Milling machine transmission oil

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Mar 6, 2020
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Kansas
So this mill was from the 1970's-80s and the manual calls for Shell X-100 S.A.E. 10 W which I don't think is made anymore. The other bit is I'm not sure the old oil was ever optimal for this transmission - it had 5 worn out brass forks (for changing gears) that came with it. Running at high speed the spindle runs at 4200 RPM - and the brass fork is holding a coupler running at spindle speed.

The other parts lubricated are large gears - roller bearings.

Any ideas of what modern oil to use in this machine?
 
@Farnsworth

Velocite is a spindle oil - this is the transmission that drives the spindle.

SAE 10 is about a ISO 32 - I think velocite only goes up to ISO - 22

Besides the yoke there are large gears (largest is 6.5" diameter) - roller bearings on a 1.5" shaft - ball bearings as well.

Probably should be a detergent oil with about the same weight, but with modern anti-wear properties - and the steel/brass yoke contact may (or may not) mean something to oil engineers that know more than I do.

If I was a betting man - I bet they specified the same oil that they saw Bridgeport using back in the 1930's and no ever thought about modern oils. ( if the seals leak people use cheap oil in mill transmissions, but this has new seals).

Could be velocite 10 would work - about a SAE-5. Can't see anything that says if velocite is a detergent oil?
 
It requres a transmission oil .
SAE 10W typically has a KV@40*C of about 40 cSt.
Hence an industrial transmission gear oil of ISO 46 (or ISO 32) would be an appropriate replacement.
 
From another thread Royal Purple for tractor. Scroll to page 42 it shows iso 22 would be SAE 10w engine oil. Velo 10 is iso 22. It just a suggestion. Shell x100 is motor oil. They spec 10w motor oil. I had a surface grinder and it spec'd 10w Texaco Ursa among others. Don't know who makes 10w now.
I think 10w-30 synthetic motor oil may be a good modern match because how hot does it get anyway and if it does get warm the oil just thickens a little.

http://www.royalpurplemena.com/product-categories/Royal Purple 2014 Industrial Catalog.pdf
 
"If it gets warm the oil thickens a little" I have never heard of any oil thickening as it gets warmer? But yes 10w-30 synthetic would be a good choice in my opinion.
 
I think Zeng has this right. There is no combustion chamber. Motor oils are a compromise to deal with combustion gasses and some extremes in temperatures.

First, synthetic is not one thing. It can mean modified oil, or PAO or PAG or a mix. I probably want synthetic (PAG) for the lower viscosity.. but it should be a gearbox oil WITHOUT the synchronizer additives.

I really think the motor-oil spec comes from what someone thought was readily available and good enough in the 1930's.

Sulfur additives are probably a bad idea due to the brass - my biggest problem is I need a couple of quarts ( could be what dictated the initial specification ) .. most of this stuff comes in barrels..

(OT a bit: I did find this https://recondoil.com/gear-oil-guide/ limited help but interesting. There is a clip from https://youtu.be/Z7NpsMZ9pBQ with interesting bits about the NEW GL-4 oils )

I think a thinner oil makes sense where a shaft can be spinning at 4,200 RPM for an hour at a time.. Thicker oil would just get hot.

So My biggest problem is who would have the right stuff and how to buy a small quantity?
 
Originally Posted by lrak
- my biggest problem is I need a couple of quarts ( could be what dictated the initial specification ) .. most of this stuff comes in barrels..

...............

So My biggest problem is who would have the right stuff and how to buy a small quantity?



You're right that the shear stable monograde industrial gear oils in ISO 32/46 comes in barrels .
However automotive transmission oils of KV@40*C of 32/46/68 cSt are available in quarts .
You may consider shear stable one in monograde MTF SAE 75W , or
Next one Chrysler ATF +4 is prefered to LV Dexron VI .
You have more choices of lesser shear stability in MTF 75W80 or general ATF's .
 
Last edited:
@zeng


I know manual transmission oil has additives so the syncronizers grab - perhaps the same is true for automatic clutch bands?


I think Mobil Delvac 1 Gear Oil 75W90 is a possible candidate - (what threw me was that gear oil and motor oil use different SAE grade numbers - SAE75-gear and SAE10-motor are both about ISO 32)..
But - the specs say it is cST/100 of 14 - more like ISO 100...

I don't seem to be able to find any API MT-1 that is ISO 32 - so back to other options.
 
@zeng

Looks like ATF+4 ought to work. I think it is a PAO with some special additives..
The only bit I know is they don't like oxygen - but this gear housing is sealed other than a sintered breather - which I could put a balloon on.

Thanks for your comments - never thought I would learn this much about oils. I once read a text-book on oil refining - electric separation of water and oil - bits about PAO, PAG, and esters - but never realized just how many details there are.
 
Ended up going with some SHC-624 - a bit of overkill, but hopefully the fork will wear longer.
 
I always start at the manual lube tag as such it says
" the manual calls for Shell X-100 S.A.E. 10" thats a 32 or 46 ISO oil.
if you cannot find a straight wt 10wt motor SF or SL oil go with a 46 AW hydraulic oil.
 
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