0W16 instead of 0w20?

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Originally Posted by StarCaller
Quote
fact, chains last longest with 30 viscosity oil
why would that be?
the higher the viscosity, the higher the longevity ?
how about using a 0w-40?
better or worse than a 30 ?

For reducing the wear in the timing chain, HTHS has no role, which governs the hydrodynamic lubrication. It is boundary lubrication in the valvetrain and timing chain, and that is related to the base-oil viscosity instead. Some 0W-20 and 5W-20 oils will do better than 5W-30 and even 0W-40 because they have a higher base-oil viscosity. See my spreadsheet.

Estimated base-oil viscosity (BO DV150) and VII content of selected oils
 
Ok, now what are we trying to solve here...is this a life threating issue or an engine is going to explode..??

2 roads diverged in the woods, and I took the road less traveled....
banana2.gif
 
GF-6B - The attributes of GF-6B include the following:

Not backwards compatible with older engines
Better durability to mitigate LSPI
Better fuel economy, as measured by Sequence VIF
Fuel economy grade of SAE 0W-16
3-2.6 mPa.s HTHS
 
Yes it will be harmful, 0w16 is used in engine with variable volume oil pump, if yours call for 0w20 you should stick to 0w20 or heavier.

0w16 is good for blending thick oil however, if you have 0w40 left over you can blend in some 0w16 to make it 0w20 or 0w30.
 
if you like to switch from 20 ... Less harm and/or most likely even better results moving up to 30 than down to 16.
 
Originally Posted by Gokhan
Originally Posted by Rmay635703
Honda has specd their own green oil for years, it is much thinner than 0w20

Was the Honda Green Oil an unofficial SAE 0W-8? Was it even labeled at 0W-5? Wasn't it only only allowed for the Honda Insight and Honda Civic Hybrid?
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I think these experimental Honda oils caused a lot of wear and engine failures though.

https://www.insightcentral.net/threads/honda-green-oil.25375/
https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f50/new-oil-honda-24697/


If you were in Japan and had an Earth Dreams engine you got Hondas own green oil, it was back specd to many Honda platforms including the Insight.
 
Thanks for the helpful responses guys.

I wanted to try it out because Wally didn't seem to have anymore 0w20 supertech in stock for in-store pickup(I'm a cheapie) but have some 0w16. And for only $14.88, figured why not right? Maybe I'll just wait or get the 5w20
 
Can you order the Havoline Pro DS 0w20? That's a great oil at a great price to boot. Order online and pickup in store or they might have it already.
 
Originally Posted by Mter00s
... Maybe I'll just wait or get the 5w20
The 5W-20 will be just fine, especially with warmer weather arriving.
 
Originally Posted by AZjeff
Originally Posted by ecotourist
Unless Toyota has back specified it for that engine, I wouldn't. .


Why not? The car in question is a Honda Civic, who cares what Toyota thinks.
smirk2.gif


You got me there! In my defense I think of Honda and Toyota as interchangeable, low to medium cost, well engineered, highly reliable Japanese cars. And yes I've had both - several in fact. They're interchangeable, low to medium cost, well engineered, highly reliable Japanese cars.
 
Originally Posted by Mter00s
Thanks for the helpful responses guys.

I wanted to try it out because Wally didn't seem to have anymore 0w20 supertech in stock for in-store pickup(I'm a cheapie) but have some 0w16. And for only $14.88, figured why not right? Maybe I'll just wait or get the 5w20

Wait for Wally's to restock. Your vehicle will live a week or two longer without the new oil. Or, spend five dollars more on Magnatec or Quaker State.Ultimate.
 
Originally Posted by Mter00s
Thanks for the helpful responses guys.

I wanted to try it out because Wally didn't seem to have anymore 0w20 supertech in stock for in-store pickup(I'm a cheapie) but have some 0w16. And for only $14.88, figured why not right? Maybe I'll just wait or get the 5w20


You can use it. Just buy a qt of M1 0W40 FS and sub that in to the sump.

But that 1 qt may cost you 8 bucks!

What would you have that 0W16?
 
I'd personally rather a 0W16, which is nearly a monograde over an uber high VII 0W20, for reasons that I've explained previously.
 
Originally Posted by Shannow
I'd personally rather a 0W16, which is nearly a monograde over an uber high VII 0W20, for reasons that I've explained previously.

SAE 0W-16 oils on the market are not necessarily monograde-like. Here is some data:

Code
Oil HTHS base-oil viscosity at 150 °C VII content



M1 AFE 0W-16 2.3 cP 1.8 cP 3.9%

M1 AFE 0W-20 2.7 cP 2.0 cP 4.6%

M1 EP 0W-20 2.7 cP 2.1 cP 3.8%



PP 0W-16 2.3 cP 1.8 cP 3.3%

PP 0W-20 2.7 cP 2.0 cP 4.2%



TGMO 0W-20 2.6 cP 1.6 cP 8.7%



VAS 0W-16 2.35 cP 2.2 cP 0.64%

VAS 0W-20 2.66 cP 2.3 cP 2.1%

Estimated base-oil viscosity (BO DV150) and VII content of selected oils
 
I think you could safely run 0w-16 in this circumstance:
-Winter months where ambient temp is lower
-Only short trips (nothing longer than 30-45 min)
-Disciplined enough to keep revs under 3k

The KV100 of 0-16 is still within the 20 grade range, but as someone else has mentioned here, the HTHS is lower. That is the problem. In my perfect scenario above, you don't see the oil temps high enough to allow for bearing temps that would make HTHS viscosity relevant. If these are your driving habits to a T, give it a try next winter. Your MPG will improve, perhaps by an amount too small to notice. Personally, I usually drive for economy but don't shy away from higher revs to get the oil warm enough to burn off fuel/water. Therefore I couldn't run a 16 grade.
 
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