2017 Ford F-150 3.5L ecoboost

[jharmon203]

I used pennzoil that advertised being good for turbo charged engines. I only got it because it was on sale. The Meijer brand I used in the previous oil change worked well too. The only thing that hasn't done great is the first oil change with motorcraft. It could be due to engine break-in but after 9k miles you would hope that would be a little more resolved.

I increased the mileage change again to test the theory on the fuel issue with ecoboost engines. This was closer to 9k miles.

 

[WyrTwister]

Do as you wish , your money .

I am going ~ 3000 on dino oil and 5000 - 5500 on synthetic . Cheap insurance , when compared to the total cost of ownership .

 

[zeng]

Iron and copper wear rates is trending down , no worry IMO .
11000 miles as lab suggested should be good to go .
Break-in is still probably working its way .

 

[jharmon203]

Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Do as you wish , your money .

I am going ~ 3000 on dino oil and 5000 - 5500 on synthetic . Cheap insurance , when compared to the total cost of ownership .


I respect your decision, but what if you are buying insurance you do not need. The trends on my engine are wearing just fine with longer oil changes. Plus, I get the benefit of the oil analysis.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Originally Posted by jharmon203
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Do as you wish , your money .

I am going ~ 3000 on dino oil and 5000 - 5500 on synthetic . Cheap insurance , when compared to the total cost of ownership .


I respect your decision, but what if you are buying insurance you do not need. The trends on my engine are wearing just fine with longer oil changes. Plus, I get the benefit of the oil analysis.

If you are first and last owner, use Wyr's suggestion. If you sell at around 100-125K and 10 years - as most do, Supertech oil and Supertech filter is fine.

I am pro-Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. This Platinum UOA is just OK, in the add-pack dept. The Warren Oil's Meijer UOA tastes better to your engine.
Strange how that works sometimes. You can get Ultra Platinum at Walmart.com for the same price as Platinum. $35 purchase for free shipping. I bought 2 in January.

The Platinum did fine for your long OCI. I credit the nice GTL base oil over the just average add-pack. If it were me, I'd cut the OCIs to 7K. Keep that oil from turning dark soon. My vehicle oils stay clear on the dipstick for over 1K. I suggest that measurement and adjust OCIs to fix - if necessary. Yes, I consider clear as being necessary. First and last owner here and anal over my engine oils. My filters are middle-ground.... not basic like PepBoy Proline for example - nor top-tier like Fram Ultra.

 

[NuttCase]

That looks like a good run to me. The Shell Helix Ultra 5W30 typically run at 11.5 to 12.2 KV100 virgin and your sample is down at 9.33 so you have lost a fair amount of KV (assuming Pennzoil and Shell equivalency) and it is just within spec. If that was my UOA I'd probably be keeping to a 8000-9000 mile OCI and not the Blackstone suggestion of pushing another 2,000 miles.

 

[jharmon203]

I will certainly not be going over 10k miles. However, this oil change interval seems to be good enough for now.

 

[Cujet]

Originally Posted by jharmon203
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Do as you wish , your money .

I am going ~ 3000 on dino oil and 5000 - 5500 on synthetic . Cheap insurance , when compared to the total cost of ownership .


I respect your decision, but what if you are buying insurance you do not need. The trends on my engine are wearing just fine with longer oil changes. Plus, I get the benefit of the oil analysis.


The error is in thinking a UOA displays the wear rate. Nothing could be further from the truth.

Furthermore, a good number of the 3.5 EB engines are have timing chain problems at 90-100K miles. This is due to significant particulate matter in the oil, lack of sufficient viscosity and evaporated fuel byproducts. The test for fuel dilution does not determine how much fuel has evaporated from your oil, leaving behind components that are not oil. The fix is about $4K. Or you can simply choose a quality synthetic of sufficient viscosity and change it ever 5K and expect 200K+ miles.

 

[jharmon203]

Originally Posted by Cujet
Originally Posted by jharmon203
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Do as you wish , your money .

I am going ~ 3000 on dino oil and 5000 - 5500 on synthetic . Cheap insurance , when compared to the total cost of ownership .


I respect your decision, but what if you are buying insurance you do not need. The trends on my engine are wearing just fine with longer oil changes. Plus, I get the benefit of the oil analysis.


The error is in thinking a UOA displays the wear rate. Nothing could be further from the truth.

Furthermore, a good number of the 3.5 EB engines are have timing chain problems at 90-100K miles. This is due to significant particulate matter in the oil, lack of sufficient viscosity and evaporated fuel byproducts. The test for fuel dilution does not determine how much fuel has evaporated from your oil, leaving behind components that are not oil. The fix is about $4K. Or you can simply choose a quality synthetic of sufficient viscosity and change it ever 5K and expect 200K+ miles.


Do you have a link to documentation that supports this?

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted by Cujet
Originally Posted by jharmon203
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Do as you wish , your money .

I am going ~ 3000 on dino oil and 5000 - 5500 on synthetic . Cheap insurance , when compared to the total cost of ownership .


I respect your decision, but what if you are buying insurance you do not need. The trends on my engine are wearing just fine with longer oil changes. Plus, I get the benefit of the oil analysis.


The error is in thinking a UOA displays the wear rate. Nothing could be further from the truth.

Furthermore, a good number of the 3.5 EB engines are have timing chain problems at 90-100K miles. This is due to significant particulate matter in the oil, lack of sufficient viscosity and evaporated fuel byproducts. The test for fuel dilution does not determine how much fuel has evaporated from your oil, leaving behind components that are not oil. The fix is about $4K. Or you can simply choose a quality synthetic of sufficient viscosity and change it ever 5K and expect 200K+ miles.

Lets use Cujets post an a more general truth which we all should know is each engine and each engines use should determine the oil change interval . UOAs are for how the oil is holding up. Thickening .thinning Ph etc.

 

[Gene K]

Originally Posted by Cujet
Originally Posted by jharmon203
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Do as you wish , your money .

I am going ~ 3000 on dino oil and 5000 - 5500 on synthetic . Cheap insurance , when compared to the total cost of ownership .


I respect your decision, but what if you are buying insurance you do not need. The trends on my engine are wearing just fine with longer oil changes. Plus, I get the benefit of the oil analysis.


The error is in thinking a UOA displays the wear rate. Nothing could be further from the truth.

Furthermore, a good number of the 3.5 EB engines are have timing chain problems at 90-100K miles. This is due to significant particulate matter in the oil, lack of sufficient viscosity and evaporated fuel byproducts. The test for fuel dilution does not determine how much fuel has evaporated from your oil, leaving behind components that are not oil. The fix is about $4K. Or you can simply choose a quality synthetic of sufficient viscosity and change it ever 5K and expect 200K+ miles.

Lets use Cujets post an a more general truth which we all should know is each engine and each engines use should determine the oil change interval . UOAs are for how the oil is holding up. Thickening .thinning Ph etc.

I think it's to soon to know how exactly how these Gen 2 Engines with a totally different timing set design and dual injection will compare to the Gen 1. I do know it's possible to go 200,000+ mi on a '11 with the original timing set and turbos on 5,000 mi changes of MC Blend and 400,000+ mi on a '13 with 7,000 mi changes on whatever the conventional oil change special at the autoparts happens to be. It's also possible to need a new timing set before the first oil change. I suspect the issues are not as simple as some of us would like it to be.

PS It would be nice if we could get a new attachment since we lost is with the transition.

 

[Impatient]

^^^ yes, would like to see the UOA, or at least mention what visc, fuel, iron, copper, alum results were

 

[jharmon203]

I didn't realize that the last data was lost. Here they are