Welding Steel to Nodular Iron

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Sep 26, 2010
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Originally Posted by tundraotto
drill and tap for NPT instead?


I agree

but

Brazing seems reasonable. Welding cast iron requires skill and prep that I'm guessing you aren't prepared for.
 
You would need to pre-heat and use a hi nickel rod and post heat. Many off roaders have their tubes welded to the front pumpkin, including the custom high-pinion Ford front axle in my Jeep.

Metalcloak makes robust covers. I'd bet you could drill and tap the 1/8" npt instead of the bung.

My recommendation - drill and tap the axle housing itself instead of the cover. The main purpose of the beefy covers is to protect the axle.
It doesn't seem like having a sensor where it can get bashed is the best way to go.
 
Originally Posted by Zaedock
You would need to pre-heat and use a hi nickel rod and post heat. Many off roaders have their tubes welded to the front pumpkin, including the custom high-pinion Ford front axle in my Jeep.

Metalcloak makes robust covers. I'd bet you could drill and tap the 1/8" npt instead of the bung.

My recommendation - drill and tap the axle housing itself instead of the cover. The main purpose of the beefy covers is to protect the axle.
It doesn't seem like having a sensor where it can get bashed is the best way to go.
I would not drill and tap the axle housing, it would nearly require a complete tear down to get all of the crud out of it. The sensor will be pretty high on the cover and I do not rock crawl so no worries there. I may just drill and tap the cover, now that I have received one, it is at least 1/2" thick if not thicker.
 
The chuck could come out without too much trouble, but if you're not wheeling hard, then yes, tapping the cover is the best way.

Racetronix make a cool aluminum 3/8" to 1/8" reducer. Not sure if that would work for you.
 
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