Wheel bearing grease discussion

Here's some real world for you. I've owned 20 83-93 5.0L fox body mustangs over the years and put over a million miles on them collectively. I used to run with a crowd of 5.0L drag racers (for 15+ years.) I knew dozens of Mustang and "Ford" guys that would own nothing but Fords. We were all car guys ...and girls. I don't remember one single wheel bearing failure or one single U-joint failure on anyone's Ford vehicle. Ford used to put top quality bearings in everything. For the 1996 model year Ford started using bearings made in Mexico and elsewhere in every part of the car. Bearings immediately began failing. It was common for a 1996 mustang to go through 5 or more transmissions under warranty as Borg Warner was moved to Mexico and became Tremec Transmission. I knew guys that had these problems and several of us worked in different Ford service departments and I saw and heard the stories. I had a 1999 Mustang GT. My last. The differential carrier bearings made a racket from day one and never quit. The throwout bearing exploded 50 miles from home and I had to drive it without using the clutch to make it home. One of the front wheel bearing ASSEMBLIES went out. They had started using these "wheel bearing assemblies" that were probably Mexican or Chinese. Who knows what kind of grease went in them.
Here's the point... Ford never had problems in the old days with good bearings and the antique "Special Moly EP" as ford called their grease. As others mentioned, Valvoline has made a version for decades. I still have a mostly full beautiful white, gold leaf and silver leaf tub from 1992 because I only used it once back when I was young and energetic and repacked two hubs for good measure after turning a set of front rotors (the fox bodies had small brakes and we used to regularly make them glow while street racing.) But the Moly EP never let any of us down.
I'm getting at this: You have a bearing issue, not a grease issue. The bearing is the failure point these days. Look for Japanese or German bearings. I have a complete set of Japanese, German and American bearings and races new in boxes to fix every location in that 99 Mustang rear end. I never used them, and probably never will because the 1992 5.0L coupe I still have (same 8.8" as the 99) has a high mileage rear end that is as good as the day it rolled out of the factory. The only way possible you'll need more than Ford Moly EP is if you descend that imaginary 10 mile hill while hauling 10,000 pounds... riding the brakes the whole way... In which case I say go for the more temperature resistant Synthetic. But I bet the Moly EP will still lubricate better in 99.9% of cases. And just so you know, The Moly EP is a light consistency. Not a thick mucky grease like so many. Try it. You'll like it. And remember, a Tapered Roller bearing in a 1987 Ford truck is basically identical to a 2020 model. Its old technology.
 
To add, for all the years i handled wheel bearing warranty for our company, i have never seen one fail because of inadequate grease. Not one.
 
Thank youall for all the replies. I have learned a lot and I enjoyed examining grease a bit closer.
What I learned is that normal grease really is the best for wheel bearings.
Also I thank everyone for all the personal experiences.
I guess now I just have to choose between using some of the 30 gallon barrel that I have access to for free or buying some from my favorite brand. Either way it sounds like I wont go wrong.

Does anyone have any tips for an amateur on packing bearings?
 
Originally Posted by P10crew
clinebarger said:
Timken GR224C

^ this is what I've been using for many many years as well. Can't get it locally so I have stock piled it from summit with other orders. I get tubs and tubes for trailer axles.



Trailers beat the snot out of bearings & Moly greases seem to be a death sentence for 3500# Dexter Axle wheel bearings. I maintain 3 utility trailers & 2 car haulers, The Timken grease works best.
 
^ 100% that's why I hoard it CLine. A dude from dexter turned me on to the timkin grease many moons ago and have been using it ever since.
 
Originally Posted by ChadHubbard
Why are trailers hard on bearings? I was not aware fo that?


Because tire diameter is usually quite small and everyone loves to pull them 80mph down the freeway...
 
Originally Posted by ChadHubbard
Why are trailers hard on bearings? I was not aware fo that?


and lack of suspension and heavy loads
 
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Timken GR224C is what I've always used. Clean the bearings & hub real well & Pack the bearings. Replace the grease seals as needed. Snug the nut a few times to seat the bearings then back off @ 1/8 turn.

Most pack the hub & cap with grease...Like the grease is going to jump back in the bearing
lol.gif


Procedure is more important than the grease in my opinion, Running the bearings too tight & Too much Negative Camber is what kills serviceable tapered front wheel bearings. Twin I-Beam Fords are known for excessive negative camber as the coil springs collapse & ball joints wear.

The best advice IMO.
 
Originally Posted by Zahndkile


I would like to discuss grease qualities and application.
I don't want to restrict the discussion to those greases I just want to keep it scientific.


If you really do, then here it is. I have to do this on every machine I design or spec out and work very closely with OEM's including Timken, SKF, XOM and many others. ( that's why I have to stay vendor neutral) The selection process doesn't change.

The lubricant is specified ( base, thickener and additives) based on the load (axial and radial) combined with the specific operating conditions for that piece of equipment. Anything else is just an endless "less filling- tastes great" discussion that will end nowhere.

So first get the bearing data ( material, hardness, finish, contact angle, number/type of media, clearance) along with ISO fit for the shaft and races on the vehicle combined with the design running tolerance.

Second- get the vehicle ( application) specifics in terms of bend moments, RPM, estimated load ranges (axial and radial, temps etc.)

Then add any possible environmentals ( mud holes, road salts and so forth) that will interact with the assembly.

Then you can estimate an L-10 life and determine the lubrication requirements ( type, quantity, frequency) a proper lubricant must have in your application.( go to SKF or a few others and play with the application calculators and stuff- good learning)

Lastly,monitoring in actual usage will allow you to further dial in your lubrication requirements based on your actual conditions.

At that point any grease that meets the requirements of the application will deliver acceptable performance regardless of the name on the tube.

Granted a bit truncated but that's the actual science and process to develop lubrication specifications on the front end of any machine made.
 
Timken, Valvoline, Amsoil, Red Line - I used all of these with great results. I don't care for Mobil 1 as they not only melt in the grease guns but in the U and ball joints.
 
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