Oil for 81’ 383 stroker engine

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That age of engine is going to be in a car without cats - something with plenty zinc to keep it happy JUST IN CASE it has a wild cam and valve springs.
Valvoline VR1 is available everywhere for cheap and will keep it happy

If its completely standard and unmodified then Maxlife could be good if it has leaks, or Rotella or Delvac would be good for cleaning if its old and hasnt had a lot of maintenance recently.

Supertech on 1000mile intervals for the first 3 changes just to be sure its not completely sludged up inside?
 
Originally Posted by RyanY
Personally, I would start with the oil recommended by the builder.


Do we know who built it? or when?
Nephew could have purchased it from a guy who built a racecar 10 years ago who is now selling off parts...
 
Originally Posted by ridgerunner
Nephew just picked up one and wanted advise on oil.


Can you give more information about the engine? Without it, we're kinda playing chess in the dark.

What are the rod and main bearing clearances?
What is the intended use of the engine? (weekend cruiser, racing, etc...)
Flat tappet or roller cam? Solid or hydraulic lifters?
Will it ever see forced induction? (nitrous, turbo, sc, etc...)
What is the max rpm?
What's the ring package?
What compression?
Will it sit for long periods of time?
Is it carb or EFI?
Will it be driven during the winter?
 
Originally Posted by RyanY
Personally, I would start with the oil recommended by the builder.

That is too logical.
 
Been using Delo 400 HDEO in my brother's modified 283 (302 sized) '67 SBC, running mechanical lifters, long slot rockers, Edelbrock Performer 600 CFM carb, not an extremely wild lift cam (double valve springs, though), combined with Comp Cams zinc aditive. Recently adjusted valves after break-in, they weren't very far off, only a little tightening needed. He had a 383 stroker motor in the CJ-7 originally, but the PO ran it too lean & actually damaged the block & one head pretty badly, block beyond repair. Your builder can tell you what bearing tolerances you have, that will determine what you run-but thicker seems to be generally better, to a point, when you race and/or run carbureted (which tends to get fuel in oil).
 
Originally Posted by RyanY
Personally, I would start with the oil recommended by the builder.


If it was built in '81, the guy may be dead already....

Having said that, in '81 you couldn't just order a stroker crank like you can now. You had to have the mains of a 400 crank machined down to fit in a 350 block. If someone went to the trouble to have that done, I'd say it's unlikely that they put a stock cam back in it. I'd recommend Rotella or equivalent..
 
Originally Posted by CT8
Originally Posted by RyanY
Personally, I would start with the oil recommended by the builder.

That is too logical.

LOL I know, I'm no fun...
I suggested that because, in my former life, I didn't want to take any chances with my engine (396 Chevy, bored, 11:1, ported/polished heads, etc). I used the oil recommended by the local builder instead of taking chances with other oils. This was the late 80s so the oils were different from today's formulations, and the info @RDY4WAR requested above would be helpful when selecting a modern oil. Obviously the builder would have this info, so that would be a good place to start. If he/she is not around any more and this info is not available, it may be best to discuss with another builder of similar engines...perhaps he is familiar with the original builder's configuration. Also see this article for a few additional considerations: https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2015/01/picking-racing-oil/
 
Kid is 18 and it is his first car, Camaro (lucky guy). I haven't seen it yet but he says it has an Eldelbrock intake and no other info. Sorry guys. He bought it off a cop in Watertown NY.
 
You should run a 15W-40 CK-4 HDEO -- Delo SDE, Delvac 1300, Premium Blue 8600, or Rotella T4. It's good until 10 °F and will provide more wear protection than any other oil.
 
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