Thoughts on redline?

Originally Posted by buster
^true. Now large American/multinational corp. I wonder if Roy Howell and Dave are still the formulators.


Really good question! The formulas appear to be pretty static as far as the white bottle stuff, and we know the black bottle is just rebottles from the parent so not sure how much "formulation" is taking place under the Redline moniker at this point
21.gif
 
This is a Redline safety Data Sheet from 2017, which identified two types of PAO base stocks used in their formulations. They mention Polyolesters POE basestock under environmental disposal noting it is biodegradable.

https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/60710030-SDS.pdf

The newest Redline data sheet does not mention any base-stock combination so was glad ran across this still recent 2017 safety data sheet.
 
My thoughts. It's a good oil, but I wouldn't use it. For my applications I can do just as good with Mobil 1, Pennzoil and others, and save a lot of money by shopping for it wisely.
 
It has a place. Their 0w's are awesome with - 70 flow and flash rates that are above most anything. Using their 0w20 I didn't have the oil usage and consumption that I did with M1 or Pennzoil. Was way more responsive and idle at stoplights was quieter. I had more miles on an engine than most so this too could contribute to a heavier oil running better. Helps keep engines cleaner than anything I know of. Not a fan of their 5w20 but like all the 0w varietals and the 10w60 and 10w30.
 
Think some things that run good on RL 0w20 are worth trying a cheaper 30 synthetic in …
(not a thick vs thin comment … have 0w20 in V8's now)
 
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by buster
^true. Now large American/multinational corp. I wonder if Roy Howell and Dave are still the formulators.


Really good question! The formulas appear to be pretty static as far as the white bottle stuff, and we know the black bottle is just rebottles from the parent so not sure how much "formulation" is taking place under the Redline moniker at this point
21.gif



Oil geeks aside … wonder if the average consumer is really going to know RL to start with … and if putting that name on a middle of the road lube will prove to be a good strategy …
 
RL oil is available in Germany and very well regarded among gear heads and motor oil enthusisats. But it is also one of the the most expensivest oils here. Price is between 20 to 25 Euro per Quart.
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
Think some things that run good on RL 0w20 are worth trying a cheaper 30 synthetic in …
(not a thick vs thin comment … have 0w20 in V8's now)


I'm onto 0w30 mobil 1 right now actually lol. I use the Lubegard biotech in the oil filter and so far it's been okay. Had I lived farther north I think the Redline 0w20 would have shined in startup. So far so good.
 
Filling a new oil filter with a top-tier oil supplement, prior to installation, is interesting. But are it's protection properties better-off beginning it's lubricating job there?..... or filming the entire engine instead... right from the get-go?

Years ago, I believe it was Fram that offered oil filters with High Mileage properties inside it's new oil filters. So you got the concept there probably. But is that concept a proven winner to dispense all the properties outside the filter eventually (or) was it intended to have a percentage of those properties, stay inside the oil filter and dispense over a timeline?
 
Last edited:
The expensive Redline oil is interesting oil . Years ago I ran it for a few years. Give it a try and report back.
 
Ah, see that in your signature now …
That's literally the first M1 I ever scooped up on clearance years ago.
Folks around here were slow to go with 0w's … and I got several jugs really cheap and ran in SBC engines year round …
 
The oil question is the same as always, use what you like and it'll be fine. Is Redline good oil? You bet it is! Is it needed? Absolutely not. There are plenty of oils that will work and you'll never know the difference. So, as always, use what you want and can afford. If you want to try it just for the heck of it, go for it.

Now, having said that, the one thing I can tell you from first hand experience is with their manual trans fluid. I have a Tacoma 5 speed and if you've ever read anything about them or drove one they shift like crap. It was so bad that I was seriously thinking of getting rid of a fine truck. Online suggestions were to try Redline MT fluid. So I did, and that was three or so years ago, it now shifts like butter. I was nothing short of amazed at the difference. I just couldn't believe that fluid could make such a difference, but it did, so there are measureable differences in gear oil.
 
I called Dave yesterday just out of curiosity. Despite being owned by Phillips 66, they still operate as they always have. Their oils still contain a large dose of POE and PAO. For LSPI, he acknowledged how Ca is a contributor, however moly and POE help negate this. As far as how much, I don't know. For GDI oils and IVD's, there are a lot of factors that play a role in intake valve deposits, some of which obviously have nothing to do with the oil itself. Two possible areas RL is ok for these engines is the lower Noack and POE content. In theory if any of the oil comes in contact with the IV's, the POE can possible help keep them clean. That is speculation though. I still think the best choice for GDI engines is Mobil 1 and Driven DI oils.
 
Originally Posted by buster
I still think the best choice for GDI engines is Mobil 1 and Driven DI oils.


Are you still on the Modern Engine bus too?.... or did you jump off?....lol
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by buster
I still think the best choice for GDI engines is Mobil 1 and Driven DI oils.


Are you still on the Modern Engine bus too?.... or did you jump off?....lol


I like VME a lot, but you have to order it. I should have included that in my post LOL.
 
Back
Top