Mazda cx5 diff case fluids and which tranny fluid type?

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Owner of a new to us 16 mazda cx5 2.5 with 26k miles

Been reading it has "lifetime fluid" for the tranny..
But also reading it came with red fluid but the manual calls for the fz.. I read this is blue fluid? Any insight on this and if I should change it out? What about the "lifetime" deal? Only 26k miles so not too worried right now

As for the front and rear cases it calls out a specific fluid which is no problem.. standard drain and fill the oil school way? (Until it pours out of the top hole?)
 
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For the record I have not checked the fluid color yet.. we've only had the car a couple days
 
I think you can do a VIN sweep per service history just to make sure you know what's what.
Other than that, I would follow the vehicle warranty expectations per service book guidelines and leave it at that. I was told lifetime on our CX-7 too but when you get upward of 70 or 80 k , we all like to hedge our bets.
Unless something pops up on your search indicating a fluid change was done and questioning the use of the correct 'stuff', I'd be settled on it.

Tranny fluid was a "very spec'd" item on our 2008 CX-7 - maybe a type 5 by Mazda. Toyo might have been the same too as per a type 5 that would have worked. Just recall it was fussy and expensive and I chose not to take any chances when I did my own drain and fill.
Not sure how that follows through though, I have yet to look up the spec on our '16 CX-9.
 
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I'd change it like every 30-50k miles if you plan on keep the vehicle for the long haul, lifetime is a little misleading, "lifetime" means for the service life of the transmission which from Mazda's standpoint means that it'll last at least the warranty period but beyond that they don't care, changing it out every 30-50k should help extend the service life of the transmission.
 
One item I forgot to add that made me a bit weary at the time we had the CX-7;

I was fairly familiar with many posts by various brands of vehicles mentioning a tranny flush brought on issues or troubles that were not pre existing. For that reason, my tactic was (if) to have the tranny flush done, only by the dealer and priorto the car passing it's warranty coverage date. We traded it off before such time but in the meantime, I did drain the fluid and top off with the spec stuff.
I mention this because I'll bet a warranty claim could get a bit sticky or worse by Mazda or the serving dealership IF one is to have flush done elsewhere, yet within the warranty period / miles. I wasn't going to take that chance.
*As above recommended, not a bad idea to get it done early or at those miles but what if ?
A) The dealer isn't the one doing it, B) Doesn't recommend it per "lifetime" claim, C) Another place does the work leading to a problem ?

Will Mazda back it or is it a fight ?
I'm just thinking strategically because I'm seeing more slop in the way things are being handled these days by a few. Mfg's making crazy claims on what is normal oil use or consumption over a few thousand miles etc....
 
Gotta say "thanks" because I bought 4 qts. of FZ for the D&F on a family member's 2016 Mazda3 come 60K but....
I totally forgot about the diff. I assume the FWD versions have a front diff.
 
The fluid is FZ and a drain and fill is all you should ever do. There's a drain plug and fill plug for that reason. Do not ever do a "flush".

My M6 took 3.75qts when I performed the service. It's just as easy as a Honda. Buy 5-6qts from the dealer if they take back what you don't use.

You'll probably have to let the dealer look up the PTU and rear diff fluids for you. Then you can look to see if there are other alternatives.

My AWD car uses 75w-90 in the PTU and rear diff but they are different fluids.
 
Yes, the correct fluid is FZ. You have two options (as of the last time I looked into this) Mazda or Ravenol. I chose to go with Ravenol as you can purchase it from Blauparts for a decent price when they run a special.

Has far as the diff & transfer case, you'll want to use Mazda Long Life Hypoid Gear Oil SG1. To my knowledge there is no aftermarket alternative at this time.

I will be changing the trans, t-case and rear diff at 75k.
 
All gear boxes should have early fluid changes, after which they can run rather a long time before the next change. This means that instead of waiting until 60-90k miles, change at 10-15k miles at the very latest, _then_ change every xxx (whatever you like. 30k? 50k?).

The A/T also puts clutch debris into the fluid. I'd do a 3x or 4x drain and fill now if I was interested in keeping it for a loooong time. If I just planned to lease and return, or drive for a few years then sell (or crash and total), then you can ignore it if you like.

I did multiple d&fs on my ‘15 6's A/T when I got it.
 
Since the lifetime spec is on there.. what I did with the wifes old fusion was check the fluid first, and as long as it was full, whatever I drained out was the exact amount I put back in (say I drained 4 quarts I replace 4 quarts)

Now.. say I drain 3.5 out of the Mazda... do I fill it off or start it in park and then fill? I know a complete refill of a tranny you cant get it all in at once without it running generally (at least the old school ones).. any issues with overflowing while it's off in these mazdas with a simple drain and fill?

Any additives needed on the front or rear pumpkin or just the mazda spec oil?
 
And just fill the front and rear until it comes out of the drain holes? Any issues if it's on ramps or jacked up or must it be absolutley level for the diffs?
 
Follow the procedure in the service manual. If you don't already know where to find that, you need to search around on a Mazda forum or two. To check the level you'll need to measure the ATF temp. You can do that with a ScanGauge (or similar) or get good and close with an infrared thermometer. When the ATF is at the correct temp, you measure the level on the dipstick. It's not as hard as it sounds.

If you want to simply add the same volume you removed, you can do that. Generally it is recommended to let what you removed cool down to the same temp as the fluid you plan to add before you measure the removed volume.
 
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It's not the fluid that changes the volume that much with the temperature, it's the aluminum transmission case and pan.
So letting the fluid "cool" after it was drained does not change the volume that much.
 
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