Using 0w16 to 'thin down' oil viscosity

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Unless you're under warranty and have concerns with that I'd use it just as it is. I had a 1988 Ford Escort for years that recommended 5w30. I used 10w40 in it and when I retired it it had 518K miles on it without a rebuild. Now I own a 1997 Ford, 2002 Ford, 2016 Nissan and run 10w40 in them year around without any problems. Check your owners manual, likely somewhere in it will be a graph showing what weight oils you can use at different temperatures. Some will argue you get better gas mileage with lighter oil but, I am not convinced of that I actually think in some cases the lighter weight oil may cause more friction and increase wear. Since I bought my Nissan Versa about 13 months ago and have tracked approximately 10,500 miles my overall average gas mileage is 47.082 MPG with my worst tank being the first tank I ran through it at 42.345 MPG and my best at 51.167 MPG. My average MPG is 8.082 MPG better than the car's highway EPA rating of 39 MPG and 13.082 MPG better than it's combined rating of 34 MPG.. My worst gas mileage this past winter using the 10w40 and winter blend gasoline was 45.612 MPG. The original factory recommended oil on my '97 is 5w30, on the '02 5w20 (same engine), and 5w30 on the '16.
 
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I would just use the 30 grades as-is. The 5W30 in summer and 10W30 in winter.
An ILSAC 30 grade is not an thick oil and will not cause a problem. Cold winter mornings on a 20 grade is much thicker than a 30 grade at operating temperature.
 
Originally Posted by FordMan59
I actually think in some cases the lighter weight oil may cause more friction and increase wear.


I agree.
 
math says: 0W16 + 5W30 = 2.5W23
Since there are no 2.5W23 specs, I would not mix.
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I sometimes mix a left-over quart or so (same viscosity grade but different brand) in my very old cars. Other than that I don't like to risk it with our newer cars especially when it comes to not just different brands but also the weight and possibility of different base oil, additives, detergents, etc. Maybe reduced effectiveness! idk.

Also there has been many discussions that mixing can impact very low temp performance.
I think shannow had some posts or videos about it.
 
Thanks guys....I was thinking of something like 1 qt. of 0w16....(possibly 1.5).. to 3 or 3.5 qts. of the 30 weight....I'll probably do what Arco says and add a qt. of the 30 wt. at a time to the 20wt....in fact I've done that several times already.

PS SR5: I think you mean to use 5w30 in winter and 10w30 in summer....but maybe you mean your winter (which is my summer) and your summer (which is my winter)..
 
Originally Posted by pbm
Thanks guys....I was thinking of something like 1 qt. of 0w16....(possibly 1.5).. to 3 or 3.5 qts. of the 30 weight....I'll probably do what Arco says and add a qt. of the 30 wt. at a time to the 20wt....in fact I've done that several times already.

PS SR5: I think you mean to use 5w30 in winter and 10w30 in summer....but maybe you mean your winter (which is my summer) and your summer (which is my winter)..

A lot of the earlier posts were purist--i.e. don't mix weights, don't mix brands, no SN with SN+. I've thrown Dexos Harvest King on top of VWB and nothings blown yet. Don't think your plan would hurt a thing.
 
I'd sell the oil in question, and use the grade I want or need, and not try and make it. Been there done that and made a little profit in the process.
 
Originally Posted by csandste
Originally Posted by pbm
Thanks guys....I was thinking of something like 1 qt. of 0w16....(possibly 1.5).. to 3 or 3.5 qts. of the 30 weight....I'll probably do what Arco says and add a qt. of the 30 wt. at a time to the 20wt....in fact I've done that several times already.

PS SR5: I think you mean to use 5w30 in winter and 10w30 in summer....but maybe you mean your winter (which is my summer) and your summer (which is my winter)..

A lot of the earlier posts were purist--i.e. don't mix weights, don't mix brands, no SN with SN+. I've thrown Dexos Harvest King on top of VWB and nothings blown yet. Don't think your plan would hurt a thing.

Who said anything is going to blow, if you mix? Or damage the engine?

All I said is I run the gamit with my GDI pretty strict. No chemistry classes with it. I never suggested anybody or everybody follow my lead.
 
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Originally Posted by csandste

A lot of the earlier posts were purist--i.e. don't mix weights, don't mix brands, no SN with SN+. I've thrown Dexos Harvest King on top of VWB and nothings blown yet. Don't think your plan would hurt a thing.


Very nice and polite way to disagree with different opinions ...
A+++ for that
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I just want to say that this thread is why I like BITOG....different opinions from guys who've been there and done that...at the end of the day I think my engine will outlast my desire to own it....but getting opinions from other car (oil) guys is why I'm here....THANKS...
 
I agree that it won't hurt anything. I just stated what I did on a previous car and on my current ones. When I drove the '88 Escort I used all different brands from major brand names to store branded oil. I usually buy in bulk (several cases) when I catch good sales. If it came time for an oil change and I had 2 qts. of whatever I'd been using in the past changes I didn't throw it away I'd put those 2 qts. in and 2 qts. of whatever brand I was switching to. As I said in my previous post the Escort went 518K miles without a rebuild but it was using quite a bit of oil for the last 100K miles or so. I suspect the rings were worn out but there was no knocking like the bearings were worn out. Since it was using so much oil when I'd change the oil in my better cars I'd pour the burnt oil back in the bottles, set it in my garage and use it for topping off oil in the '88. I'm sure I did this for at least the last 100-150K miles and didn't see much increase in oil consumption. I'd keep an eye on the oil level and when it got 1/2 qt. low I'd go ahead and top it back off rather than waiting for it get a full qt. low. When I parked it with 518K miles the engine still ran fine, the car just needed so much other work done to it that I have chronic back pain and didn't want to spend the time working on it myself and I wasn't going to pay a mechanic $50-100 hr. to work on a car with a 1/2 million miles. Years ago I had a '76 Chrysler that I used as a work car to drive to and from construction sites. It used/leaked a quart of oil about every 300 miles. I did the same thing with it, using burnt oil for topping off oil. When I got rid of it it hadn't had an oil change in over 30K miles and was still running. I wouldn't recommend doing this with a good car and I don't but with an old beater that has no value it works for me.
 
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Originally Posted by pbm


PS SR5: I think you mean to use 5w30 in winter and 10w30 in summer....but maybe you mean your winter (which is my summer) and your summer (which is my winter)..


Sorry, you are correct, 5W30 in your winter and 10W30 in your summer.
I've been working some very long hours.
 
Originally Posted by Jimmy_Russells
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Get a jug of 0w20 or 5W20 and sub in 1 quart per OC. you should be fine.

Problem is many 20 are getting to near 30 grade with D1G2.

Japanese 0W20 are usually real thin, genuine subaru was in the 7's

In the old days we had whale brain oil ATF to add.

That stuff was a super lube.

Poor whales, smarter than us sapiens and ravaged by moronic dopes.


Well that was random
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???

Not random at all. Whatever this new "lingo" you kids are speaking.

This is an oil forum, by the way.

You kids need an education.

ATF was animal fatty ester derived. I ran it some of my cars.

Better than REDLINE.
 
Originally Posted by tig1
Possibly the real problem may be hoarding oil.


Yes, I think that could be correct.
 
Where do you live that has a climate that dictates SAE20? Forget about CAFE and read the SAE Journals - they teach us that viscosity is dictated by climate.

Consider the highest and lowest annual temps you will experience and use that data as the basis of your oil selection.
 
And climate dictates the winter rating, at least for starting purposes. I can buy a 0W-40 all day long if I'm worried about that.
 
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
And climate doesn't dictate V@100C. It used to years ago.


If climate does not dictate viscosity, would you use 0w8 in the Australian outback?
How would you feel about Penrite 40w70 in the Arctic Circle?

You know as well as anybody on this forum that viscosity reduces as temperature increases, so we have no alternative but to select viscosity based on climate.
 
Yes, I would use a 0w-8 in OZ if the engine required it. No on the 70 in the north. That's the problem. People think they need a 40 in their 20 application because they live in the Desert.
 
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