My 2019 Civic Si oil dilution - Blackstone analysis

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well the software "fix" honda issued for the 2019+ civics with the 1.5t didnt fix anything apparently. just got my most recent analysis back from blackstone for my 2019 Si and it shows my fuel dilution at 3.3%! and this oil only had 3k miles on it...

its weird because the oil analysis i had before this one had 35oo miles on it and only had 2% dilution. i dont live in a particularly too cold environment and and i never take short trips. i do let my engine warm up for 5 to 10 minutes in the morning depending how cold it is.

should i be worried guys?

1583202261700_adobe.jpg
 
Your wear metals are ok. But I would keep changing the oil every 3-3500k miles like you've been doing. No need to worry as long as the metals stay low.
 
Blackstone typically Under-reports fuel dilution.

Suggestions:

switch to a 30s warmup when possible.. ie if windows arent iced over etc.
Consider using a 0w30 or 5w30- a typical 0w30 is only about 20-25% thicker at 100C than a 0w20 (not 50% as you would assume from 20wt vs 30wt)
Change oil every 3k miles during cold season.. possibly extend out during warmer parts of year.
 
Originally Posted by Rand
Blackstone typically Under-reports fuel dilution.

Suggestions:

switch to a 30s warmup when possible.. ie if windows arent iced over etc.
Consider using a 0w30 or 5w30- a typical 0w30 is only about 20-25% thicker at 100C than a 0w20 (not 50% as you would assume from 20wt vs 30wt)
Change oil every 3k miles during cold season.. possibly extend out during warmer parts of year.



thats really not good news. ill cut back on the warmups.. what is a 30s warmup?
 
could the penzoil also be the cause? im at 23k miles and used nothing but pp 0w20 from the beginning. would switching brands help out for this engine?
 
Originally Posted by HondaBoyRacer
could the penzoil also be the cause? im at 23k miles and used nothing but pp 0w20 from the beginning. would switching brands help out for this engine?

No. Fuel dilution is agnostic to brand.
 
Originally Posted by HondaBoyRacer
Originally Posted by Rand
Blackstone typically Under-reports fuel dilution.

Suggestions:

switch to a 30s warmup when possible.. ie if windows arent iced over etc.
Consider using a 0w30 or 5w30- a typical 0w30 is only about 20-25% thicker at 100C than a 0w20 (not 50% as you would assume from 20wt vs 30wt)
Change oil every 3k miles during cold season.. possibly extend out during warmer parts of year.



thats really not good news. ill cut back on the warmups.. what is a 30s warmup?

Thirty seconds of warmup... or as soon as the RPM's drop down, take off and drive reasonably until the engine warms up (no lead-footin').

Welcome!
smile.gif
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by WagonWheel
30s = thirty seconds

How high was the oil level on the stick?


you know its strange because i check the dipsick every week in the same spot in my garage and the level did not increase ..at least not enough to be noticeable.
 
Originally Posted by SteveG4
Originally Posted by HondaBoyRacer
Originally Posted by Rand
Blackstone typically Under-reports fuel dilution.

Suggestions:

switch to a 30s warmup when possible.. ie if windows arent iced over etc.
Consider using a 0w30 or 5w30- a typical 0w30 is only about 20-25% thicker at 100C than a 0w20 (not 50% as you would assume from 20wt vs 30wt)
Change oil every 3k miles during cold season.. possibly extend out during warmer parts of year.



thats really not good news. ill cut back on the warmups.. what is a 30s warmup?

Thirty seconds of warmup... or as soon as the RPM's drop down, take off and drive reasonably until the engine warms up (no lead-footin').

Welcome!
smile.gif


thanks for that clarification
 
Nothing to worry about. Use 0/5w30, change it every 5k or so and enjoy the car. These engines are really good
 
No, nothing to worry about.

I have a 2018 lowered Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T. I live in Minnesota and short trip to work 10 miles. I am on boost more then most. I get 18 mpg in the winter and 22 in the summer. When I bought this car I knew I was going to have problems with fuel dilution.It is just the nature of a small GDI turbo. I bought a 10 pack of tests from JG Lubrication that I use at work and they are a third party to Polaris Labs. Polaris Labs has far better accuracy then Blackstone in fuel dilution. I am at 5% plus. I worked with a oil analysis tech at Polaris Labs that use to race Hyundai's that they had me work with since he knows the brand so good. I run 5w-30 Mobil 1 ESP, I don't care what Hyundai spec for oil since it a mileage spec. I am running far better oil with MB, VW, and Porsche specs that far exceed theirs. Besides the 5w-30 spec Hyundai allows 5w-40 with no specs on what 5w-40.

Polaris labs have 2 fuel dilution tests, the cheap on they stuff down your throat, and the advanced one that you have to make them run AFTER they do the complete testing and you call for a verbal explanation of your test.Then you demand the better test that you demand on the enrollment of your test through there admissions part of their website. LIke.....hey I am sending this in for fuel dilution and you give me the cheap/crap test so now we have to rerun the test because you did not want to run the advanced test in the first place. I called out I basically ONLY send it in because of I need an accurate fuel dilution test...I digress.

My findings through 2 winters and 8 tests with 5% PLUS fuel dilution. ZERO abnormal wear. And from a turbo motor that gets thrashed on daily. Here it is..... "There is nothing to worry about" There is also a Honda 1.5T guy on here that found the EXACT thing after getting all concerned and worried about fuel dilution. ( I see he posted right above my post ^ ) You soon learn fuel dilution is a none issue. Hyundai rough service oil change is 3,750 miles and I change it then, because I have dirty oil with some soot. You pay to play. I was also told about a story about a business owner who had 35 delivery vans that had what they est. was 8% oil dilution, (since accurate tests only go up to 5%+) they did some other tests $$$ that that guy was willing to pay for to get a 8%+ reading. Guess what........no excessive wear issue in any of the vans with long term tracking. That owner finally realized it is not an issue.

I test every other oil change at a local large CAT dealer that has a huge oil lab to watch wear. None yet. I will start doing once a year checks now ( every 3rd oil change ) since everything is going good.

I see some new Hyundai owners getting all freaked and Hyundai switching out high pressure fuel pumps with the same exact outcome and I keep saying to then, "you will have the same outcome after they try to fix your nothing burger" and every time there is fuel in the gas. I gain about 1/2 qt+ in winter within 200 to 300 miles of a new oil change and it then slows down gaining oil and levels of to another 1/4 to 1/3qt through the rest of the 3,500 mile till I change my oil. Since I get high g force in corners and don't have a oil pan with baffles because that would void my warranty I run a bit over full all the time, so I pump out oil when it gets really high about three times in my 3,500 oil timeline. I use an oil analysis pump/jar/tube setup to get it out.

https://www.jglubricantservices.com/images/JGVP01.jpg

.
 
Originally Posted by SteveG4
Originally Posted by HondaBoyRacer
Originally Posted by Rand
Blackstone typically Under-reports fuel dilution.

Suggestions:

switch to a 30s warmup when possible.. ie if windows arent iced over etc.
Consider using a 0w30 or 5w30- a typical 0w30 is only about 20-25% thicker at 100C than a 0w20 (not 50% as you would assume from 20wt vs 30wt)
Change oil every 3k miles during cold season.. possibly extend out during warmer parts of year.



thats really not good news. ill cut back on the warmups.. what is a 30s warmup?

Thirty seconds of warmup... or as soon as the RPM's drop down, take off and drive reasonably until the engine warms up (no lead-footin').

Welcome!
smile.gif


thanks for that clarification
 
Originally Posted by Mainia
No, nothing to worry about.

I have a 2018 lowered Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T. I live in Minnesota and short trip to work 10 miles. I am on boost more then most. I get 18 mpg in the winter and 22 in the summer. When I bought this car I knew I was going to have problems with fuel dilution.It is just the nature of a small GDI turbo. I bought a 10 pack of tests from JG Lubrication that I use at work and they are a third party to Polaris Labs. Polaris Labs has far better accuracy then Blackstone in fuel dilution. I am at 5% plus. I worked with a oil analysis tech at Polaris Labs that use to race Hyundai's that they had me work with since he knows the brand so good. I run 5w-30 Mobil 1 ESP, I don't care what Hyundai spec for oil since it a mileage spec. I am running far better oil with MB, VW, and Porsche specs that far exceed theirs. Besides the 5w-30 spec Hyundai allows 5w-40 with no specs on what 5w-40.

Polaris labs have 2 fuel dilution tests, the cheap on they stuff down your throat, and the advanced one that you have to make them run AFTER they do the complete testing and you call for a verbal explanation of your test.Then you demand the better test that you demand on the enrollment of your test through there admissions part of their website. LIke.....hey I am sending this in for fuel dilution and you give me the cheap/crap test so now we have to rerun the test because you did not want to run the advanced test in the first place. I called out I basically ONLY send it in because of I need an accurate fuel dilution test...I digress.

My findings through 2 winters and 8 tests with 5% PLUS fuel dilution. ZERO abnormal wear. And from a turbo motor that gets thrashed on daily. Here it is..... "There is nothing to worry about" There is also a Honda 1.5T guy on here that found the EXACT thing after getting all concerned and worried about fuel dilution. ( I see he posted right above my post ^ ) You soon learn fuel dilution is a none issue. Hyundai rough service oil change is 3,750 miles and I change it then, because I have dirty oil with some soot. You pay to play. I was also told about a story about a business owner who had 35 delivery vans that had what they est. was 8% oil dilution, (since accurate tests only go up to 5%+) they did some other tests $$$ that that guy was willing to pay for to get a 8%+ reading. Guess what........no excessive wear issue in any of the vans with long term tracking. That owner finally realized it is not an issue.

I test every other oil change at a local large CAT dealer that has a huge oil lab to watch wear. None yet. I will start doing once a year checks now ( every 3rd oil change ) since everything is going good.

I see some new Hyundai owners getting all freaked and Hyundai switching out high pressure fuel pumps with the same exact outcome and I keep saying to then, "you will have the same outcome after they try to fix your nothing burger" and every time there is fuel in the gas. I gain about 1/2 qt+ in winter within 200 to 300 miles of a new oil change and it then slows down gaining oil and levels of to another 1/4 to 1/3qt through the rest of the 3,500 mile till I change my oil. Since I get high g force in corners and don't have a oil pan with baffles because that would void my warranty I run a bit over full all the time, so I pump out oil when it gets really high about three times in my 3,500 oil timeline. I use an oil analysis pump/jar/tube setup to get it out.

https://www.jglubricantservices.com/images/JGVP01.jpg

.


thanks this puts my mind at ease.
 
Originally Posted by Rand
Blackstone typically Under-reports fuel dilution.

Suggestions:

switch to a 30s warmup when possible.. ie if windows arent iced over etc.
Consider using a 0w30 or 5w30- a typical 0w30 is only about 20-25% thicker at 100C than a 0w20 (not 50% as you would assume from 20wt vs 30wt)
Change oil every 3k miles during cold season.. possibly extend out during warmer parts of year.


how would using a thicker oil help with the dilution? is it because the fuel wont mix as well with a thicker fluid?
 
Originally Posted by HondaBoyRacer
Originally Posted by Rand
Blackstone typically Under-reports fuel dilution.

Suggestions:

switch to a 30s warmup when possible.. ie if windows arent iced over etc.
Consider using a 0w30 or 5w30- a typical 0w30 is only about 20-25% thicker at 100C than a 0w20 (not 50% as you would assume from 20wt vs 30wt)
Change oil every 3k miles during cold season.. possibly extend out during warmer parts of year.


how would using a thicker oil help with the dilution?


It won't. A small amount of fuel is making it past the piston rings. Keep doing what you're doing.
 
Originally Posted by HondaBoyRacer
how would using a thicker oil help with the dilution? is it because the fuel wont mix as well with a thicker fluid?


Originally Posted by PowerSurge
It won't. A small amount of fuel is making it past the piston rings. Keep doing what you're doing.

Fuel dilution itself is not instant death for an engine. other contaminants in your oil such as antifreeze are very bad news. Gas not so much.

Fuel is somewhat oil like so the main concern is oil viscosity loss causing additional wear.

In your case simply stepping up in thickness to the next oil grade(0w30 or 5w30) would provide a decent buffer against viscosity loss from fuel dilution.
I still wouldn't run the oil for extended intervals but 3000-4000 miles in the winter and 5-6k in warmer months is conservative.
 
Originally Posted by Rand
[
Fuel dilution itself is not instant death for an engine..

Fuel is somewhat oil like so the main concern is oil viscosity loss causing additional wear.


True but how much does it shorten the life of the engine? I definitely reduces it.

I guess the bottom line is older technology didn't do this and it didn't reduce the life of the engine.

Then again since so many people lease for three years now, it doesn't matter because the car is borrowed and will be returned before the warranty is up.
Now the guy that buys that used lease is going to be in for a surprise.
 
Last edited:
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