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Welding Steel to Nodular Iron #5410984 04/23/20 08:35 AM
Joined: Sep 2010
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2015_PSD Online Content OP
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I picked up a new set of axle covers (rear - https://metalcloak.com/jl-wrangler-jt-gladiator-rear-dana-m220-d44-differential-cover.html) and front (https://metalcloak.com/jl-wrangler-jt-gladiator-front-differential-cover-skid-plate-kit.html) and am going to add a 1/8" NPT steel boss for my axle gauge sensors. Since the covers have no oil pressure or stress on them, is it safe to say that brazing the bosses onto the covers is the best choice?

Anything I am not considering?


2019 o)|||||(o Rubicon Wrangler Unlimited 3.6L V6 [Castrol Edge + Ultra]
2018 Mercedes Benz C300 2.0L Turbo [Pennzoil Platinum + Mann filter]
Re: Welding Steel to Nodular Iron [Re: 2015_PSD] #5411014 04/23/20 08:55 AM
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tundraotto Offline
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drill and tap for NPT instead?

Re: Welding Steel to Nodular Iron [Re: 2015_PSD] #5411023 04/23/20 09:04 AM
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tig1 Offline
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Use Eutectic 2233 cast iron rod or any quality machinable cast rod.


2007 Ford Fusion 258,000 miles
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Re: Welding Steel to Nodular Iron [Re: tundraotto] #5411492 04/23/20 06:08 PM
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tom slick Offline
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Originally Posted by tundraotto
drill and tap for NPT instead?


I agree

but

Brazing seems reasonable. Welding cast iron requires skill and prep that I'm guessing you aren't prepared for.


You get what you pay for...
So keep in mind how much you paid for this advice.
Re: Welding Steel to Nodular Iron [Re: 2015_PSD] #5411552 04/23/20 07:17 PM
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Zaedock Offline
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You would need to pre-heat and use a hi nickel rod and post heat. Many off roaders have their tubes welded to the front pumpkin, including the custom high-pinion Ford front axle in my Jeep.

Metalcloak makes robust covers. I'd bet you could drill and tap the 1/8" npt instead of the bung.

My recommendation - drill and tap the axle housing itself instead of the cover. The main purpose of the beefy covers is to protect the axle.
It doesn't seem like having a sensor where it can get bashed is the best way to go.


2019 Escape EB AWD/2016 KIA Optima SXL 2.0L Turbo/2012 F150 Ex-cab 5.0L
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Re: Welding Steel to Nodular Iron [Re: Zaedock] #5411585 04/23/20 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Zaedock
You would need to pre-heat and use a hi nickel rod and post heat. Many off roaders have their tubes welded to the front pumpkin, including the custom high-pinion Ford front axle in my Jeep.

Metalcloak makes robust covers. I'd bet you could drill and tap the 1/8" npt instead of the bung.

My recommendation - drill and tap the axle housing itself instead of the cover. The main purpose of the beefy covers is to protect the axle.
It doesn't seem like having a sensor where it can get bashed is the best way to go.
I would not drill and tap the axle housing, it would nearly require a complete tear down to get all of the crud out of it. The sensor will be pretty high on the cover and I do not rock crawl so no worries there. I may just drill and tap the cover, now that I have received one, it is at least 1/2" thick if not thicker.


2019 o)|||||(o Rubicon Wrangler Unlimited 3.6L V6 [Castrol Edge + Ultra]
2018 Mercedes Benz C300 2.0L Turbo [Pennzoil Platinum + Mann filter]
Re: Welding Steel to Nodular Iron [Re: 2015_PSD] #5411610 04/23/20 08:33 PM
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Zaedock Offline
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The chuck could come out without too much trouble, but if you're not wheeling hard, then yes, tapping the cover is the best way.

Racetronix make a cool aluminum 3/8" to 1/8" reducer. Not sure if that would work for you.


2019 Escape EB AWD/2016 KIA Optima SXL 2.0L Turbo/2012 F150 Ex-cab 5.0L
1992 YJ "The Heep"/2015 Chrysler 200 Limited
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