Awful sound after valve adjustment.

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With the crank timing mark where it needs to be, lightly pull up on the exhaust side of the camchain (I'm not familiar with the specific timing marks on a 636, but they are all the same idea), and install the camchain onto the exhaust cam sprocket per your manual so the marks are in the correct position. I usually hold the camchain onto the sprockets with a ziptie through a hole in the cam sporcket, and around the camchain. I can see your cam sprockets do not have such holes, so I'd try a longer ziptie around the entire cam sprocket and over the top of the camchain.

Then count the 28 pins and install the camchain on the intake cam and set that cam into the journals in the head. I'd try getting a ziptie around the intake cam sprocket and camchain to hold it in position too, until the cam journal holders are installed per the specs. Tighten those down evenly along the length of the camshaft. If that is done correctly, the slack side of the camchain run should now be on the tensioner side.

MAKE SURE all the timing marks are still correct.

Then install the tensioner, cut the zipties, and turn it over by hand a few times to see if all timing marks still line up as they should. If they do, button it up and try starting it.
 
Thanks for all the help guys, im going to start tearing it down (again) today I'll let you know how it goes. And R1jake a little bit of advice if I may, mark clearly where the timing chain was on on the camshafts before you remove them so you don't have to go through what im going though. Besides that it's really not so bad to do. And I will try that forum, thanks.
 
Sucess!!! Thanks for the help guys, I just did everything over buttoned it up and now it sounds and runs great. I still have no idea what caused the noise, I did nothing different with the tensioner this time around, installed it just as the manual says this time and the first time. Anyway just glad it's running good, thanks again.
 
It's good to see that you fixed the problem. I will never understand why Kawasaki went to that type of valvetrain system. One of the reasons I have kept my old ZX11 is it is so easy to adjust the valves on it. If a valve requires adjustment, simply slide rocker arm out of the way and replace shim/puck on top of valve stem with the needed size.
 
Originally Posted by ZX11Rebel
It's good to see that you fixed the problem. I will never understand why Kawasaki went to that type of valvetrain system. One of the reasons I have kept my old ZX11 is it is so easy to adjust the valves on it. If a valve requires adjustment, simply slide rocker arm out of the way and replace shim/puck on top of valve stem with the needed size.


Packaging and valve control at higher RPM. The 636 was designed with the main goal being saving weight, by making everything more compact. And it revs much higher. The ZX-11 ( I had a D model back in the day) is like a supertanker in comparison. Lots of room for the ZX-11 valvetrain when shaving every gram of weight isn't the main concern.
 
Originally Posted by dunlop0078
Sucess!!! Thanks for the help guys, I just did everything over buttoned it up and now it sounds and runs great. I still have no idea what caused the noise, I did nothing different with the tensioner this time around, installed it just as the manual says this time and the first time. Anyway just glad it's running good, thanks again.


I suspect the camchain run from the exhaust cam to the crank initially had just a bit of excess slack. At any rate, congrats on getting it back together and running as it should.
 
I supect that COST had more to due with using a shim and bucket system rather "finger" followers. In fact Kawasaki recently went back to "finger" followers on the ZX10R. Article in CW July 2019 explains why.
 
Both of our S1000RR's use finger followers. It's a lighter and more compact system than the rocker arm system used on the ZX-11.

The ZX-11 had a great system for it's intended use and application. With the added benefit of easier servicing.
 
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