2007 Tacoma - Which U-Joints? OEM? Spicer? Moog?

Joined
Jul 8, 2012
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5,176
Location
Dickson, TN.
2007 Tacoma PreRunner V6, TRD Off-Road, 228K.

I have a "clunk" upon accelerating from a dead stop or from low speed (
OEM part is $190 shipped, cheapest I could find, which isn't too prohibitive.

I did replace all 3 U-Joints back in 2012, because one of them started squeaking when driving in reverse only. Went with the Auto Zone Duralast Gold (non-greasable). Haven't had any issues with them.

I figure, while I have the driveshaft out, I'll go ahead and replace the U-Joints also, since the truck had
I called Auto Zone about the U-Joints. They have a few options. ValuCraft (not even a consideration) for $12, Duralast (this one is greasable - I don't think they even offer the Duralast Gold non-greasable any more) for $18, Moog greasable for $26, a Spicer for $24, and another Spicer for $47.

Cheapest OEM I could find are $58 plus shipping. So, my question is, are these $47 Spicer units OEM-equivalent? How are the Moog? Anyone used any of these?
 
I've done a little digging into this as well and it seems Spicer is the way to go. They are the OEM manufacturer in these trucks, make sure to get the greaseable versions. Spicer also made the carrier bearing. Drivetrain America has decent prices on the u-joints and carrier. $70 ish for the carrier from them. Chain parts store products do not last long in these trucks. There are subtle differences between the TRD 4wd and TRD PreRunner, so due diligence is needed for part numbers. I thought I had them handy, but can't locate them. Also make sure to lube the slip joint while apart. Funny as it sounds, alot of Tacoma owners use the Ford Motorcraft product for this.

On my 09 TRD 4wd my u-joints and carrier are getting worn out, but since my truck has a 2" level lift (and soon swapping in a 3rd gen TRD suspension that adds another 1") I've been looking into a solid one-piece driveshaft that several vendors have. Might be something to look into as it seems you possibly have the height to do it. Most prices range in the $500-700 range and while pricey you won't have as many issues down the road.

EDIT: Forgot to mention your "clunk" might just be the slip joint. A worn carrier bearing will usually just cause a vibration.
 
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I bought the Moog ones with the grease fitting on the end caps. Complete PITA with the small tip fitting in them. Its OK but another piece you need to buy and master (its different from a zerk, no retention feature)

If I were to do it again, I would get the Spicer non grease ones. My orignial ones were fine except for one that went dry then waddled itself out. The OEM ones I pulled out had Spicer stamped on them.
 
Rockauto

The "Dana" u-joints On Rockauto look to be Spicer. They say spicer and show it in the pictures if you blow it up. I'd go with those if it was me. On the center support/carrier bearing I would go OEM, the aftermarket units don't hold up well from what I've heard.


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Wow, thanks!

What's interesting is that the Dana (Spicer) u-joint in the photo you showed (the bottom one for $21.89) has the same part no. as the Spicer unit that Auto Zone lists for $47.99:

AB0D68FA-506E-4212-92A9-5A69DA3DA52D.png
 
Originally Posted by Delta
I've done a little digging into this as well and it seems Spicer is the way to go. They are the OEM manufacturer in these trucks, make sure to get the greaseable versions. Spicer also made the carrier bearing. Drivetrain America has decent prices on the u-joints and carrier. $70 ish for the carrier from them. Chain parts store products do not last long in these trucks. There are subtle differences between the TRD 4wd and TRD PreRunner, so due diligence is needed for part numbers. I thought I had them handy, but can't locate them. Also make sure to lube the slip joint while apart. Funny as it sounds, alot of Tacoma owners use the Ford Motorcraft product for this.

On my 09 TRD 4wd my u-joints and carrier are getting worn out, but since my truck has a 2" level lift (and soon swapping in a 3rd gen TRD suspension that adds another 1") I've been looking into a solid one-piece driveshaft that several vendors have. Might be something to look into as it seems you possibly have the height to do it. Most prices range in the $500-700 range and while pricey you won't have as many issues down the road.

EDIT: Forgot to mention your "clunk" might just be the slip joint. A worn carrier bearing will usually just cause a vibration.


Hey, thanks man. From doing some research, it seems like the Spicer model 5002334 is probably the OEM unit. Looks like it's the same P/N for 1995-2012 Tacoma 4WD or PreRunner, as well as a few other Tundras and even T100s.

Hard to believe it can be bought for $63 from Summit Racing when the cheapest I've found OEM from a Toyota online parts "wholesale" dealer is $190 shipped.

Yeah, I don't have any vibration at cruise speed. And I do 90 on the freeway in this truck frequently. I can detect some vibes when I accelerate hard from a dead-stop or standing-start, but assumed it's the torque converter. Maybe not.

Maybe I'll just go on and replace carrier bearing and u-joints. And see if that fixes everything. At least that would tell me for sure if the vibes on acceleration that I mentioned are actually the torque converter.
 
Make sure you mark the drive shaft with paint before you dissassemble it so the splined pieces will go back together the same orientation they are now. the drive shaft is balanced so if you dissassemble it then put it back a different way the balance will be off and cause vibration.
 
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Originally Posted by danez_yoda
Make sure you mark the drive shaft with paint before you dissassemble it so the splined pieces will go back together the same orientation they are now. the drive shaft is balanced so if you dissassemble it then put it back a different way the balance will be off and cause vibration.


+1

I tried to self diagnose a drive train issue and it cost me over $1000. I should have had it properly diagnosed instead of throwing parts at it. I'd have a hard time using non-OEM parts. But that's just me.

OH, for the second time, please mark your driveshaft because no one can rebalance one. At least in SE USA. Ask me how I know. LOL
 
Truck goes "clunk." Owner comes here to talk about buying about $300 of parts before even looking underneath.
 
Originally Posted by john_pifer
Yeah, I don't have any vibration at cruise speed. And I do 90 on the freeway in this truck frequently. I can detect some vibes when I accelerate hard from a dead-stop or standing-start, but assumed it's the torque converter. Maybe not.

Maybe I'll just go on and replace carrier bearing and u-joints. And see if that fixes everything. At least that would tell me for sure if the vibes on acceleration that I mentioned are actually the torque converter.


The torque converter doesn't try locking up until 33-35mph-ish, under certain conditions it'll shutter/vibrate when it goes into lockup. I typically keep my truck in 4 under 45mph so it won't lockup. Vibration under hard accel points to the carrier is most cases. Get up under the truck and see how much play it has up and down. Being 2wd definitely simplifies things on 2nd gens tracking down vibrations.
 
Originally Posted by danez_yoda
Make sure you mark the drive shaft with paint before you dissassemble it so the splined pieces will go back together the same orientation they are now. the drive shaft is balanced so if you dissassemble it then put it back a different way the balance will be off and cause vibration.


I've disassembled it before when I replaced U-Joints the first time.
 
Originally Posted by mk378
Truck goes "clunk." Owner comes here to talk about buying about $300 of parts before even looking underneath.


Thanks for your input, but I already know what it is, as I said. It's the driveshaft center carrier bearing. It's a known failure point on these trucks. As I said, the rubber isolator surrounding the bearing rots out, allowing play, and, the "clunk". I've been under the truck and the rubber is deteriorated. The driveshaft has play.

The driveshaft has to come out for me to replace the center carrier bearing, and the driveshaft has to be separated into its 2 pieces to replace the center carrier bearing, so, with it already out, and taken apart, it makes sense to go on and replace the 3 U-Joints, so I'm not having to pull it again. One of the factory u-joints failed at 101,000 miles. These Duralast Gold u-joints that I put in, at 101,000 miles, now have 127,000 miles. Far more than what the OEM had when one of them failed, prompting me to replace all 3 at that time.
 
Total cost is $150 shipped for 3ea Spicer Life Series u-joints (5-1330-1X) and the Spicer carrier bearing (5002334 - I believe this to be the actual, OEM unit, even though I've found it for 1/3 of the cost from a Toyota dealer).

Just to throw it out there, the driveshaft itself is also Spicer. And I suspect that the original u-joints were Spicer, as well.

Ordered from Summit Racing. I have to say, also, that the gentleman I spoke with was extremely friendly and helpful. Especially under the current circumstances. He said order fulfillment shouldn't be affected by that of which we don't speak, and that he's not aware of significant shipping delays at this time. I should have the parts next week.
 
I always use Spicer or Neapco u joints. Carrier bearing, I "try " to go with OEM when possible.
 
Seems like I recall reading that Dana/Spicer assembled the entire chassis for US Built Tacomas. Makes sense that there would be some of their components in there.
 
Originally Posted by Randol
Seems like I recall reading that Dana/Spicer assembled the entire chassis for US Built Tacomas. Makes sense that there would be some of their components in there.


Welcome to the board!
 
there was a faint "buzzing" vibe when the carrier bearing let go in my tundra. I'd been there for a while I just didn't think anything of it (it doesn't ride like a caddy) until I got underneath and saw the rubber completely torn up. I let a shop do the bearing and 3x moog greasable U-joints. It made a notable difference. Vibes were gone and the driveline felt more taught.
 
We have some of our enlightened posters complain about old posts being resurrected but I changed the oil in the 2006 Tacoma yesterday and while greasing the drive line I noticed lots of grease splatted on the body .What the you know what! I inspect the u joints and found the seals deterorated what garbage Toyotas have become. I ordered 3 u joints and Will replace them.
 
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