F-150 trucks in the past 10 years

Originally Posted by Anthony
With your budget the Tundra would be a good choice. Also with what you plan to do with it the 11-14 F150 5.0 would be a go choice as well. 1st gen Coyote is reliable with an excellent, and stout 6 speed backing it up. The 360hp, and 380 ft lbs will haul your trailer easily.

The Tundra you listed will be a stronger puller with its 381hp, and 401 ft lbs.


You can't base everything off rated power/torque....A 3.92:1 geared Ram with a ZF8HP would likely tow better than those two.
 
Originally Posted by BrianF
We run several at work, had ranged from 2013, several 2016's and now a couple 2018's. We run them pretty hard and overall they seem somewhat solid. Main issues: Lost a rear axle tube on a 2013, it just fell out. Had the rear axle bearings go out on a 2016. 2 of the 3 2016's had IWE issues right out of the gate. Constant grinding, eventual IWE failure. Had to have vacuum lines, solenoids and IWE's replaced. 2 of the 3 2016's have had constant issues with the 5.0L engines. Have had all sorts of cam phasors, control solenoids, oil weights changed to really no avail. Constant stalling, lugging, low on power and poor fuel economy. I also found all the newer generation (2014+) are skittish on washboards. They have a propensity to dance their a55 all around.

Those a few of the main issues we have run into. Other than that and my opinion on Ford's in general, they F150 is quite a capable truck off road.


My boss would have a sh#t if any of our trucks had issues like that. I assume you're in the oil fields? Our trucks don't get beat on nearly as hard as I assume yours do.

The newest truck is a 2013 Silverado, next a 2010 Tacoma, mine is a 2005 Silverado. No major issues with any of them. Minor issues with the 05 over 192k miles so far.

We do land surveying and construction layout, so they do a lot of idling and probably 20+ starts a day, doors open and close 50+ times a day. No major off roading very often though.
 
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Originally Posted by Anthony
With your budget the Tundra would be a good choice. Also with what you plan to do with it the 11-14 F150 5.0 would be a go choice as well. 1st gen Coyote is reliable with an excellent, and stout 6 speed backing it up. The 360hp, and 380 ft lbs will haul your trailer easily.

The Tundra you listed will be a stronger puller with its 381hp, and 401 ft lbs.


You can't base everything off rated power/torque....A 3.92:1 geared Ram with a ZF8HP would likely tow better than those two.


Yup, despite my Jeep having more power than my wife's RAM, the RAM seems to tow the larger of our two boats easier than the Jeep does. The difference is that the RAM has deeper gears in the pots, as both have the ZF8HP.
 
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Originally Posted by Anthony
With your budget the Tundra would be a good choice. Also with what you plan to do with it the 11-14 F150 5.0 would be a go choice as well. 1st gen Coyote is reliable with an excellent, and stout 6 speed backing it up. The 360hp, and 380 ft lbs will haul your trailer easily.

The Tundra you listed will be a stronger puller with its 381hp, and 401 ft lbs.


You can't base everything off rated power/torque....A 3.92:1 geared Ram with a ZF8HP would likely tow better than those two.



I'm well aware of that. Given the vehicles the OP mentioned, a Tundra 5.7 will out tow ANY configuration Ford 5.0 that is mated to a 6 speed trans no matter what rear axle the 5.0 has. Most tundra 5.7s are 4.30 with a few 4.10s

The OP didnt ask about the Hemi. The Hemi tows great for awhile until a lifter wipes out the cam with that cylinder deactivation garbage.
 
For a daily driven truck with weekend warrior duty, our 2018 2.7 4wd has been great. It's a great tow vehicle and as about as good as you can get as a MPG daliy-driven truck. IF I drive conservatively and let start/stop do it's thing, it will return around 20-21 mpg. The 2.7 delivers good towing torque down low is and is a relaxed drive with our ~4000 lb camper behind it. That said, the dash started squeaking in under a year old, and the HVAC Recirc motor has already failed, and the sync 3 radio will switch to the setup screen if I hit a pot hole during a hard right turn.

coming from a gen 1 tundra, the ford is so much more of a refined vehicle, but the tundra seemed a heavier, more solid build in several ways.
 
Originally Posted by lancerplayer
OP here

The Tundra seems to be a favorite as well. How do these two specific trucks compare?

2010 Toyota Tundra SR5, 4x4, 5.7L V8, 90k miles, asking $18,000

2013 Ford F-150 XLT, 4x4, 5.0L V8, 84k miles, asking $19,500

Ford comes with more add ons like leveling kit, spray in bed liner, tinted windows, bed cover

I am focused on overall reliability and longevity.

On the Tundra, they are known for cam tower oil leaks and power steering racks--don't know how often they break, but they do. I found out the hard way the rear leafs can break while doing... nothing. And the only way to get a decent replacement caliper is to mail order one.

But at this age anything can break, so there's that. Good luck.
 
Count on replacing the box and fenders on any RAM in the rust belt. They will rust through eventually if you live in the rust belt (because of the insulation inside which cannot be removed). Usually they rust through just before warranty is up but sometimes just after.
 
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Count on replacing the box and fenders on any RAM in the rust belt. They will rust through eventually if you live in the rust belt (because of the insulation inside which cannot be removed). Usually they rust through just before warranty is up but sometimes just after.


Easily mitigated with Rust Check or Krown. All our work trucks are sprayed at Rust Check and the fenders on them are all mint. Most are 8 years old or older.
 
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Count on replacing the box and fenders on any RAM in the rust belt. They will rust through eventually if you live in the rust belt (because of the insulation inside which cannot be removed). Usually they rust through just before warranty is up but sometimes just after.


Easily mitigated with Rust Check or Krown. All our work trucks are sprayed at Rust Check and the fenders on them are all mint. Most are 8 years old or older.


No, apparently it doesn't help at all in this case because the insulation gets wet inside and holds the moisture. My friend who's a body shop manager does several a week. Last month he did my best friends power wagon front fenders a week before the warranty is up and it was krowned every year, washed weekly and babied. Same with another guy I know has a 2014 Ram and it was krowned every year also. Now it has an aftermarket fender which will drive that guy crazy because he's OCD. They are the only vehicles I personally know of that will rust out even if you undercoat it yearly.
 
Caprice 2nv, not oil patch but more of a garbage man that does a lot of off highway work. Work takes me to the oil patch, the rez and every where in between. We idle our vehicles quite a bit to. The 5.0 litres usually don't give us grief but when the phasers are out of whack you have to keep an eye on your truck as it will die and drain the battery.

I was quite happy with my 2011 ram 1500. With 10 ply tires, 3.92 gears and air bags, it towed like a champ. We ran her hard and traded it off with minimal issues at 150,000km.
 
Trying to find out what year they started putting the insulation in there, at least as early as 2009 from my search. These are just some of the posts I found quickly in case you don't want to take my word for it. I knew they were prone to rust but I didn't realize how bad the problem was until talking to my friend who runs the body shop, and a roommate I had a couple of years ago who got a new box under warranty on his 2014 when it was only 4 year's old.

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Originally Posted by BrianF
Caprice 2nv, not oil patch but more of a garbage man that does a lot of off highway work. Work takes me to the oil patch, the rez and every where in between. We idle our vehicles quite a bit to. The 5.0 litres usually don't give us grief but when the phasers are out of whack you have to keep an eye on your truck as it will die and drain the battery.

I was quite happy with my 2011 ram 1500. With 10 ply tires, 3.92 gears and air bags, it towed like a champ. We ran her hard and traded it off with minimal issues at 150,000km.


You guys don't use as much salt out there because of the cold weather right? I know we sometimes find old vehicles that were from the West and are in a whole lot better shape than what we're used to here.

I didn't realize the cam phasers were a problem on the 5.0 also. What kind of engine hours would your trucks rack up in 200k miles? My 05 1500 Silverado is at just under 200k and 8500 engine hours right now according to the dash.
 
We use a bit of potash on the roads but really nothing crazy in comparison to the east coast or possibly Ontario.... we run our fleet vehicles out to 170 or 180,000km before we mile them out. My 2015 F150 was done at 155 due to never ending 4x4 and cam phaser problems. I have to check the hours but I think I was north of 3000 idle hours.

Now I don't recall what I had for rust on my 2011 ram. Not much of any detected on the body. The 2008 and earlier dodge trucks had the boxes rust out and the 2007+ gm trucks all have major rust issues. The body panels on my 2017 3500 are so thin there isnt physical room for rust to even form, so I am doing pretty good so far.
 
Wow, we consider a 2015 a brand new vehicle. Our newest vehicle is a 2013 Silverado with 100k, the next newest is a 2010 Tacoma with 120k and then my 05 with 192k. The bosses 2016 will be put into the fleet whenever one of the other 2 trucks gets too rusty (no rust on either so far) or starts breaking down.

Since I started 8 years ago we've only lost one truck (due to rust), could have been fixed for less than $2000 (rockers and cab corners) but they figured it was "too old to put any money into".
 
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Count on replacing the box and fenders on any RAM in the rust belt. They will rust through eventually if you live in the rust belt (because of the insulation inside which cannot be removed). Usually they rust through just before warranty is up but sometimes just after.


Easily mitigated with Rust Check or Krown. All our work trucks are sprayed at Rust Check and the fenders on them are all mint. Most are 8 years old or older.


No, apparently it doesn't help at all in this case because the insulation gets wet inside and holds the moisture. My friend who's a body shop manager does several a week. Last month he did my best friends power wagon front fenders a week before the warranty is up and it was krowned every year, washed weekly and babied. Same with another guy I know has a 2014 Ram and it was krowned every year also. Now it has an aftermarket fender which will drive that guy crazy because he's OCD. They are the only vehicles I personally know of that will rust out even if you undercoat it yearly.


As I said, we have a fleet of them, none of them have any fender rust at all, they are all treated at Rust Check. The last truck we owned that had the fenders (and rockers) rot out was a Silverado 1500. None of the RAM's have done it, nor have the Ford's. Most of the current RAM's are 2011's, a few 2012's and then a couple newer 2014/2015's. The product will creep behind the insulation if properly applied.
 
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Count on replacing the box and fenders on any RAM in the rust belt. They will rust through eventually if you live in the rust belt (because of the insulation inside which cannot be removed). Usually they rust through just before warranty is up but sometimes just after.


Easily mitigated with Rust Check or Krown. All our work trucks are sprayed at Rust Check and the fenders on them are all mint. Most are 8 years old or older.


No, apparently it doesn't help at all in this case because the insulation gets wet inside and holds the moisture. My friend who's a body shop manager does several a week. Last month he did my best friends power wagon front fenders a week before the warranty is up and it was krowned every year, washed weekly and babied. Same with another guy I know has a 2014 Ram and it was krowned every year also. Now it has an aftermarket fender which will drive that guy crazy because he's OCD. They are the only vehicles I personally know of that will rust out even if you undercoat it yearly.


As I said, we have a fleet of them, none of them have any fender rust at all, they are all treated at Rust Check. The last truck we owned that had the fenders (and rockers) rot out was a Silverado 1500. None of the RAM's have done it, nor have the Ford's. Most of the current RAM's are 2011's, a few 2012's and then a couple newer 2014/2015's. The product will creep behind the insulation if properly applied.


Have you actually seen one on the inside? I'm just going by the body guy but he says it won't get in there. Combine that with the fact that our local krown doesn't do a good job (sometimes misses half the undercarriage) and it's a recipe for disaster. We recommend everyone go to rust check now as they are significantly better, but they aren't as popular and don't do radio advertising here.

Either way, I'd say you got lucky so far. I believe the 2014+ may be the worst ones from what I'm seeing so you may get to see what I mean soon enough. Or just talk to any body shop guys. I'm glad you got some good ones though. I very much doubt they make it to 15 years without at least a fender though.
 
Originally Posted by lancerplayer
OP here

The Tundra seems to be a favorite as well. How do these two specific trucks compare?

2010 Toyota Tundra SR5, 4x4, 5.7L V8, 90k miles, asking $18,000

2013 Ford F-150 XLT, 4x4, 5.0L V8, 84k miles, asking $19,500

Ford comes with more add ons like leveling kit, spray in bed liner, tinted windows, bed cover

I am focused on overall reliability and longevity.

I was told by several Tundra owners that the frames for the Tundra tend to rust out before the others. Something to consider in the rust belt. Been under a Dodge Ram and it seemed to me to be a lighter duty version of F150's and Siverados. Suspension and drive line is what caught my attention.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Lubener
Originally Posted by lancerplayer
OP here

The Tundra seems to be a favorite as well. How do these two specific trucks compare?

2010 Toyota Tundra SR5, 4x4, 5.7L V8, 90k miles, asking $18,000

2013 Ford F-150 XLT, 4x4, 5.0L V8, 84k miles, asking $19,500

Ford comes with more add ons like leveling kit, spray in bed liner, tinted windows, bed cover

I am focused on overall reliability and longevity.

I was told by several Tundra owners that the frames for the Tundra tend to rust out before the others. Something to consider in the rust belt. Been under a Dodge Ram and it seemed to me to be a lighter duty version of F150's and Siverados. Suspension and drive line is what caught my attention.


Tacoma's and tundra's used to be bad for frames, not if the newer ones are affected. Our 2010 Tacoma at work is affected but I'm undercoating all the trucks religiously so hopefully it will be fine. The frame does look slightly crustier than the 2005 which has only been sporadically undercoated up until this year.

I've seen Dodge's (2014 era) need a ball joint replaced as early as 29,000kms (18k miles). That vehicle was owned by someone who babies all his vehicles. His last truck was a 2002 f150 that was still in decent shape after well over 200k miles. It needed ball joints at around 100k miles if I remember right.

The techs in the shop I worked at say they are definitely built lighter (one guy even bought one anyway because the price was so low).
 
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Have you actually seen one on the inside? I'm just going by the body guy but he says it won't get in there. Combine that with the fact that our local krown doesn't do a good job (sometimes misses half the undercarriage) and it's a recipe for disaster. We recommend everyone go to rust check now as they are significantly better, but they aren't as popular and don't do radio advertising here.

Either way, I'd say you got lucky so far. I believe the 2014+ may be the worst ones from what I'm seeing so you may get to see what I mean soon enough. Or just talk to any body shop guys. I'm glad you got some good ones though. I very much doubt they make it to 15 years without at least a fender though.


I'll ask my body shop buddy about it and see what he says. He does all the work for my dealer, so he would see a LOT of them. He fixes all the police Chargers too. The Krown and Rust Check guys are supposed to be trained on targeting the problem areas, but whether they do or not? Your mention of your local Krown place's behaviour is exactly why I stopped using them. We had them do one of our 5-ton trucks and they missed like 50% of the undercarriage!
crazy2.gif
The local Rust Check guy drowns them by comparison, so he now gets all our business.
 
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