Mazda 3 rear shock top sheered off...

sky

Joined
May 11, 2006
Messages
124
Location
mass
This was pretty scary this morning when I was going to the store. I heard a crazy clunk that wasn't there before and I'm so glad this didn't happen on the highway. The car is a 2010 Mazda 3 up in MA. I'm going to order rear shocks, rear top mounts and rear billows for both sides. Does anyone know what bolt sizes they are? I want to replace those guys as well.

Watching videos, it seems easy enough to replace.

WhatsApp Image 2020-03-24 at 1.09.25 PM.jpeg
 
Stopped driving it immediately and looked around. There aren't any holes or anything I can see. What else should I be looking for? I'm going to put it up on jackstands to check it out when it's a bit warmer. I haven't had a chance to take a look at the other side.
 
Those are studs that are welded to the body. The nuts are 12mm. Use LOTS of penetrant and a little heat if necessary. You really don't want to break a stud.

Also, make sure and buy the updated steel upper mounts, the aluminum originals are the entire issue.
 
Originally Posted by 14Accent
Those are studs that are welded to the body. The nuts are 12mm. Use LOTS of penetrant and a little heat if necessary. You really don't want to break a stud.

Also, make sure and buy the updated steel upper mounts, the aluminum originals are the entire issue.


I purchased ones that were Moog on rockauto. Good to know. Should probably start using some penetrating oil right now. Thanks a bunch!
 
Originally Posted by 14Accent
Those are studs that are welded to the body. The nuts are 12mm. Use LOTS of penetrant and a little heat if necessary. You really don't want to break a stud.

Also, make sure and buy the updated steel upper mounts, the aluminum originals are the entire issue.


Agreed on the studs. This easy job can go south pretty quick if one is not careful.

As far as the aluminum mount, my 06 spent 12 Canadian winters and it is fine, but I treated it with rust proofing oil every once in a while, along with the studs.
 
Just replaced the front struts (quick strut) and A-arms on our 2010 Mazda 3 with Amazon Moog parts.

Metallic front suspension knocking over the bumps went away once the parts were replaced. Sway bar end links were OK.

Parts perform well so far.
 
Start watching South Main Auto videos on Youtube to get some fastener removal tips. He's in upstate NY, so he gets his fair share of rusty, crusty cars and fasteners.
 
This happened to my daughter's 2006 Mazda3 - 3X's
They're reasonably priced, easy to replace and you can do it yourself. As long as the studs are in good shape you're good to go. Just don't over torque'em otherwise you'll crack those mounts at the bolt hole(s).
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by sky
Originally Posted by 14Accent
Those are studs that are welded to the body. The nuts are 12mm. Use LOTS of penetrant and a little heat if necessary. You really don't want to break a stud.

Also, make sure and buy the updated steel upper mounts, the aluminum originals are the entire issue.


I purchased ones that were Moog on rockauto. Good to know. Should probably start using some penetrating oil right now. Thanks a bunch!


Looks like the ones I use at work are Dorman 924-412HP's. They fit just fine and I haven't had any issues with them. I wish I could say that for all Dorman products...
 
Originally Posted by 14Accent


Looks like the ones I use at work are Dorman 924-412HP's. They fit just fine and I haven't had any issues with them. I wish I could say that for all Dorman products...


Yeah, I'm leary of Dorman products too.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by whatnext
Originally Posted by 14Accent


Looks like the ones I use at work are Dorman 924-412HP's. They fit just fine and I haven't had any issues with them. I wish I could say that for all Dorman products...


Yeah, I'm leary of Dorman products too.



Dorman seems to be hit or miss. Some items are reboxed and are good quality. Others, who knows. I bought a track bar for my avalanche it was dorman and made in Taiwan. Excellent and worked great. I don't know who made it, but i think it was a reboxed item.
 
Last edited:
I used the Dorman because it's what I could get straight away. They were no worse than OE and typically I don't like Dorman anything.
 
Pet Peeve of Mine Dept:

"Lots of penetrant"...sure, but remember to wire brush before, during and after applying rust-busters. They need help sometimes.

I used to work with guys who thought P.B.Blaster was instant acting magic juice. Spray and shear.
 
For those close quarters rust cleanings I use the usual ATF / acetone mix with my Dremel tool and a 1" stainless brush in the Chuck. Clean up , soak , rinse and repeat . Maby give it a few day if it doesn't want to come. That's a hard area to to heat too without burning off the paint on both sides of the panel . I'd stick to the the patience and oil routine if it can wait a few days. Otherwise careful use of a tiny torch flame wetting down the surroundings .
 
Well good and bad news. I ordered a full set of rears. I replaced the broken one and everything came out AND went back in without issues. I decided... it's a nice day and I did order the parts for the other side, why not go ahead and do that. Everything came out fine, no issues.

I put tightened the nuts up top, great! then I get to the 17mm giant lower bolt. I line up the shock with the bolt hole and i started to thread it in.... went about 1/2inch in and it started to spin.... and spin... i took it out and.
mad.gif
You could probably guess what happened. Threads were stripped even though this bolt is tapered. I just hope that none of the threads are messed up on the hole side. Side note.... is this the right part number for the bolt?

9YA02120GE


[Linked Image]
 
Last edited:
Back
Top