Hyundai OEM Filters - Specific reason for low efficiency?

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Gold Coast, QL, Australia
I have decided to do my next oil change on the GDi Accent to save $200...
I will be sticking with 10w30 Castrol Edge, and decided to grab a Ryco Syntec filter since I'll be saving a fair bit of cash.

So doing my research, the OEM Hyundai (Mann Korea) Filters are only 99.2% efficient @50 microns, whereas the Ryco Syntec is 99.8% efficient @25 microns and is still guaranteed for 15,000km.
To me it seems a no-brainer to go for the Syntec, especially with the amount of soot particles direct injection systems pump into the oil.

I bought the Syntec but I can't help wondering if there's a reason. Researching the whole flow Vs filtration thing returned mixed reviews, but does anyone know if there's a specific reason why the Hyundai filters are so inefficient on paper compared to a good aftermarket alternative?

Another question - Anyone had any experience on how changing your own oil affects a new car warranty? ...
 
I've used them all in my various Hyundai and one KIA - from STP up to Fram Ultra and OEM, without issue since 2010. I don't buy the "flow" argument. Others here swear by it and others still, by the argument that only OEM should be used. Not me.

OP, use the one you're most comfortable with.
 
From reading the Kia Soul forum the past year, it appears to me that KIA (and presumably Hyundai) go out of their way to find reasons not to honor warranty claims.
I use their filters only because they are often less expensive than aftermarket. Just make sure you document your oil/filter changes.

Not sure about laws in Australia which may differ from USA.
 
I used OE Blue Hyundai filters on my 2013 Sonata because:

-No issues if warranty was necessary
-Built to Hyundai specs - filtration and pressure relief valve spec
-A rock solid filter as per FRAM engineer's comments on BITOG

Just curious on the oil change intervals for Australia - in Canada Hyundai requires 3,750 miles / 6,000 kms or 6 months.
Keep receipts of oil and filter purchase along with log of mileage and date oil changed.
I also take a picture of the instrument cluster showing the odometer. The picture will have a date stamp as part of the info for the photo.

Here the oil change is about $90 CDN at the dealer. How would you save $200 by doing it yourself?
CDN$ = AUS$
 
Not sure if it's the same part number, but I had this TSB dated March 4, 2016 bookmarked at some point from Fram:

Originally Posted by Fram Filtration
Subject: Service Champ Spin-on Oil Filter P/N OF4459/WPH2808 used on Hyundai/KIA Vehicle Applications

This bulletin is being issued to address market concerns regarding or pertaining to oil filter over-pressurization on certain late model Hyundai/KIA vehicles. Over-pressurization is caused when the oil system pressure reaches levels much higher than normal operating conditions. It can result in bulging of the filter body and in the most serious case, loss of engine oil. Over-pressurization is not caused by a defect in the oil filter.

Typical engine operating oil pressures range from 40 - 60 psi. In cold start-up conditions when the oil is thicker, pressures may increase to 125 psi for a short period. If an over-pressurization event occurs, the engine should be serviced to determine the root cause of this problem.

The Service Champ Spin-on oil filter P/N OF4459/WPH2808 specified for late model Hyundai/Kia's will withstand burst pressures up to 350 psi, a safety factor well beyond normal operating conditions. This filter is designed to meet all Hyundai Original Equipment oil filter requirements for fit and function for the applications specified when properly installed to ¾ - 1 turn.



I believe the original TSB from Hyundai about aftermarket filters was sometime around 2012, which was revised in 2014. With that said, according to this class action lawsuit document filed in California in 2017:

Originally Posted by Class Action Complaint
In TSB No. ENG114R1, KMA acknowledged that the earlier model years of the Class Vehicles with identical engines were defective and experienced a knocking noise." As a result, KMA directed dealers to blame the engine defect on the use of aftermarket oil filters and instructed the dealers to replace the aftermarket oil filter with a genuine Kia oil filter. The TSB also explained that this "repair" is not covered under warranty. KMA has failed to provide any post-sale notification to owners and lessees regarding the use of only genuine Kia oil filters in the Class Vehicles. Instead, KMA attempts to circumvent warranty obligations related to the engine defect by faulting customers for use of an aftermarket oil filter. The defective connecting rod bearings and oil lubrication channels are not, however, caused by the use of an aftermarket engine oil filter. Despite KMA's knowledge of this fact, KMA has not informed Plaintiffs of the true cause of the defective connecting rod bearings and insufficient oil lubrication channels.


Originally Posted by Class Action Complaint
Upon information and belief, the connecting rod bearings in the GDI Engines undergo a prolonged failure as metal debris circulates throughout the engine via the engine oil. Over time, and as a result of these contaminates in the oiling system, the connecting rod bearings begin to fracture. Once the connecting rod bearings fracture, large amounts of metal debris begin to accumulate in the engine oil. As a result, the oil becomes so contaminated with metal debris that the oil filter can no longer remove the plethora of contaminates and maintain the necessary oil pressure within the engine. This contaminated engine oil is recirculated throughout the engine by the oil pump, causing damage to the various engine components and eventually results in sudden and unexpected catastrophic engine failure. If the vehicle is being operated on the highway at the time of the engine failure, it will ultimately result in a high-speed stalling event.

Additionally, as the connecting rod bearings continue to fracture, the acceptable tolerances between the bearings, the connecting rod, and the crankshaft rapidly deteriorate. Eventually, the Class Vehicles begin producing a "knocking" sound originating from the engine as a result of the deteriorating bearings. In some instances, the defective connecting rod bearings may eventually cause the piston to break through the engine block as a result of the deterioration.
 
Hyundai has a questionable OEM filter, "a swiss cheese" filter because they need to open up flow. But for some reason, weight and quality of manufacturing seems to trump actual low micron filtering performance by some people. I get it, better safe with the OEM filter as far as warranty. But in the USA we have the Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act, so we can use any filter speced for the car. Hyundai/Kia now close to 10 years has had a possible boundary layer oil issue, possible piston and cylinder metallurgy issue and or their rod bearing or oil pump issue. No one knows why, not even Hyundai/Kia why they have had their problem for the past 10 years.14 to 16% of Hyundai/Kia will get a new engine in their lifetime, yet Mitsubishi runs the basically same designed engines with their own metallurgy/piston/rods/bearings with no known high failure rate.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Global_Engine_Alliance

I had one in a 2013 Elantra GT at 14,000 miles. That was a piston to cylinder wall issue that was caught by me because the debris takes out the lifters and you get the Hyundai tick of death sound. That was on a motor that was not on the BS crank debris list they were hiding behind. I was running Mobil 1 and Fram Ultras at 3,000-3,500 change intervals because of my wife's short tripping in Minnesota winters. Hyundai wanted to void my warranty because of the Fram Ultra. Within i second after that was said in a vague way I might add. I said "you can't void my warranty by US law, The Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act says I have the right to use any filter I want as long as it was speced for that car." NOTHING was ever said after those words where spoke by me.

So the flow issue got me curious, so I called Fram and got the same Magnusen-Moss right to use any brand BS. I then was pointed to the at the time Fram rep on this site and he told me Fram saw a couple of blow can issues years ago when Hyundai increased oil pump pressure to try to fix their oil film boundary layer issue. Fram brought that Hyundai speced filter # back into testing and increased can thickness and followed exactly Hyundai's specs on the by-pass valve psi. He also said the Fram Ultra far exceeds oil flow over the paper Hyundai filter since the Ultra has synthetic media and is a "depth 3D based filter vs a surface based filter" that Hyundai uses.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29114/dirt-holding-capacity

Most here know how good the Fram Ultra filters filter oil, far exceeding Hyundai's lame OEM filtering specs. I like Hyundai's so when my rebuilt Hyundai long block was still down what seemed like 20 hp after 5,000 miles. I sold it for a NEW Hyundai, since I still love Hyundai's, and my 2018 Hyundai Kona 1.6T AWD has one of Hyundai's best motors. So I pulled the trigger. Plus I knew I was going to make a semi hot hatch out of it, and wanted "AWD for the corners". You just can't beat AWD for a street racer, plus as a daily in Minnesota winter it helps too. Here is a short video for some of you thinking AWD in the corners .....what? I will start at a point in the video with the info. listen for at least 5 minutes ...interesting to some I bet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p10m0Jdk8tc&feature=youtu.be&t=446

.
 
That's only one efficiency test, and I don't think it can even read to 99.8%. It only matters how many damaging particles are actually in the oil when the engine operates. Particle tests haven't shown everything is so simple as to read the lab efficiency test numbers and call it done. Some highest lab efficiency filters ave produced not so great particle counts. They aren't making all those advanced engines costing billions to develop and putting a poor filter on them. I don't know what the most expensive Hyundai vehicle is, but they come with the same Hyundai filter. Your Ryco should be fine, but so is your Hyundai filter.
 
Originally Posted by 19jacobob93
I have decided to do my next oil change on the GDi Accent to save $200...
I will be sticking with 10w30 Castrol Edge, and decided to grab a Ryco Syntec filter since I'll be saving a fair bit of cash.

So doing my research, the OEM Hyundai (Mann Korea) Filters are only 99.2% efficient @50 microns, whereas the Ryco Syntec is 99.8% efficient @25 microns and is still guaranteed for 15,000km.
To me it seems a no-brainer to go for the Syntec, especially with the amount of soot particles direct injection systems pump into the oil.

I bought the Syntec but I can't help wondering if there's a reason. Researching the whole flow Vs filtration thing returned mixed reviews, but does anyone know if there's a specific reason why the Hyundai filters are so inefficient on paper compared to a good aftermarket alternative?

Another question - Anyone had any experience on how changing your own oil affects a new car warranty? ...

I stick with OEM or close to OEM. Our Kia uses the same filter as the Hyundai and I found out flow rates for the AC Delco PF1127 Ecore were real similar to OEM.
Another filter real similar / almost exact, is the NAPA Proselect 21334.
 
I've read similar things about the OEM Honda filter as well. We here on BITOG love to extoll the virtues of high efficiency filters but perhaps the OEMs know something we don't...?

That being said - While under warranty, I run the OEM filter. The Hyundai filter is high quality and pretty cheap at WM, so I find no reason not to run it.
 
Originally Posted by mclasser
... We here on BITOG love to extoll the virtues of high efficiency filters but perhaps the OEMs know something we don't...?



Ya think? Toyota OEM aren't "high efficiency" either. I asked an engineer at Toyota plant in WVA and he said flow was more important
than super fine filtration. In simple terms....

Changed my view point to only use OEM Oil and Air Filters.
 
Last edited:
"14 to 16% of Hyundai/Kia will get a new engine in their lifetime"

Some documentation for this statement?
 
Originally Posted by mclasser
I've read similar things about the OEM Honda filter as well. We here on BITOG love to extoll the virtues of high efficiency filters but perhaps the OEMs know something we don't...?

That being said - While under warranty, I run the OEM filter. The Hyundai filter is high quality and pretty cheap at WM, so I find no reason not to run it.


Fram built some of Honda filters and still may. Shhhhhhhh.........they have had the classic low end cardboard/fiber end caps.


Originally Posted by Farnsworth
That's only one efficiency test, and I don't think it can even read to 99.8%. It only matters how many damaging particles are actually in the oil when the engine operates. Particle tests haven't shown everything is so simple as to read the lab efficiency test numbers and call it done. Some highest lab efficiency filters ave produced not so great particle counts. They aren't making all those advanced engines costing billions to develop and putting a poor filter on them. I don't know what the most expensive Hyundai vehicle is, but they come with the same Hyundai filter. Your Ryco should be fine, but so is your Hyundai filter.



Hyundai can't even fix their broad spectrum engine issues in 10 years and you put full faith in their choice of filtering engineering? I sure don't. And I am a Hyundai fan, but not one of their engineering Fanboys. I want better engineering from them and I hold them to account. They have come a long way in recent years.

Hyundai GDI turbos I have found make a lot of soot with their questionable OEM tunes. I want to filter some of that soot out with a synthetic filter, not a swiss cheese paper filter. I think my timing chain likes my choice too. But that is just my opinion, you can do what you want, as you are.

So many warranty worriers in the USA, when filter choice is a 110% non issue with a M-MWA, I am proof the Act works as planned. Now Hyundai Canada you have to worry. They will use every way they can to screw you out of a warranty claim if they find a window.

.
 
Originally Posted by Mainia

Hyundai GDI turbos I have found make a lot of soot with their questionable OEM tunes. I want to filter some of that soot out with a synthetic filter, not a swiss cheese paper filter. I think my timing chain likes my choice too. But that is just my opinion, you can do what you want, as you are.

And the particle size of the soot is what?
And how does that compare to filter efficiency?
Asking for a friend.
 
Some of the Japanese automakers use really low efficiency oil filters. They put emphasis on clean engine components at assembly, high efficiency intake air filtration, and clean engine performance.

Lower eff usually means higher capacity and lower flow restriction. Hence, providing a longer filter change interval.

Some even have a FCI that's 2x as long as the OCI. Yes -- leaving the filter on for 2 oil changes.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Mainia
Originally Posted by mclasser
I've read similar things about the OEM Honda filter as well. We here on BITOG love to extoll the virtues of high efficiency filters but perhaps the OEMs know something we don't...?

That being said - While under warranty, I run the OEM filter. The Hyundai filter is high quality and pretty cheap at WM, so I find no reason not to run it.


Fram built some of Honda filters and still may. Shhhhhhhh.........they have had the classic low end cardboard/fiber end caps.


Originally Posted by Farnsworth
That's only one efficiency test, and I don't think it can even read to 99.8%. It only matters how many damaging particles are actually in the oil when the engine operates. Particle tests haven't shown everything is so simple as to read the lab efficiency test numbers and call it done. Some highest lab efficiency filters ave produced not so great particle counts. They aren't making all those advanced engines costing billions to develop and putting a poor filter on them. I don't know what the most expensive Hyundai vehicle is, but they come with the same Hyundai filter. Your Ryco should be fine, but so is your Hyundai filter.



Hyundai can't even fix their broad spectrum engine issues in 10 years and you put full faith in their choice of filtering engineering? I sure don't. And I am a Hyundai fan, but not one of their engineering Fanboys. I want better engineering from them and I hold them to account. They have come a long way in recent years.

Hyundai GDI turbos I have found make a lot of soot with their questionable OEM tunes. I want to filter some of that soot out with a synthetic filter, not a swiss cheese paper filter. I think my timing chain likes my choice too. But that is just my opinion, you can do what you want, as you are.

So many warranty worriers in the USA, when filter choice is a 110% non issue with a M-MWA, I am proof the Act works as planned. Now Hyundai Canada you have to worry. They will use every way they can to screw you out of a warranty claim if they find a window.

.

If they have had some engines problems that doesn't mean they also put a low efficiency filter on it. Cellulose would the material for best soot removal as the soot can actually be retained in the porous fiber, synthetic is something like fishing line, nothing goes into it. You have to depend on the gaps to stop particles with synthetic fibers.
 
Originally Posted by Mainia
Hyundai has a questionable OEM filter, "a swiss cheese" filter because they need to open up flow. But for some reason, weight and quality of manufacturing seems to trump actual low micron filtering performance by some people. I get it, better safe with the OEM filter as far as warranty. But in the USA we have the Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act, so we can use any filter speced for the car.

I had one in a 2013 Elantra GT at 14,000 miles. That was a piston to cylinder wall issue that was caught by me because the debris takes out the lifters and you get the Hyundai tick of death sound. That was on a motor that was not on the BS crank debris list they were hiding behind. I was running Mobil 1 and Fram Ultras at 3,000-3,500 change intervals because of my wife's short tripping in Minnesota winters. Hyundai wanted to void my warranty because of the Fram Ultra. Within i second after that was said in a vague way I might add. I said "you can't void my warranty by US law, The Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act says I have the right to use any filter I want as long as it was speced for that car." NOTHING was ever said after those words where spoke by me.


There have been many Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act discussions in this forum about this in the past. After the dust settled, it was shown that a car company can deny warranty IF they determined the aftermarket part was the actual cause of the failure.

So in the case of an oil filter that caused an engine related failure, Hyundai would say they were not going to cover the warranty, and instead tell you to contact the filter manufacturer to make a warranty claim. Now if a car company says (for example) that they weren't going to cover a blown out differential under warranty because of the aftermarket oil filter, then that's obviously wrong. Or if they denied warranty of a failed water pump on the engine because of the aftermarket oil filter, again obviously wrong.
 
Originally Posted by Gebo
Originally Posted by mclasser
... We here on BITOG love to extoll the virtues of high efficiency filters but perhaps the OEMs know something we don't...?

Ya think? Toyota OEM aren't "high efficiency" either. I asked an engineer at Toyota plant in WVA and he said flow was more important
than super fine filtration. In simple terms....

Changed my view point to only use OEM Oil and Air Filters.


Lots of people don't understand how engine oiling systems and positive displacement oil pumps work (including the guy you spoke to at the Toyota plant).

Lots of people also don't know or understand how high efficiency oil filters can actually flow better then lower efficiency oil filters. And don't understand that the engine's oiling system is approx 15 times more flow restrictive than the average oil filter.

Engine oiling systems are not like the water system in a house where a more restrictive filter in the system will decrease flow volume. For some reason, people believe that an oil filter that has a maximum of 2~3 PSI more of flow restriction at max oil pump flow output is going to 'blow-up' and engine, lol.
 
Originally Posted by DudeNiceRide
Lower eff usually means higher capacity and lower flow restriction. Hence, providing a longer filter change interval.


Maybe sometimes ... but there are lots of full synthetic media oil filters that have much higher efficiency, lower flow restriction and much higher holding capacity than cheaper cellulose or blend media filters. Total media flow area is another factor that plays an important roll in all of this.
 
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