Aftermarket Speakers with Stock Head Unit/Radio - Surprisingly Good

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Even where CCF is effective as a sound blocker such as weather stripping and ear plugs (because in these applications it completely fill voids what would otherwise be open), they are less effective at blocking low frequencies than high. Anyone who's worn ear plugs has experienced this.
 
All the way back you mentioned MB … high density rubber is not all that's in those doors or any other doors meant to control sound. Most anything blocks or decouples sound and vibration better than thin metal … point is why keep piling on that thin, heavy, and expensive stuff when other materials work well with it.
And go to DynaMat's website … they sell these exact combinations for use in motor vehicles … At the time I started they did not … I picked it up from a stereo installer.
Besides, I'd never want a hard surface facing the back of a speaker at home or on the road. In reality … I'd like a layer of open foam over that … but don't want a sponge in the mix …
 
Do you guys think I did the right thing by only adding Dynamat to the outer shell of the door? It's been a while, but I remember reading that adding deadener to the center of large panels is more efficient than the ends or areas where connected to solid structure.

I didn't add nearly enough weight to give my door that luxury car think, but a knuckle knock test showed improvement. I only used half of a two-door kit on ALL four doors.


I haven't ever messed with sealing, because it's just too darned hard. I equate it to being in a pretty well insulated room with the door cracked open and with the stereo cranking in the living room. Have you ever heard the difference between a fully shut door and one that is cracked just a little bit?

With so many things reverberating, reflecting and absorbing multiple frequencies of noise it seems almost impossible to efficiently seal a vehicle. With that said, I've got no problem adding something as simple as deadener judiciously. I think I'll save what's left for the roof.
 
Yes, IMO you're doing a good job. The large flat panels (roof and outer door skins) are the most prone to excessive resonance, so they're the most effective areas to treat. The inner door skin looks well sealed and is convoluted, so I don't think there is much to be gained by adding Dynamat to those parts. Often times people will add products and drive around with the interior uninstalled to see effective their work was and find that it's quieter, but when the interior reinstalled the net reduction in noise is actually very small because the door cards and seats were already blocking those frequencies. It is very easy to reach the point of diminishing returns sound deadening a vehicle.
 
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Second truck one of our engineers took this far …
They wind up extremely quiet … but that's lots of time/money

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The key to getting the best sound when connecting aftermarket speakers with an OEM HU is finding the most efficient speakers. OEM HUs don't put out much power, certainly not like amplified systems do...
 
Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
I've always wondered why factory systems can't use better parts.
If a simple upgrade like this can make such a difference, why couldn't the factory install similar speakers?


Bean counters...
 
Plus for the first year they sound decent … but cheap speakers are like cheap oil filters …
Paper not meant for extended use, LoL
 
4WD, I've seen some like that, but never been in one. My uncle used to be huge into car audio, but he ALWAYS made up for any deadening, blocking and sealing with music turned so 11 all.the.freaking.time. Haha

He drives a ten year-old bone so stock Elantra now! Lol
 
Originally Posted by gathermewool
4WD, I've seen some like that, but never been in one. My uncle used to be huge into car audio, but he ALWAYS made up for any deadening, blocking and sealing with music turned so 11 all.the.freaking.time. Haha

He drives a ten year-old bone so stock Elantra now! Lol


I was big into car audio at one time myself. Not so much anymore for two reasons; one is I'm too old to crawl around under the dash and rear deck to run wires and install other equipment, and two, I lost a good deal of my hearing due to high powered audio systems, and because I used to work on the flight line when I was in the Air Force...
 
Originally Posted by grampi
Originally Posted by gathermewool
4WD, I've seen some like that, but never been in one. My uncle used to be huge into car audio, but he ALWAYS made up for any deadening, blocking and sealing with music turned so 11 all.the.freaking.time. Haha

He drives a ten year-old bone so stock Elantra now! Lol


I was big into car audio at one time myself. Not so much anymore for two reasons; one is I'm too old to crawl around under the dash and rear deck to run wires and install other equipment, and two, I lost a good deal of my hearing due to high powered audio systems, and because I used to work on the flight line when I was in the Air Force...


I can only imagine. Heck, I cracked a rib that took 6-7 weeks to heal a couple of months ago by..coughing! I aggravated the injury over a week ago while trying to break loose the front diff fill plug from beneath the car!
 
Well, the Subaru Kicker upgrade tweeters came in for the front dash and they sound great! With the Kicker tweeter installed on the left side and the stock speakers on the right of the dash I faded left and right a dozen times or so, sampling some Simple Man by Lynyrd Skynyrd, some songs by The Weeknd, and a mix of other Classic Rock and Pop.

Simple Man was the first song and the difference was pronounced. The percussion instruments were almost inaudible through the stock dash speaker, but very tss tut tss tss tut tss tss with the Kicker Tweeter.

Vocals are substantially brighter too. As you can tel from my posts I'm not much of a bright guy.
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I prefer the softer highs that are now coming out of the 3/4" silk tweeters in the Sound Ordnance door speakers, but definitely prefer the Kicker tweeters to the muddy stockers.

I was going to complain that the new vocals were too bright and sss sss sssy, but I think the issue is more the signal from the head unit than the tweeters themselves. I'd still have preferred silk tweeters, but that's more theoretical, since I'm a newbie when it comes to audio. These are just my opinions.

Again, for around $210 all in I'm very pleased with the results.
 
One issue I came across, and wanted to include in its own post was Fitment. The Subaru Kicker upgrade tweeters are 100% plug-and-play electrically (same connector on the tweeter as stock), which means absolutely no cutting of wires whatsoever.

However, the mounting tabs are NOT the same dimensions. I was only able to get one of the two screws to line up, which is likely fine. If I can't find a solution I'll be using either a zip tie for the other side or some double-sided tape.

What's odd, is the Kicker tweeter bracket holes DO line up with two separate square holes that are right next to the stock tapped holes. I'll be researching if there's some sort of tab that fits in there, just like for the door speakers.

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I don't think a base model shopper is expecting sparkling audio sound, so the manufacturer saves money by putting in only adequate speakers... just barely enough to pass as a "stereo." Does it get louder when you turn up the volume? Yup.

Aftermarket speakers are on my project list for the Tacoma.
 
I have 6X8 KICKER CS coaxials in my front and rear doors. An ALPINE POWER PACK provides power to my door speakers. I have a KICKER TC-10 subwoofer behind the seat with an ALPINE amp providing power to it. My head unit is an ALPINE CDE-170.
 
Originally Posted by DGXR
I don't think a base model shopper is expecting sparkling audio sound, so the manufacturer saves money by putting in only adequate speakers... just barely enough to pass as a "stereo." Does it get louder when you turn up the volume? Yup.

Aftermarket speakers are on my project list for the Tacoma.


Absolutely right! I get it.


Originally Posted by BlueOvalFitter
I have 6X8 KICKER CS coaxials in my front and rear doors. An ALPINE POWER PACK provides power to my door speakers. I have a KICKER TC-10 subwoofer behind the seat with an ALPINE amp providing power to it. My head unit is an ALPINE CDE-170.


Very nice. I haven't wired and really installed a sound system since I was in my teens. I'm afraid to cut into wiring now, but might still do something mild like install a head unit. I've only ever had three Alpine head units, so that's what I know. I'll check out what you've got.
 
Great topic and posts here, congrats OP !

I'd found many options to do similar upgrades for very little expenses through many years on various cars.
I think the bang for bucks and simplicity of speaker swaps really make it a sweet project for many and as (I think) stated by others, the surgery of dashboard configuring or changes on some of the modern cars is a bit overwhelming.
Speaker swaps cut to the chase and take what is often the weakest link in the sound system to eventful and obvious benefits for very little investment.

I do agree nicer head units and added power make considerable differences too but if you start anywhere or are a bit intimidated, limited to $80 - $300 or ready to attack an easy DIY project, speakers are the ticket.

My days of selling the good stuff for home and car audio are 35 years back but I was indeed spoiled for a time. I left the retail biz and went toward a different career - Didn't forget to score some Kenwood, Alpine and Boston Acoustics car toys for the company car though. Driving 30k miles a year just in the work vehicle was a lot of music enhancement for sure.
Funny thing is, that's when I discovered talk radio made the days fly by much faster than 55 or 60 three minute songs.
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