Glazing of cylinder walls typically occurs during engine break-in and is caused by improper operation during the break-in period by operating at power settings too low to allow the piston rings to seat properly with the cylinder walls.
I've rebuilt a lot of motorcycle engines including some of the same engines several times over the years and I'm going to agree on the likelihood of this, given the info you've provided so far.
It would be interesting to measure the piston to cylinder wall clearance and the ring gap. As low of mileage as this one is you might be able to save yourself a bunch of time and trouble. If the piston to cylinder wall clearance is still within service wear limits and the pistons look OK you might get away with honing a cross hatch and new rings, just be sure to check the ring gap in place prior to assembly and stagger the gaps properly upon reassembly. I don't know your particular bike at all, but there should be a published spec for cylinder bore and service wear limits. Older bikes you could use a feeler gauge, some modern bikes you can't do this because of the piston shape, there is a bore spec for that piston and that's it. If you don't have the tools any good machine shop would probably check it for a couple of bucks.
I have had excellent results from Flex-Hone (looks like a bunch of abrasive nodules on a wire brush), the quality of finish and oil retention is excellent, and the stock removal is almost nil. No special tools required, a cordless drill works fine. After honing DO NOT use solvent of any kind, wipe the cylinder walls with a clean rag saturated with clean oil until the rag comes out clean. If you wash the cylinder with solvent after honing you will be right back where you started but worse. The solvent carries the abrasive particles into the pores of the metal and it will result in accelerated wear and maybe even glazed rings.
The reason why I am agreeing with 1978elcamino is I've seen this before for the reasons described. On a new build the ring edges are sharp and the fine structure of the cylinder walls if properly honed are "open" for lack of a better word. It's an abrasive situation even if the walls were oiled properly on assembly. The first start should be only a couple of seconds and shut the engine off immediately. The edges of the rings will have turned very, very hot. Wait a few minutes, start the engine, do not tach it up, run for 30 seconds, shut it off, wait a few minutes. Now start the engine and ride the bike for a few miles and just ride normally, don't beat it, don't baby it. Let it cool off, then go for a 50 mile ride, come home, change the oil. I have no idea how many bikes I've done this with and never had a problem.
If moly-faced rings are an option for that bike you might have better results from that as well..