock absorber.(h)

Adjust the front suspension support sub-assembly so that the bolts come to the positions as shown in the illustration, and remove the SST fromthe front coil spring

Page-1964003.png
 
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If this is an actual issue, there should be post on the procedure on the net. Your probably making a mountain out of a molehill.
 
When we first got our van in 2005 it had a tendency to pull left. After checking alignment and finding it good, the service manager mentioned rotating the spring and perch, which he did. Never had a pulling problem after that. By the diagram you simply compress and rotate the spring to get the end to match the angle.
 
Originally Posted by anthonym6
What is the application?


Lexus 11 GS AWD Front.

The strut has a hook for the AWD and a pin bolt that goes in a sleeve. The last pic is for the rear strut.

Not such a popular car to have many tutorials.
 
Originally Posted by ford46guy
What is the trick to getting coilover struts aligned (or clocked) precisely. For my application they specify 34.7 +-2 degrees.

The first diagram is the orientation of the strut bolt flat.

If its off even a bit, you have to loosen it up and realign (or force the spring).
The diagram is pretty unclear.
You could matchmark the new mount, but it isn't that precise(very close, but enough to redo)

How can you measure this?


Install the front coil spring insulator upper to the front suspension support as shown in the illustration.NOTE:
The arrow on the front coil spring insulator upper must align with the identification mark on the front suspension. (there is no arrow, but a dot on the mount)
(f) Align the width across flat on the piston rod end of the shock absorber and width across flat on the suspension support.
Then install thesuspension support to the shock absorber.(g) Temporarily tighten the lock nut on the shock absorber.(h)

Adjust the front suspension support sub-assembly so that the bolts come to the positions as shown in the illustration, and remove the SST fromthe front coil spring

Prior to removing the strut, use a paint pen to mark the strut mount stud that faces the outside of the vehicle. Once the strut assembly is out of the vehicle, use a paint pen to mark the end of the upper coil and the corresponding location on the underside of the strut mount. This will determine where the bottom coil will end as this is important for mounting purposes. Some Toyota strut mounts are "clocked" in a specific manner and this procedure will help ensure that the strut mount is installed in the correct orientation.

Transfer those marks to the new strut mount and reinstall your newly "built" assembly.
 
The 4th gen Maxima also has a clocking position like that. In that car, you bolt the top nuts first, then take a long screwdriver and turn the eye at the bottom of the shock until it's in the correct position
smile.gif


Are there any holes at the bottom of your strut? A clevis mount? Anything?
 
Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
The 4th gen Maxima also has a clocking position like that. In that car, you bolt the top nuts first, then take a long screwdriver and turn the eye at the bottom of the shock until it's in the correct position
smile.gif


Are there any holes at the bottom of your strut? A clevis mount? Anything?

the bottom of the strut sits in cast iron bracket. It is round with a notch. Notch would face the front I believe (not sure). How to install a Tundra Drive Train in a Sedan :lol:

[Linked Image]
 
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Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by ford46guy
What is the trick to getting coilover struts aligned (or clocked) precisely. For my application they specify 34.7 +-2 degrees.

The first diagram is the orientation of the strut bolt flat.

If its off even a bit, you have to loosen it up and realign (or force the spring).
The diagram is pretty unclear.
You could matchmark the new mount, but it isn't that precise(very close, but enough to redo)

How can you measure this?


Install the front coil spring insulator upper to the front suspension support as shown in the illustration.NOTE:
The arrow on the front coil spring insulator upper must align with the identification mark on the front suspension. (there is no arrow, but a dot on the mount)
(f) Align the width across flat on the piston rod end of the shock absorber and width across flat on the suspension support.
Then install thesuspension support to the shock absorber.(g) Temporarily tighten the lock nut on the shock absorber.(h)

Adjust the front suspension support sub-assembly so that the bolts come to the positions as shown in the illustration, and remove the SST fromthe front coil spring

Prior to removing the strut, use a paint pen to mark the strut mount stud that faces the outside of the vehicle. Once the strut assembly is out of the vehicle, use a paint pen to mark the end of the upper coil and the corresponding location on the underside of the strut mount. This will determine where the bottom coil will end as this is important for mounting purposes. Some Toyota strut mounts are "clocked" in a specific manner and this procedure will help ensure that the strut mount is installed in the correct orientation.

Transfer those marks to the new strut mount and reinstall your newly "built" assembly.

I did that, was probably off by .5 degree and had to loosen almost all the way to move it a bit. Lets just say it is a very strong, tight spring for this 2 ton car ,and some coils are progressive and it matters how you compress it (with those junky sticks). Next one I will mark very precisely. If the angle is correct the lower part (I posted another diagram) just "falls in."
 
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Originally Posted by ford46guy

I did that, was probably off by .5 degree and had to loosen almost all the way to move it a bit. Lets just say it is a very strong, tight spring for this 2 ton car ,and some coils are progressive and it matters how you compress it (with those junky sticks). Next one I will mark very precisely. If the angle is correct the lower part (I posted another diagram) just "falls in."

Yep, that happens when you replace the mount. This is why we try re-use the mount if at all possible. When the mount is reused, the spring/mount relationship does not get changed.
 
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by ford46guy

I did that, was probably off by .5 degree and had to loosen almost all the way to move it a bit. Lets just say it is a very strong, tight spring for this 2 ton car ,and some coils are progressive and it matters how you compress it (with those junky sticks). Next one I will mark very precisely. If the angle is correct the lower part (I posted another diagram) just "falls in."

Yep, that happens when you replace the mount. This is why we try re-use the mount if at all possible. When the mount is reused, the spring/mount relationship does not get changed.

Thanks. Was on the fence with the mounts but the rust was a bit too much for comfort. The rubber looked very dry too, but these may be in another 100K.
 
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