16 mazda cx5 2.5... oil and filter brand and type?

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sh40674

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Just got a 16' cx5 with 26k... calls for 0-20.. check

What filter do you use on these? Should I order a mazda brand online? I always try to stick with matching brands for filters (delco, motorcraft, mopar etc...)

Would wix be ok for this? Our first mazda so not sure if there have been issues with different brands?

Also, some of the filters on rock auto say "factory filled synthetic oil"... what in God's name does this mean?

Also I've heard of people online saying they use Liqui-moly oil.. what's this? Will pennzoil synthetic or Mobil 1 work just as well? Or even walmart brand synthetic for that matter ?

Boy this is a new world to me.
 
Originally Posted by sh40674

Also, some of the filters on rock auto say "factory filled synthetic oil"... what in God's name does this mean?
.

It just means that when the car was brand new the manufacturer filled the engine with a synthetic oil,I think it's more a recommendation to try to get you to buy a synthetic oil with the filter.
 
go with w30,my cx5 loves the motul 8100 eco lite but any oil will do really.
id use m1 or pennzoil over Liqui-moly any day of the week.
 
Go with any major brand of 0w20. The Mazda filter can be purchased at the dealer.

I've ran Valvoline and Havoline synthetic in mine. Run a 5k oci if you short trip a lot and 7.5k if you drive mainly highway miles.
 
Factory fill is Idemitsu. Idemitsu premium brand is Zepro. You can get Mazda Moly 0W-20 at a dealer for about the same as Zepro Advanced Moly on Amazon. I get Mazda oil filters at the dealer. Some dealers sell a cheaper Mazda Value Line filter too. Owner manual recommends Castrol but dealer bulk is Total. Don't forget the crush washer.
 
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I have 3 used oil analysis that demonstrate that Pennzoil Platinum in 0w20 & 5w30, with a OEM or WIX filter is a very good combination for my 2.5L 2014 CX5. Ed
 
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Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en

Platinum 0w20 and Wix or OEM oil filter.


I agree. 145,000 miles on my 2015 Mazda 6 when I sold it with PP 0w-20 being used for most il of that time. And a Mobile 1 oil filter, #108 I think. I did have a wix filter seep oil on it so I switch to the Mobile 1 filter.
 
Pennzoil/Sopus products are my go to -- you could use Super Tech Full Synthetic also to save acouple bucks at $14.88 for a 5 quart jug -- hard to beat!!!
wink.gif
 
I've been running M1 AFE 0-20 and either M1 filter or Fram Tough Guard filters on my CX-5. No issues at all. Recently switched to Penn Platinum, and it seems to like that, too. Wix filters have been used on my other vehicles without any problems at all.
 
Originally Posted by Randy_R
Don't forget the crush washer.


Do these need replaced every change? If so does advance or oreillys or anywhere like that sell them?
 
I'm guessing any dorman oil crush washer or something will work.. can I just buy one of those drain plugs that have a built in rubber gasket on it so I dont have to worry about it?
 
Originally Posted by avi1777
change the washer every oil change and check the plug as well.

In regards to folks that keep their vehicles for 10-20 years....
Only change the washer as needed. Some washers last years of oil changes.

Increased torque is required for avoiding leaks with new washers, especially the thick copper OEM ones. Increased drain plug torque repeatedly (over years) improves chances for damage to either the plug threads or oil pan threads.

Once that washer is shaped properly t the surrounding oil pan, increased, heavy torque is not needed anymore, when it's time for the 2nd, 3rd, 4th.....etc.... oil change.
 
Well, unlike other brands that may have a irregular surface on their oil pans, the Mazda pan is straight and true.

Yes you can reuse the washer provided everything else is in proper shape. They are cheap though.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by avi1777
change the washer every oil change and check the plug as well.

In regards to folks that keep their vehicles for 10-20 years....
Only change the washer as needed. Some washers last years of oil changes.

Increased torque is required for avoiding leaks with new washers, especially the thick copper OEM ones. Increased drain plug torque repeatedly (over years) improves chances for damage to either the plug threads or oil pan threads.

Once that washer is shaped properly t the surrounding oil pan, increased, heavy torque is not needed anymore, when it's time for the 2nd, 3rd, 4th.....etc.... oil change.

I believe you have it backwards. A new soft washer every time means the torque is absorbed by the softness of the new washer. With an old hardened washer, all the torque is absorbed by the threads on the oil pan. Plus, pull a little extra hard on a new washer, the washer just crushes a little extra. Pull a little harder with an old washer, the threads take the stress.
 
Originally Posted by JaySquared
[.... I did have a wix filter seep oil on it so I switch to the Mobile 1 filter.


I had my last Wix 57002 seep oil onto itself as well. I questioned my oil filter tightness, but now I have less doubt on that.
sleep.gif


Anyway, I typically use 0w20 M1 AFE for 5000 miles or 0w20 M1 EP for 7500 miles.
 
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