Soldering steel?

[buck91]

Looking for thoughts on soldering steel. I have a few different applications but have yet to get anything to stick, regardless of how long I apply heat with my soldering iron.

1. Stainless steel cables. Think bicycle brake and shifter cables. I would LOVE to solder my ends instead of using a crimp cap to keep them from fraying. I've tried solder iron for many minutes as well as a propane torch. Both with and without flux. The solder simply won't stick.

2. Spring. A little specific, this is the steel spring on a Surefire P60 xenon lamp module. Basically I am trying to solder a 5mm yuji high cri LED in place of the xenon bulb. Same as above, using the soldering iron the solder just won't stick to the steel.

Now, I have a "ok" soldering iron that has worked well for basic electronic work for a few years now. Its a Radio Shack brand 40w "pencil" style unit. DO I just need more watts? Based on my experience with the torch I think its not that simple...

 

[kschachn]

Stainless steels are difficult to solder due to the presence of a chromium oxide layer (that's primarily what makes it "stainless"). You need a flux that is appropriate for the material. This requirement also applies for plain steels.

Silver soldering is a better choice.

 

[Donald]

My Dad use to "silver solder" things a long time ago. Also called brazing.

similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/Supplying-De...er+solder&qid=1578414219&sr=8-15

nothing so do with soldering items made of silver.

No soldering iron. Torch only.

 

[Kestas]

40W seems low for this job. There are a number of things to consider for a good solder job:

- The parts must come up to temperature before solder can flow and stick. This is difficult for parts with a large heat sink or with an underpowered soldering tool.

- The parts must be clean and grease-free, including finger oils.

- Flux helps tremendously. Most electrical solder has flux in the wire.

- Oxide on the gun tip needs to be removed before using it to solder.

I restore old radios. I have trouble with large heat sinks in the chassis, even with my 100W/140W soldering gun. Sometimes the thin connecting points can give me fits if a number of wires are attached.

I have successfully soldered cable ends on my bicycle before they fray.

 

[ragtoplvr]

hydrochloric acid is a good flux for stainless and nickel steel. Wash off with water.

silver solder is simply amazing.

Rod

 

[buck91]

Hmmm, I have 96/4 silver-bearing solder. Was using 60/40 rosin-core solder. Would that do it? I suppose its worth a try. If not would the larger iron be enough? Neither of these applications are large heat sinks, I would think.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by buck91
Hmmm, I have 96/4 silver-bearing solder. Was using 60/40 rosin-core solder. Would that do it? I suppose its worth a try. If not would the larger iron be enough? Neither of these applications are large heat sinks, I would think.

No, that is a low-temperature lead free solder used in plumbing applications. "Silver solder" or brazing alloy melts at a much higher temperature.

 

[toneydoc]

Don't think the 40watt iron will get enough heat to do the job

 

[ragtoplvr]

a soldering iron like this

https://americanbeautytools.com/soldering-iron-3138/14/features

will give you enough heat.

When searching be sure to use "american beauty soldering iron", just american beauty will lead to a lot of interesting sites, some you probably should not be looking at.

100 years ago they thought that was a great name for solder irons and pasta. Who knew then.

Rod

 

[Fitter30]

Harris soldering product chart

https://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/~/media/Files/PDF/Requested%20Resources/FillerMetalSelectionChart.pdf
Have used their products for years. Make sure every thing is clean do not touch any soldering surface with bare fingers ( the oil) and if possible tin first.

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by buck91
1. Stainless steel cables. Think bicycle brake and shifter cables. I would LOVE to solder my ends instead of using a crimp cap to keep them from fraying. I've tried solder iron for many minutes as well as a propane torch. Both with and without flux. The solder simply won't stick.

 

[Imp4]

Originally Posted by maxdustington
Originally Posted by buck91
1. Stainless steel cables. Think bicycle brake and shifter cables. I would LOVE to solder my ends instead of using a crimp cap to keep them from fraying. I've tried solder iron for many minutes as well as a propane torch. Both with and without flux. The solder simply won't stick.


I'm not sure which part of the video I like the most, the flaming block of wood in one hand, the lit propane torch he's holding between his knees, or him using his folded over t-shirt to grab the hot solder....
What a maroon...

 

[Traction]

I would just dip the ends in epoxy glue.

 

[JLawrence08648]

Silver solder with acid flux

 

[kschachn]

Spam bot above promoting equipment. Thread isn't even about welding.