Caliper piston boot
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gathermewool
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Boots don't need lubrication.
Silicon spray will keep boots nice and soft!
On rubber parts , ALWAYS silicone grease or spray, never petroleum based as the latter can and will cause swelling and eventual failure.
Originally Posted by painfx
What do you guys use to lube the caliper piston's boot with? Silicone like 3M or the purple stuff from Permatex?
Yes!
What do you guys use to lube the caliper piston's boot with? Silicone like 3M or the purple stuff from Permatex?
Yes!
Originally Posted by Boomer
On rubber parts , ALWAYS silicone grease or spray, never petroleum based as the latter can and will cause swelling and eventual failure.
Unless its neoprene.
On rubber parts , ALWAYS silicone grease or spray, never petroleum based as the latter can and will cause swelling and eventual failure.
Unless its neoprene.
As has been said, boots do not need lubrication. You can use brake fluid as a lubricant to slide the boot in place so it does not tear.
Originally Posted by Donald
As has been said, boots do not need lubrication. You can use brake fluid as a lubricant to slide the boot in place so it does not tear.
How do you prevent the caliper piston to not seize and the rubber boot not rotting?
As has been said, boots do not need lubrication. You can use brake fluid as a lubricant to slide the boot in place so it does not tear.
How do you prevent the caliper piston to not seize and the rubber boot not rotting?
Toyota Rubber Grease is compatible with glycol base brake fluids.
Originally Posted by painfx
What do you guys use to lube the caliper piston's boot with? Silicone like 3M or the purple stuff from Permatex?
I presume the brake piston has been removed from the caliper because the boot was old or torn and needed to be replaced.. If that's not the case, disregard the following. You need to slide the new boot over the piston until the boot locks into the seal groove. I lube the piston very lightly with Sil-Glyde before I slide the boot over it and then lube the piston again before installing it into the caliper. If you are asking about conditioning the outside of the boot that's not necessary and may do more harm than good.
What do you guys use to lube the caliper piston's boot with? Silicone like 3M or the purple stuff from Permatex?
I presume the brake piston has been removed from the caliper because the boot was old or torn and needed to be replaced.. If that's not the case, disregard the following. You need to slide the new boot over the piston until the boot locks into the seal groove. I lube the piston very lightly with Sil-Glyde before I slide the boot over it and then lube the piston again before installing it into the caliper. If you are asking about conditioning the outside of the boot that's not necessary and may do more harm than good.
Originally Posted by painfx
Awesome. Thanks for the responses.
I guess there is no way to prevent it, but only replace the caliper when it fails..
Boot failure does not mean you need a new caliper right away. If the boot tears the exposed part of the brake piston will over time show signs of corrosion. This is not a prob;em as long as the pads wear and the piston keeps coming out farter and farther. When it's time to replace the pads and you push the brake piston back in that's when you mess up the brake piston seal because you force the corroded piston back in. If the brake piston boot is torn, you need to rebuild the caliper before you install new pads.
1. remove the piston and clean it. If too corroded replace it. Usually they are not very expensive.
2.. Replace the brake piston seal. An inexpensive part.
3. Replace the brake piston boot. Also inexpensive. A caliper rebuild kit comes with seal and boot.
4. Push the brake piston back into the caliper. For rear brakes you will need a proper piston reset tool or you can get creative. The brake tool kit is maybe $50 but you can also rent one from your local auot parts store.
5.. Install new pads, shims etc
6. Bleed brakes. install speed bleeders and use a vacuum or pressure bleeder or ask a friend to help.
If that's too much work you can just buy a rebuilt ot new caliper but where's the fun in that? And I have come up with one product that may prolong the life of the brake piston boot. I don't see why 303 Aerospace Protectant would not extend the leife of the boot somewhat. It's a pretty effective protectant for plastic and synthetic and natural rubber.
Awesome. Thanks for the responses.
I guess there is no way to prevent it, but only replace the caliper when it fails..
Boot failure does not mean you need a new caliper right away. If the boot tears the exposed part of the brake piston will over time show signs of corrosion. This is not a prob;em as long as the pads wear and the piston keeps coming out farter and farther. When it's time to replace the pads and you push the brake piston back in that's when you mess up the brake piston seal because you force the corroded piston back in. If the brake piston boot is torn, you need to rebuild the caliper before you install new pads.
1. remove the piston and clean it. If too corroded replace it. Usually they are not very expensive.
2.. Replace the brake piston seal. An inexpensive part.
3. Replace the brake piston boot. Also inexpensive. A caliper rebuild kit comes with seal and boot.
4. Push the brake piston back into the caliper. For rear brakes you will need a proper piston reset tool or you can get creative. The brake tool kit is maybe $50 but you can also rent one from your local auot parts store.
5.. Install new pads, shims etc
6. Bleed brakes. install speed bleeders and use a vacuum or pressure bleeder or ask a friend to help.
If that's too much work you can just buy a rebuilt ot new caliper but where's the fun in that? And I have come up with one product that may prolong the life of the brake piston boot. I don't see why 303 Aerospace Protectant would not extend the leife of the boot somewhat. It's a pretty effective protectant for plastic and synthetic and natural rubber.
Originally Posted by vavavroom
Originally Posted by painfx
Awesome. Thanks for the responses.
I guess there is no way to prevent it, but only replace the caliper when it fails..
Boot failure does not mean you need a new caliper right away. If the boot tears the exposed part of the brake piston will over time show signs of corrosion. This is not a prob;em as long as the pads wear and the piston keeps coming out farter and farther. When it's time to replace the pads and you push the brake piston back in that's when you mess up the brake piston seal because you force the corroded piston back in. If the brake piston boot is torn, you need to rebuild the caliper before you install new pads.
1. remove the piston and clean it. If too corroded replace it. Usually they are not very expensive.
2.. Replace the brake piston seal. An inexpensive part.
3. Replace the brake piston boot. Also inexpensive. A caliper rebuild kit comes with seal and boot.
4. Push the brake piston back into the caliper. For rear brakes you will need a proper piston reset tool or you can get creative. The brake tool kit is maybe $50 but you can also rent one from your local auot parts store.
5.. Install new pads, shims etc
6. Bleed brakes. install speed bleeders and use a vacuum or pressure bleeder or ask a friend to help.
If that's too much work you can just buy a rebuilt ot new caliper but where's the fun in that? And I have come up with one product that may prolong the life of the brake piston boot. I don't see why 303 Aerospace Protectant would not extend the leife of the boot somewhat. It's a pretty effective protectant for plastic and synthetic and natural rubber.
I think I will just grease the caliper's pistons lightly with the Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant. To prevent rust. I think using the 303 Aerospace Protectant won't do much since it will be in a dusty/dirty environment.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU
Originally Posted by painfx
Awesome. Thanks for the responses.
I guess there is no way to prevent it, but only replace the caliper when it fails..
Boot failure does not mean you need a new caliper right away. If the boot tears the exposed part of the brake piston will over time show signs of corrosion. This is not a prob;em as long as the pads wear and the piston keeps coming out farter and farther. When it's time to replace the pads and you push the brake piston back in that's when you mess up the brake piston seal because you force the corroded piston back in. If the brake piston boot is torn, you need to rebuild the caliper before you install new pads.
1. remove the piston and clean it. If too corroded replace it. Usually they are not very expensive.
2.. Replace the brake piston seal. An inexpensive part.
3. Replace the brake piston boot. Also inexpensive. A caliper rebuild kit comes with seal and boot.
4. Push the brake piston back into the caliper. For rear brakes you will need a proper piston reset tool or you can get creative. The brake tool kit is maybe $50 but you can also rent one from your local auot parts store.
5.. Install new pads, shims etc
6. Bleed brakes. install speed bleeders and use a vacuum or pressure bleeder or ask a friend to help.
If that's too much work you can just buy a rebuilt ot new caliper but where's the fun in that? And I have come up with one product that may prolong the life of the brake piston boot. I don't see why 303 Aerospace Protectant would not extend the leife of the boot somewhat. It's a pretty effective protectant for plastic and synthetic and natural rubber.
I think I will just grease the caliper's pistons lightly with the Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant. To prevent rust. I think using the 303 Aerospace Protectant won't do much since it will be in a dusty/dirty environment.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU
Originally Posted by painfx
Originally Posted by vavavroom
Originally Posted by painfx
Awesome. Thanks for the responses.
I guess there is no way to prevent it, but only replace the caliper when it fails..
Boot failure does not mean you need a new caliper right away. If the boot tears the exposed part of the brake piston will over time show signs of corrosion. This is not a prob;em as long as the pads wear and the piston keeps coming out farter and farther. When it's time to replace the pads and you push the brake piston back in that's when you mess up the brake piston seal because you force the corroded piston back in. If the brake piston boot is torn, you need to rebuild the caliper before you install new pads.
1. remove the piston and clean it. If too corroded replace it. Usually they are not very expensive.
2.. Replace the brake piston seal. An inexpensive part.
3. Replace the brake piston boot. Also inexpensive. A caliper rebuild kit comes with seal and boot.
4. Push the brake piston back into the caliper. For rear brakes you will need a proper piston reset tool or you can get creative. The brake tool kit is maybe $50 but you can also rent one from your local auot parts store.
5.. Install new pads, shims etc
6. Bleed brakes. install speed bleeders and use a vacuum or pressure bleeder or ask a friend to help.
If that's too much work you can just buy a rebuilt ot new caliper but where's the fun in that? And I have come up with one product that may prolong the life of the brake piston boot. I don't see why 303 Aerospace Protectant would not extend the leife of the boot somewhat. It's a pretty effective protectant for plastic and synthetic and natural rubber.
I think I will just grease the caliper's pistons lightly with the Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant. To prevent rust. I think using the 303 Aerospace Protectant won't do much since it will be in a dusty/dirty environment.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU
I don't think the Permatex product mentioned above is compatible with DOT 3/4 brake fluid and NOT intended to lubricate caliper piston seals.
Originally Posted by vavavroom
Originally Posted by painfx
Awesome. Thanks for the responses.
I guess there is no way to prevent it, but only replace the caliper when it fails..
Boot failure does not mean you need a new caliper right away. If the boot tears the exposed part of the brake piston will over time show signs of corrosion. This is not a prob;em as long as the pads wear and the piston keeps coming out farter and farther. When it's time to replace the pads and you push the brake piston back in that's when you mess up the brake piston seal because you force the corroded piston back in. If the brake piston boot is torn, you need to rebuild the caliper before you install new pads.
1. remove the piston and clean it. If too corroded replace it. Usually they are not very expensive.
2.. Replace the brake piston seal. An inexpensive part.
3. Replace the brake piston boot. Also inexpensive. A caliper rebuild kit comes with seal and boot.
4. Push the brake piston back into the caliper. For rear brakes you will need a proper piston reset tool or you can get creative. The brake tool kit is maybe $50 but you can also rent one from your local auot parts store.
5.. Install new pads, shims etc
6. Bleed brakes. install speed bleeders and use a vacuum or pressure bleeder or ask a friend to help.
If that's too much work you can just buy a rebuilt ot new caliper but where's the fun in that? And I have come up with one product that may prolong the life of the brake piston boot. I don't see why 303 Aerospace Protectant would not extend the leife of the boot somewhat. It's a pretty effective protectant for plastic and synthetic and natural rubber.
I think I will just grease the caliper's pistons lightly with the Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant. To prevent rust. I think using the 303 Aerospace Protectant won't do much since it will be in a dusty/dirty environment.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU
I don't think the Permatex product mentioned above is compatible with DOT 3/4 brake fluid and NOT intended to lubricate caliper piston seals.
Permatex 24125 technical data sheet
It's ok to use on brake pistons. I used it on slider pins and didn't care for it. It hardened quickly and caused the slider pins to stick. It works great on pad backing plates because it does not wash out. For brake pistons I have not found anything better than Sil-Glyde.
It's ok to use on brake pistons. I used it on slider pins and didn't care for it. It hardened quickly and caused the slider pins to stick. It works great on pad backing plates because it does not wash out. For brake pistons I have not found anything better than Sil-Glyde.
Originally Posted by vavavroom
Permatex 24125 technical data sheet
It's ok to use on brake pistons. I used it on slider pins and didn't care for it. It hardened quickly and caused the slider pins to stick. It works great on pad backing plates because it does not wash out. For brake pistons I have not found anything better than Sil-Glyde.
I find that Sil-Glyde gums up. There was a thread regarding Sil-Glyde is not great. And was recommended Silicone grease instead like 3M silicone paste.
But putting silicone on the piston's face, it will wash off easier vs the purple grease from Permatex, no? Also, the Permatex has a higher heat range.
Permatex 24125 technical data sheet
It's ok to use on brake pistons. I used it on slider pins and didn't care for it. It hardened quickly and caused the slider pins to stick. It works great on pad backing plates because it does not wash out. For brake pistons I have not found anything better than Sil-Glyde.
I find that Sil-Glyde gums up. There was a thread regarding Sil-Glyde is not great. And was recommended Silicone grease instead like 3M silicone paste.
But putting silicone on the piston's face, it will wash off easier vs the purple grease from Permatex, no? Also, the Permatex has a higher heat range.
For the piston boot, use pure Silicone spray. It will condition the boot like you want it to, but it won't gum up and attract dirt like conventional grease/lube.
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