EA888 how many go by the 10k mile factory recommended OCI...

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Originally Posted by wemay
...and if so, do you do a mid-OCI filter change (at 5K mi) since it's so easy being topside?

My plan is to go 10K on oil and filter. This usually ends up being in the 9k+ range when i can find a convenient time and not risk going over.

I ask because the Euro Indy shop near me advises everyone to go 5k. He is a well respected shop/tuner.

I ended up doing my own service because it 'only' cost me $65.
Dealer charges $100
Indy charges $90


Stay with 10K. I see your using the correct 508.00 oil. With that certification, VW recommends 18k I'm Europe. Of course that's on better quality fuel. However on my Current 9k OCI, my oil is still golden brown...Shockingly! Like how a normal car looks after 6K. IMO, a 5K OCI is a waste of money. Now, I could see going a shirt 5K OCI on full SAP oil to reduce amount of carbon and contaminants.
 
Originally Posted by Vercingetorix
09 GTI 187,000 miles. Oil changed every 5,000, filter every 10,000. Used topside oil extractor and mostly 0w40 Mobil 1, recently migrated to Castrol Edge. Recently had the intake manifold replaced for the third time. First two were covered under warranty, so I am not sure if the intake valves were cleaned or not. Pictures from the third time.
[Linked Image]



You should change to 504.00 or 5w-30 or 0w-30 mid-saps at worst. If you could find a low SAPs that would even be better and maybe even use 93octane for awhile. That's a ton of carbon. That's how all my friends VWs look on full SAPS oil.
 
I am running both my VWs on 10k OCIs. I did a recent UOA which indicated the oil could have gone longer in my Passat, and it was just the dealer Castrol. Too frequent changing of the full SAPS oils may actually make carbon build up worse, not better.

Link to UOA:

Passat UOA
 
Originally Posted by KCJeep
I am running both my VWs on 10k OCIs. I did a recent UOA which indicated the oil could have gone longer in my Passat, and it was just the dealer Castrol. Too frequent changing of the full SAPS oils may actually make carbon build up worse, not better.

Link to UOA:

Passat UOA



Thanks for that report! I wouldn't expect anything less from the N/A VR6. I'm curious as to how the castrol holds up in turbocharged applications. I'm currently running the castrol in mine as well (see signature) and will post a UOA next January when it has its oil change.
 
I'm gonna do 5k oil & filter changes with Castrol Euro 0W-40 in my '19 Golf R, despite the new recommendation for 0W-30 504.00. I'm just not comfortable stretching to 10k on a relatively tiny motor with a big blower and making so much power (292 hp).
 
Originally Posted by TheIceStormof06
Originally Posted by Vercingetorix
09 GTI 187,000 miles. Oil changed every 5,000, filter every 10,000. Used topside oil extractor and mostly 0w40 Mobil 1, recently migrated to Castrol Edge. Recently had the intake manifold replaced for the third time. First two were covered under warranty, so I am not sure if the intake valves were cleaned or not. Pictures from the third time.
[Linked Image]



You should change to 504.00 or 5w-30 or 0w-30 mid-saps at worst. If you could find a low SAPs that would even be better and maybe even use 93octane for awhile. That's a ton of carbon. That's how all my friends VWs look on full SAPS oil.



THat picture is all the evidence we need - block of your EGR and modify your PCV pan-e-vac. There is no good reason to ingest your own waste, wether youu're a car or a person. Taking your waste and forcing it into your inlet is pollution for cars, certifiable for humans. Either way its a bad thing.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
9 out of 10 can only treat the disease from the outside - not fix it internally


EGR can be switched off using a smartphone. A baffled air/oil separator and catch can only need hose clamps.
It's not in need of an internal fix, only rearranging of certain govt. imposed band-aids.
Carb cleaner into a boost pipe between the turbo and TB will get the gunk off the port/throat/bowl/valves.

The problem is mixing hot dry soot and cooler, damp emulsion of oil and water because it forms a sticky paste that coats everything it touches, as is shown in the picture.
 
The only evidence presented was that this is what my intakes looked like after 187,000 miles. Manifold broke the flapper valves. My gut feeling is that my intakes were never cleaned before this. The car never had a blockage related misfire. Knowing the absolutely incompetent warranty work done by all three local VW dealers over the years, I doubt they would clean my intakes unless I was paying for it. They did not even install my injectors correctly the last time my intake was replaced under warranty. Car has always had Shell premium fuel. I will continue with 0w40 Castrol or Mobil because both my other cars can run it. I will wait and see on the catch can, personally I do not think they help. My experiment is this: run the car until either the intake manifold craps out again, or until I get a misfire code caused by blocked intakes. Blocked intakes means I will consider a catch can. I do not think either will be a problem for the remainder of the cars life. Car has the latest PCV valve installed as well. Pretty sure no EGR is installed and therefore can't be removed.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Olas
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
9 out of 10 can only treat the disease from the outside - not fix it internally


EGR can be switched off using a smartphone. A baffled air/oil separator and catch can only need hose clamps.


No it can't. There is no EGR valve. The EGR is accomplished with valve timing (overlap).

A catch can only makes you sleep better at night, but doesn't reduce intake valve buildup.
 
There is a reason so many Saab B205/235 engines failed. and it's got alot to do with a 15,000kms (almost 10k-mile) factory service interval.

Change every 5-7,000kms with a quality synthetic (+ drain and refill the oil cooler) and funnily enough the sludging issues go away…

Regards
Jordan
 
Originally Posted by TheIceStormof06
Originally Posted by wemay
...and if so, do you do a mid-OCI filter change (at 5K mi) since it's so easy being topside?

My plan is to go 10K on oil and filter. This usually ends up being in the 9k+ range when i can find a convenient time and not risk going over.

I ask because the Euro Indy shop near me advises everyone to go 5k. He is a well respected shop/tuner.

I ended up doing my own service because it 'only' cost me $65.
Dealer charges $100
Indy charges $90


Stay with 10K. I see your using the correct 508.00 oil. With that certification, VW recommends 18k I'm Europe. Of course that's on better quality fuel. However on my Current 9k OCI, my oil is still golden brown...Shockingly! Like how a normal car looks after 6K. IMO, a 5K OCI is a waste of money. Now, I could see going a shirt 5K OCI on full SAP oil to reduce amount of carbon and contaminants.

18k miles in Europe is not a fixed interval. it is for flexible service intervals, so it is UP TO 18,000 miles (30,000 km). It uses the oil temperature sensor among other sensors and there is an algorithm used to determine the oil change interval. Shorter driving distances with colder oil temperatures will result in shorter oil change intervals.
 
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