Originally Posted by doitmyself
willbur, there is no correct, single answer. It is exactly like the conundrum surrounding use of antiseize on spark plug threads. Companies like NGK recommend not to use it. Some vehicle factory service manuals recommend it (The Critic recently posted Honda recommends a small amount).
After accepting this, it becomes a personal choice based on one's perceptions.
I choose to use a paper thin layer of Paste Lub*. In our salt laden winters, I want to slow down rust as much as possible, which a thin layer of Paste Lube assists with. The need for lubrication to assist sliding is probably minimal since the brackets are slippery stainless steel. Eventually the pad ear paint wears off and rust can start, thus my choice to lube the ears.
You will hear lots of arguments. The lube wears off fast, it collects dust, etc. If you watch 10 expert videos, you will see the "pros" doing it both ways. To each his own.
* Paste lube is a waterproof, tenacious long lasting moly lube similar (but different) to Molykote77. I have found that a paper thin layer keeps my rotor hats, hubs, other bare metal parts 100% rust free. A tub lasts many years.
https://goodson.com/collections/brake-lubes/products/bpl-2400-pastelub-brake-lubricant
Plenty of OEM's show to lube the ears. So, again like the spark plugs, choose to follow what you want. From a Honda site:
What's interesting is that FSM's may specify using lube, but if you look at a brand new vehicle, there is no lube on any of the areas specified. Pad ears will be bone dry and sometimes shims are dry. Recently did a brake job on a 2016/17 era Toyota product and even the shims no longer come with any lube. Obviously the FSM continues to specify otherwise.