Question on Time-Based Interval for Brake Replacement

[Nyquist]

My 2015 Chevy Traverse has about 75,000 miles on it with the OEM brakes. It was built in December 2014. It sees a lot of city and some highway miles. So far the amount of pad material looks Ok, but I wanted to see if there was any knowledge of a time-based replacement interval. Any constructive feedback is appreciated.

My driving style can be described as calm, yet controlled aggression.

 

[2010Civic]

I have the original pads and rotors on my 2010 Civic. No problems with them. I think a brake pad would last forever time wise.

 

[clinebarger]

Brakes can't tell time

If the pads are still within spec & Don't pulsate.....Leave them be!

Though lubing the slide pins & pad ears is a good idea every 2-3 years. In the rust belt.....Removing the rust under the hardware isn't a bad idea as I'm sure "Rust Jacking" is a common issue.

 

[bachman]

Originally Posted by 2010Civic
I have the original pads and rotors on my 2010 Civic. No problems with them. I think a brake pad would last forever time wise.


Forever being under 40,000 miles in my case ......

Rear brakes, I can definitely attest to lasting a while though. Driving style, engine braking with a manual, hills or mountain driving, at some point you'll glance at the odo reading around the time your brakes need attention OR , it'll just be continued mystery.

Beware of squeaking and grinding though.

 

[Wolf359]

I do a lot of city driving and sometimes there's lots of stop and go so mine tend to wear out after 3-4 years, sometimes only after 2 if the rotors warp. I now have brake wear sensor on my car, they go off when you hit 25% of brake pad left. You can just inspect them and when they get down there, replace them. People who do highway driving or don't drive much can have them last much longer.

 

[CharBaby]

If it's any consolation:
Not that I do a lot of driving in this car and the driving is typically all sunny day type driving unless I get caught in the rain. However, the Firebird in my signature that I bought new 40 years ago, still has the factory brake pads & shoes in it. Fisk/Rrum.

I've pulled'em apart ~4X over the years and cleaned, lubed, painted everything & bled the brake system fluid. I think I've bled the brake system fluid ~6X just because.

 

[demarpaint]

If they have friction material left, clean them and lube the areas that require lubrication and motor on. If you haven't done a brake fluid change within the past two years, now would be a good time to do it.

 

[ABN_CBT_ENGR]

Originally Posted by Nyquist
My 2015 Chevy Traverse has about 75,000 miles on it with the OEM brakes. It was built in December 2014. It sees a lot of city and some highway miles. So far the amount of pad material looks Ok, but I wanted to see if there was any knowledge of a time-based replacement interval. Any constructive feedback is appreciated.

My driving style can be described as calm, yet controlled aggression.


Let me give you my experience on this question in general because in my world, the question( and the answer) remains the same no matter what the application.

Every single client who has ever hired me to do a maintenance assessment asks that same question- give me a PM schedule for "X". They all want it to be perfect, reduce downtime, save money on MRO and increase asset lifecycle and address overall total cost of ownership. ( everything of course)

Then they want a "number" based on a "meter" ( be it hour meter, odometer, cycle count, calendar or whatever) to plug in a CMMS to spit out.

So, if you define "needs replacement" specifically as when the "thing" is no longer capable of performing to design requirements.....( which is really the only measureable definition of "needs' replacement as opposed to a "good idea")

Any "meter based PM" has a risk of replacing a serviceable part with another serviceable part. ( more of a financial risk than anything else)- on the other side, it carries an equal risk of possibly incurring a degree of damage if the meter is too long. ( risk of downtime or higher cost to operate and possible future reduction in operating capacity)

Inspection PM or PdM increases accuracy of a "condition based assessment" decision to act but carries a cost and investment in time and money and often the true results are "intangible".

Then there is the business based decision to "replace certain parts at a given schedule or frequency because the risk of possible failure is unacceptable"- this is often done and could be said for changing all belts/hoses at "whatever' just to avoid the potential for a bigger event later.

I have never seen a viable one-size-fits-all solution to this question.

All of those strategies are legitimate and work- all of them carry a degree of risk and cost- all of them require a decision based on specific circumstances.

I would proffer that you decide what's most important to you in the way you operate your vehicle and what level of risk you deem acceptable and implement it.

 

[eljefino]

I've had brake pads delaminate-- the lining separates from the backing because the backing rusts and pries the two apart.

There are premium pads where the backing has little needles that penetrate the lining, like velcro, to keep this from happening. They're too rich for my blood.

I expect OE pads to be better for this, and by OE I mean OE OE, not necessarily the branded replacements at the dealer, though those should be at least tolerable too.

I have also had OE brake shoes glaze over or otherwise loose effectiveness after a decade. Gauged by e-brake operation, even with the best of adjustment.

What others say about the pins and keeping everything free sliding is important too. Might have to grind a little rust off the pad ears or chip it out of the bracket from under the clips.

 

[krismoriah72]

Originally Posted by Nyquist
My 2015 Chevy Traverse has about 75,000 miles on it with the OEM brakes. It was built in December 2014. It sees a lot of city and some highway miles. So far the amount of pad material looks Ok, but I wanted to see if there was any knowledge of a time-based replacement interval. Any constructive feedback is appreciated.

My driving style can be described as calm, yet controlled aggression.



A premium pad for your vehicle should be fairly cheap.. if you plan on keeping it awhile $40 is a fair price for another 75K miles. If you plan on getting rid of it then 'OK' is good enough to get you by.

I am in the camp that if i am to tear it all down to inspect, clean and lube I may as well install another set of pads.

 

[Nyquist]

I did the fluid swap last summer. It was fairly easy.

 

[ford46guy]

Rear brakes should be inspected, maybe every 2 years MAX.
Not just a quick visual pad depth check either, the pins should be tested.
My Lexus had pins that needed a sledgehammer to move, literally.

 

[StarCaller]

Originally Posted by eljefino
There are premium pads where the backing has little needles that penetrate the lining, like velcro, to keep this from happening.


what brand would that be ?

 

[2heeldrive]

It's probably more important to change/flush the brake fluid. I had to rebuild the rear calipers on my Toyota because I didn't do that. I guess 15 years was a little too long. The pads were fine though, they are still on there (19 years now).

If the car lives in the rust belt, the rotors might rust out before the pads wear out.

 

[circuitsmith]

I'm a weekend and road trip driver (bike to work), about 5000 miles a year.
I can generally avoid driving when the roads are salty.
I drive 50/50 city/highway, pretty gently as not to scare my squeamish spouse.

Typically the rotors get funky before the pads wear down, 70-80,000 miles..
I flush brake fluid every 3 years, clean and lube sliding surfaces & pins every 6 years.

 

[Alfred_B]

Just drive until the sensors trigger a warning light.