Cicking Noise While Turning Right Only

[gathermewool]

Vehicle: 14 FXT with ~ 78k miles

Location: Seems to be coming from the front right

Duration: began soon after I replaced brakes and rotors at all four corners around six months ago - figured I'd mention the brakes, just in case.

Occurance: > 180* turning to the right while accelerating, but it doesn't always occur under the same circumstances. I've turned the wheel hard-over and accelerated and heard NO clicking, for instance. I NEVER hear any clicking on the highway or at anything other than low speeds. The clicking has NOT gotten worse in the past six months.

Note: the boots on all of the CV shafts look great, no tears.

It sounds like a typical CV shaft going bad, but I'm not willing to spend that kind of cash if it's not 100%. Thoughts?

 

[Dave9]

Turn the wheel right, vehicle lifted off that corner on the control arm, and rotate the wheel by hand wiggling it back and forth rapidly to see if there's play in the CV joint. Compare to the left side if in doubt.

If it didn't happen immediately after doing the brakes, I wouldn't suspect them except to make sure things like the bolts haven't come loose. Some applications even recommend threadlock to reduce the chance of that happening.

 

[CharBaby]

Check the right side front brake dust shield.

 

[FT92]

had that happen several years ago , turning right sounded like it was coming from the right side but mechanic said left side..most of the weight is transferred to the left side making the noise...he must have been right because after changing the left drive axle noise was gone...just what happened to me

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Similar noise 15 years ago. That was the last time I had a hubcap car and found a small rock bouncing around inside it.

 

[CharBaby]

I have experienced so many different types of noises/sounds coming from the bent or moved out of place, backing plates/dust shields alone that, it would make one think that the noise was something entirely different.

I've had backing plates/dust shields make... squeal, grind, thump, click, etc.
All causing me to think the noise was, worn brakes, wheel bearings, strut or stab bar link, halfshaft, respectively.
Or even the sound of a stone kicking around under a wheel cover.

Not saying that the noise isn't something serious or even coming from the opposite side of the vehicle but, check the easiest stuff first.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Just did mine a couple months ago. Reverse the car with some juice with the steering wheel turned to lock - both ways.

There is a Severe angle on the axle and a lot of orbiting on the joints due to the vehicle lift, and it's likely undderated bits. This all together equals worn out early..

Wife said OURS started acting up and being audible after I did the brakes too. No brakes issues. I pulled the wheels twice to check and even did a disassembly, in front of the suspicious Wife, to assure her the brakes are good to go .... er ... Stop.

Only thing to check is ensure the axle(s) are fully seated in the differential housing. They just pop in, no retainer other tan a spring clip on the axle INSIDE the diff. They can pop out maybe 3/16" and you barely notice.

 

[Randy_R]

Couple years ago I had a click that turned out to be a front drum brake that didn't self adjust. It was hard to tell where it was coming from, front or back.

 

[CharBaby]

Front drum? Must be on your 65 Tempest. Very cool(My Cousin Vinny).

 

[Randy_R]

Originally Posted by Char Baby
Front drum? Must be on your 65 Tempest. Very cool(My Cousin Vinny).

That was a 63, I think, with a transaxle. I got motivated to convert to disc. Got the kit, just gotta install. Marisa is a pretty girl. Maybe I'll watch it again.

 

[Duffyjr]

Just throwing this out there. 99 LeSaber only clicked when turning right most of the time, sounded like it was coming from front left wheel, took it to mech and it turned out the starter drive gear came loose or broke so every time I turned right momentum would throw it into the fly wheel.

 

[gathermewool]

Originally Posted by Duffyjr
Just throwing this out there. 99 LeSaber only clicked when turning right most of the time, took it to mech and it turned out the starter drive gear came loose or broke so every time I turned right momentum would throw it into the fly wheel.


Can't respond to all now, but this post caught my eye. Our starter just started making noises within this timeframe. The whirring is louder while starting, but it always starts at normal speed. I'll have to pay attention going forward to whether there's any overrun.

I've actually got two windows of Subaruonlineparts open,one with an axle for $332 and a starter for $380. Yuck...

 

[Duffyjr]

Originally Posted by gathermewool
Originally Posted by Duffyjr
Just throwing this out there. 99 LeSaber only clicked when turning right most of the time, took it to mech and it turned out the starter drive gear came loose or broke so every time I turned right momentum would throw it into the fly wheel.


Can't respond to all now, but this post caught my eye. Our starter just started making noises within this timeframe. The whirring is louder while starting, but it always starts at normal speed. I'll have to pay attention going forward to whether there's any overrun.

Mime sounded normal when starting, I would of never guessed the starter.

 

[gathermewool]

Originally Posted by Duffyjr
Originally Posted by gathermewool
Originally Posted by Duffyjr
Just throwing this out there. 99 LeSaber only clicked when turning right most of the time, took it to mech and it turned out the starter drive gear came loose or broke so every time I turned right momentum would throw it into the fly wheel.


Can't respond to all now, but this post caught my eye. Our starter just started making noises within this timeframe. The whirring is louder while starting, but it always starts at normal speed. I'll have to pay attention going forward to whether there's any overrun.

Mime sounded normal when starting, I would of never guessed the starter.


Was your mechanic able to tighten the starter or was anything damaged?

 

[Duffyjr]

Originally Posted by gathermewool
Originally Posted by Duffyjr
Originally Posted by gathermewool
Originally Posted by Duffyjr
Just throwing this out there. 99 LeSaber only clicked when turning right most of the time, took it to mech and it turned out the starter drive gear came loose or broke so every time I turned right momentum would throw it into the fly wheel.


Can't respond to all now, but this post caught my eye. Our starter just started making noises within this timeframe. The whirring is louder while starting, but it always starts at normal speed. I'll have to pay attention going forward to whether there's any overrun.

Mime sounded normal when starting, I would of never guessed the starter.


Was your mechanic able to tighten the starter or was anything damaged?

He replaced the starter and said the fly wheel looked ok, it was only doing for a couple days, I always have two vehicles so when something goes wrong with one I drive the other until it's fixed.

 

[Trav]

As others have said check everything on all wheels, wheel bearing hub, shield, abs ring if it uses an external, etc. Its a huge misconception that the CV boots have to be damaged or torn for a joint to fail.
Tripod type inner joints especially can fail due to lube failure, this usually shows up as a vibration or rumble. This usually happens after the vehicle is driven a few miles and the lube gets thrown away from the needle bearing rollers. This can also happen (although less common) with outer joints using ball bearings.
I have done quite a few Subaru (and others) CV axles that had failed and had perfect boots.

 

[gathermewool]

One more quick piece of info:

A little less than four years ago the Foz was in an accident where some kid ran a red light and hit my wife right in the driver's front wheel. I can't find the pics or repair invoice at the moment, but the wheel was collapsed. I know the control arm, strut and wheel were replaced; I assume the axle was replaced as well, but can't recall.

Didn't have much time, but checked the following (test drive to follow later)

1. Starter: I could barely get my hand in there, but was able to grab the motor and verify it was solidly mounted.

2. I reached through the wheel and pushed on the brake dust shield on both fronts.

I'll read the rest of this thread and perform all other checks later. Thanks again!

 

[gathermewool]

Originally Posted by Trav
As others have said check everything on all wheels, wheel bearing hub, shield, abs ring if it uses an external, etc. Its a huge misconception that the CV boots have to be damaged or torn for a joint to fail.
Tripod type inner joints especially can fail due to lube failure, this usually shows up as a vibration or rumble. This usually happens after the vehicle is driven a few miles and the lube gets thrown away from the needle bearing rollers. This can also happen (although less common) with outer joints using ball bearings.
I have done quite a few Subaru (and others) CV axles that had failed and had perfect boots.


Dumb question: if the boot is fine and axle is clicking, it needs to be tossed, right? I.e., it can't be rebuilt.

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted by Randy_R
Originally Posted by Char Baby
Front drum? Must be on your 65 Tempest. Very cool(My Cousin Vinny).

That was a 63, I think, with a transaxle. I got motivated to convert to disc. Got the kit, just gotta install. Marisa is a pretty girl. Maybe I'll watch it again.


You're right!
It's been a long time since I've seen the movie. It's a was fun.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted by gathermewool
Originally Posted by Trav
As others have said check everything on all wheels, wheel bearing hub, shield, abs ring if it uses an external, etc. Its a huge misconception that the CV boots have to be damaged or torn for a joint to fail.
Tripod type inner joints especially can fail due to lube failure, this usually shows up as a vibration or rumble. This usually happens after the vehicle is driven a few miles and the lube gets thrown away from the needle bearing rollers. This can also happen (although less common) with outer joints using ball bearings.
I have done quite a few Subaru (and others) CV axles that had failed and had perfect boots.


Dumb question: if the boot is fine and axle is clicking, it needs to be tossed, right? I.e., it can't be rebuilt.


You can rebuild it if they carry joints for it like this one for example.

https://www.fgpstore.com/product-p/cv joint-colon-uj71ks4.htm

For most Euro stuff I can inner and outer from GKN and a few other OE manufacturers along with OE composite boots. I don't mess with too much Japanese stuff so I don't source them. These are just some examples, inners and outer are no problem.
I use ones from SKF, GKN or Ruville

https://www.gknautomotive.com/en/AftermarketMotorsport/aftermarket/our-products/cv-joints/
https://www.bestpartstore.co.uk/saab/9-3-ys3f/16826/10171-joint-set
https://www.comline.uk.com/VW/JETTA/cv-joints
https://www.euspares.co.uk/parts-catalog/joint-set-10171/bmw