Well, something easy has turned into an absolute nightmare. I had a prior thread that I started that had me replacing shocks on the rear of the Mazda. One side had no issues, the other side, the bottom bolt hole got stripped. I tried to use a tap set M12-1.25 and it doesn't even seem to be catching. Am I doing this correctly? The inside of it looks incredibly stripped. Any thoughts here or is this a completely lost cause? I think the bolt hole is on the subframe? The diagram looks like an extremely long piece that the bolt hole is part of.
Stripped Bolt hole for rear shock
- Thread starter sky
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If its stripped the correct size tap for the original bolt isn't going to do anything. Helicoil or time sert time. just get one the same size as the original bolt.
Edit this one will do the job, yep its Chinese but so is Helicoil brand now. At least it comes with the correct size drill, they work okay.
That control arm look a little long in the tooth, this repair will hold up a long time but next time it needs shocks consider replacing it if feasible.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSZXGIF/ref=psdc_15709091_t1_B000CMHVLC
Edit this one will do the job, yep its Chinese but so is Helicoil brand now. At least it comes with the correct size drill, they work okay.
That control arm look a little long in the tooth, this repair will hold up a long time but next time it needs shocks consider replacing it if feasible.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSZXGIF/ref=psdc_15709091_t1_B000CMHVLC
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Originally Posted by Trav
If its stripped the correct size tap for the original bolt isn't going to do anything. Helicoil or time sert time. just get one the same size as the original bolt.
God, I must be an idiot. I was using the exact same size as the bolt hole for the tap and I thought that would have fixed it. No wonder it was just spinning. So for time sert, I just get the same size as the original bolt, just making sure. Thanks
If its stripped the correct size tap for the original bolt isn't going to do anything. Helicoil or time sert time. just get one the same size as the original bolt.
God, I must be an idiot. I was using the exact same size as the bolt hole for the tap and I thought that would have fixed it. No wonder it was just spinning. So for time sert, I just get the same size as the original bolt, just making sure. Thanks
Yes, that is correct. Time Serts are pricey compared to the helicoil type I posted, the coil will work fine. Use plenty of lube (oil) when drilling a tapping, clean the hole well with brake cleaner and use red loctite on the outside of the coil only.
On oil pans and other bolts that are frequently removed in an open hole a Time Sert is better but for this one the coil is more than good enough.
On oil pans and other bolts that are frequently removed in an open hole a Time Sert is better but for this one the coil is more than good enough.
For these, I should never use power tools, right? It's going to be the first time using a coil. At the risk of being an idiot, I'm going to ask for clarification on how to use it so i don't screw it up.
Do I do anything with the drill bit or should I go straight to using the tap? I should just probably do some youtubing on this. I'm assuming I used the drill first and the the tap?
Do I do anything with the drill bit or should I go straight to using the tap? I should just probably do some youtubing on this. I'm assuming I used the drill first and the the tap?
The hole must be the correct size specified for the tap. If it is too large then the resulting threads will strip out under load, and if the hole is to small you'll break the tap - which can be a bad scene. Whatever the tap is there will be a specified drill size.
Those internal nuts are welded on. If the weld breaks the nut will spin and act sort of like it's stripped. Make sure it's not that.
Always drill first using the matching drill. You can use a power drill. But don't power the tap in, use a hand tap holder.
Always drill first using the matching drill. You can use a power drill. But don't power the tap in, use a hand tap holder.
Originally Posted by sky
For these, I should never use power tools, right? It's going to be the first time using a coil. At the risk of being an idiot, I'm going to ask for clarification on how to use it so i don't screw it up.
Do I do anything with the drill bit or should I go straight to using the tap? I should just probably do some youtubing on this. I'm assuming I used the drill first and the the tap?
I recommend a Time-sert.
https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-Thread-Repair-1212/dp/B001ZS2BJ4
Be sure to also get the tap guide. There are many videos on youtube on how to do one. It is a bit nerve-racking, but the product works well.
For these, I should never use power tools, right? It's going to be the first time using a coil. At the risk of being an idiot, I'm going to ask for clarification on how to use it so i don't screw it up.
Do I do anything with the drill bit or should I go straight to using the tap? I should just probably do some youtubing on this. I'm assuming I used the drill first and the the tap?
I recommend a Time-sert.
https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-Thread-Repair-1212/dp/B001ZS2BJ4
Be sure to also get the tap guide. There are many videos on youtube on how to do one. It is a bit nerve-racking, but the product works well.
Don't use a Helicoil on that, use a time-sert. That's a high-load area and I wouldn't trust a Helicoil to hold up. Yes, the time-sert kit will cost you a good chunk of change, but it's a lot less than replacing that lateral arm!
Don't get down on yourself, I do a LOT of these at work, and they go one of two ways: Simple as pie or train wreck. It sounds like you have a good handle on things. Just take your time and it'll be good as new.
Don't get down on yourself, I do a LOT of these at work, and they go one of two ways: Simple as pie or train wreck. It sounds like you have a good handle on things. Just take your time and it'll be good as new.
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Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by sky
For these, I should never use power tools, right? It's going to be the first time using a coil. At the risk of being an idiot, I'm going to ask for clarification on how to use it so i don't screw it up.
Do I do anything with the drill bit or should I go straight to using the tap? I should just probably do some youtubing on this. I'm assuming I used the drill first and the the tap?
I recommend a Time-sert.
https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-Thread-Repair-1212/dp/B001ZS2BJ4
Be sure to also get the tap guide. There are many videos on youtube on how to do one. It is a bit nerve-racking, but the product works well.
What do you mean by the tap guide? (Just tell me what to buy!)
And holy smokes! $100 for that. Yea.... it's probably cheaper than replacing that lateral arm.
Originally Posted by sky
For these, I should never use power tools, right? It's going to be the first time using a coil. At the risk of being an idiot, I'm going to ask for clarification on how to use it so i don't screw it up.
Do I do anything with the drill bit or should I go straight to using the tap? I should just probably do some youtubing on this. I'm assuming I used the drill first and the the tap?
I recommend a Time-sert.
https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-Metric-Thread-Repair-1212/dp/B001ZS2BJ4
Be sure to also get the tap guide. There are many videos on youtube on how to do one. It is a bit nerve-racking, but the product works well.
What do you mean by the tap guide? (Just tell me what to buy!)
And holy smokes! $100 for that. Yea.... it's probably cheaper than replacing that lateral arm.
Why no helicoil? You say that with such authority I have to ask. I never had a heli coil pull out or fail to torque to spec when properly inserted, the bolt actually forces the coil thread tighter.
This particular application does not require countersink of a time sert, in fact it may not be desirable as the nut is behind thin sheet metal.
Quote
Our frank advice based on experience of about 40 years is that there is not a stronger thread at original size than a wire thread insert of correct length and fitted properly. However, there are some uses for thin walled thread inserts where we would not recommend helicoil type inserts but Time-Serts. If a thread is "static" i.e. not likely to be done up and undone more than a few times in its lifetime, we would always say a helicoil type thread is the strongest option. However, for threads that are used over and over again like sparkplug or sump plug threads a helicoil type insert tends to work its way out of the parent hole over time and a Time-Sert is the more permanent repair.
https://www.crosstools.com.au/helicoil-type-inserts-technical-study-of-strength-and-pullout.html
This mirrors exactly what I posted. The kit I linked to contains the drill and tap and inserts and is plenty good and strong and will not pull out.
Originally Posted by trav
On oil pans and other bolts that are frequently removed in an open hole a Time Sert is better but for this one the coil is more than good enough.
Edit: OP you will need a tap wrench with any of these tools, post a picture of the hole and its surroundings, there are different types, one may be better suited to the job than others.
This particular application does not require countersink of a time sert, in fact it may not be desirable as the nut is behind thin sheet metal.
Quote
Our frank advice based on experience of about 40 years is that there is not a stronger thread at original size than a wire thread insert of correct length and fitted properly. However, there are some uses for thin walled thread inserts where we would not recommend helicoil type inserts but Time-Serts. If a thread is "static" i.e. not likely to be done up and undone more than a few times in its lifetime, we would always say a helicoil type thread is the strongest option. However, for threads that are used over and over again like sparkplug or sump plug threads a helicoil type insert tends to work its way out of the parent hole over time and a Time-Sert is the more permanent repair.
https://www.crosstools.com.au/helicoil-type-inserts-technical-study-of-strength-and-pullout.html
This mirrors exactly what I posted. The kit I linked to contains the drill and tap and inserts and is plenty good and strong and will not pull out.
Originally Posted by trav
On oil pans and other bolts that are frequently removed in an open hole a Time Sert is better but for this one the coil is more than good enough.
Edit: OP you will need a tap wrench with any of these tools, post a picture of the hole and its surroundings, there are different types, one may be better suited to the job than others.
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Also true if he can get to the back side of it, but he said its in the frame so he may not have access to it.
Originally Posted by benjy
can you put a bolt thru + use a nut on it!
Originally Posted by Trav
Also true if he can get to the back side of it, but he said its in the frame so he may not have access to it.
I would still need to put a bolt through this, right? So the order is bolt goes through the bottom of the shock into the bolt hole. On the other side of the bolt hole, there's about maybe enough of a space to put my finger in to feel the end of the bolt to see that it was going through. I don't think there's enough space. If I were to try this, I'd just have to drill it out and do the exact same thing because the bolt right now cannot go through the hole because of the the stripped threads. Right? Or i might be missing something. Or are you saying to put a smaller bolt through and use a nut to avoid the threads all together?
can you put a bolt thru + use a nut on it!
Originally Posted by Trav
Also true if he can get to the back side of it, but he said its in the frame so he may not have access to it.
I would still need to put a bolt through this, right? So the order is bolt goes through the bottom of the shock into the bolt hole. On the other side of the bolt hole, there's about maybe enough of a space to put my finger in to feel the end of the bolt to see that it was going through. I don't think there's enough space. If I were to try this, I'd just have to drill it out and do the exact same thing because the bolt right now cannot go through the hole because of the the stripped threads. Right? Or i might be missing something. Or are you saying to put a smaller bolt through and use a nut to avoid the threads all together?
The hole is stripped so you can just use a longer bolt of the the same size, the trick is getting a nut and washer on the other side of it and holding it so you can tighten it.
You can give it a shot, get a 10.9 or 12.9 grade bolt. You can get these at Ace hardware or Home Depot.
Do you have another picture of this thing so we can see the location?
Edit: I should mention (before someone accuses me of advocating a hack fix) that this is not the preferred way of repairing this but it will work okay in this application if you can do it.
You can give it a shot, get a 10.9 or 12.9 grade bolt. You can get these at Ace hardware or Home Depot.
Do you have another picture of this thing so we can see the location?
Edit: I should mention (before someone accuses me of advocating a hack fix) that this is not the preferred way of repairing this but it will work okay in this application if you can do it.
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Originally Posted by Trav
The hole is stripped so you can just use a longer bolt of the the same size, the trick is getting a nut and washer on the other side of it and holding it so you can tighten it.
You can give it a shot, get a 10.9 or 12.9 grade bolt. You can get these at Ace hardware or Home Depot.
Do you have another picture of this thing so we can see the location?
Edit: I should mention (before someone accuses me of advocating a hack fix) that this is not the preferred way of repairing this but it will work okay in this application if you can do it.
I think that's where I'm confused, the hole isn't completely stripped so I can't get a bolt through because the bolt will have threads and the threads will eventually meet the stripped threads in the hole and will get stuck(and subsequently spin). I need to be able to turn the bolt to get it all the way through to put the nut and washer on, right?
I'll get more pictures tomorrow. At this point and with Amazon shipping taking 2+ weeks, I'm not in a rush. As this is in the frame/steel part of the vehicle, will the kit work? Maybe I'm skeptical because I don't think it'll be able to drill through some of this hard material. But to be fair... I did strip both sides of this.
The hole is stripped so you can just use a longer bolt of the the same size, the trick is getting a nut and washer on the other side of it and holding it so you can tighten it.
You can give it a shot, get a 10.9 or 12.9 grade bolt. You can get these at Ace hardware or Home Depot.
Do you have another picture of this thing so we can see the location?
Edit: I should mention (before someone accuses me of advocating a hack fix) that this is not the preferred way of repairing this but it will work okay in this application if you can do it.
I think that's where I'm confused, the hole isn't completely stripped so I can't get a bolt through because the bolt will have threads and the threads will eventually meet the stripped threads in the hole and will get stuck(and subsequently spin). I need to be able to turn the bolt to get it all the way through to put the nut and washer on, right?
I'll get more pictures tomorrow. At this point and with Amazon shipping taking 2+ weeks, I'm not in a rush. As this is in the frame/steel part of the vehicle, will the kit work? Maybe I'm skeptical because I don't think it'll be able to drill through some of this hard material. But to be fair... I did strip both sides of this.
Originally Posted by Trav
The hole is stripped so you can just use a longer bolt of the the same size, the trick is getting a nut and washer on the other side of it and holding it so you can tighten it.
You can give it a shot, get a 10.9 or 12.9 grade bolt. You can get these at Ace hardware or Home Depot.
Do you have another picture of this thing so we can see the location?
Edit: I should mention (before someone accuses me of advocating a hack fix) that this is not the preferred way of repairing this but it will work okay in this application if you can do it.
I was going to suggest that. Or Trav what do you think of welding the correct thread bolt on the other side of the hole and use a longer bolt? If you have access. Bolt it up then mig the bolt all around the base.
The hole is stripped so you can just use a longer bolt of the the same size, the trick is getting a nut and washer on the other side of it and holding it so you can tighten it.
You can give it a shot, get a 10.9 or 12.9 grade bolt. You can get these at Ace hardware or Home Depot.
Do you have another picture of this thing so we can see the location?
Edit: I should mention (before someone accuses me of advocating a hack fix) that this is not the preferred way of repairing this but it will work okay in this application if you can do it.
I was going to suggest that. Or Trav what do you think of welding the correct thread bolt on the other side of the hole and use a longer bolt? If you have access. Bolt it up then mig the bolt all around the base.
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Yes, get some more pictures. If you were near me I would do it for you, you buy the to go coffee. 20 min job at the most.
Is the original bolt m12x1.25?
Is the original bolt m12x1.25?
Remove the existing threads, get a longer bolt and use a chassis nut/nylon lock nut with washer to tighten it up. If you have a welder you could also tack weld the it to the control arm. Make sure the suspension is at ride height when you tighten it.
The correct way would be either to repair the existing threads with a time sert or replace that lower control arm. What I suggested will get you out of your jamb for the time being.
The correct way would be either to repair the existing threads with a time sert or replace that lower control arm. What I suggested will get you out of your jamb for the time being.
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Not to be a **** but whats is with these time serts? They are no stronger than heli coils in fact they are in many cases weaker at 4 times the price.
They are the best thing for things that need to removed many times over the life of the product eg spark plugs, oil pan drain bolts and the like. They are specified for spark plugs and some aluminum applications because the insert is also aluminum and the heat transfer is the same for the insert as the base metal, aluminum expands much more than steel and consequently the coil could loosen, the plug heat range is also not effected.
This aluminum expansion is the reason valves in an aluminum head tend to get more clearance when at operating temps not tighter like an iron head.
They are not a replacement for a heli coil in every application, just an additional tool to do a proper repair.
They are the best thing for things that need to removed many times over the life of the product eg spark plugs, oil pan drain bolts and the like. They are specified for spark plugs and some aluminum applications because the insert is also aluminum and the heat transfer is the same for the insert as the base metal, aluminum expands much more than steel and consequently the coil could loosen, the plug heat range is also not effected.
This aluminum expansion is the reason valves in an aluminum head tend to get more clearance when at operating temps not tighter like an iron head.
They are not a replacement for a heli coil in every application, just an additional tool to do a proper repair.
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