2016 Mazda 3, best to remove plugs when engine is cold or hot ? This will be the first plug change. Thanks.
Spark plug removal
- Thread starter ffhdriver
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I think cold... Others? Seems to me that either the same plugs going back in should have clean/wire-brushed threads and a smidge of engine oil on said threads... or new plugs - same, engine oil - and torque up both to the lower value of the torque range if a torque range is given.
I do note you said plug change.
I do note you said plug change.
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I think most manufacturers recommend removing them cold, if the heads are warm there's supposedly a greater likelihood of stripping the threads.
Originally Posted by Cdn17Sport6MT
I think cold... Others? Seems to me that either the same plugs going back in should have clean/wire-brushed threads and a smidge of engine oil on said threads... or new plugs - same, engine oil - and torque up both to the lower value of the torque range if a torque range is given.
never heard of engine oil on threads. I'll add a dab of antisieze to the threads.
I think cold... Others? Seems to me that either the same plugs going back in should have clean/wire-brushed threads and a smidge of engine oil on said threads... or new plugs - same, engine oil - and torque up both to the lower value of the torque range if a torque range is given.
never heard of engine oil on threads. I'll add a dab of antisieze to the threads.
Antiseize lowers thread friction too much, results in overtorqued plugs, and it bakes-on making it more abusive on the threads with subsequent removal.
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Don't use anti seize, pretty much all modern plugs are plated in a way that prevent them from seizing in the head, anti seize makes it easier to over torque the plugs, just put them in dry the way the manufacturer recommends.
I've been using copper anti-seize on spark plugs for over 20 years now. Never a problem. Just don't over apply.
You will not over torque the plugs when using anti seize. Plugs are not tightened by torque, but by degrees rotation after the crushable wash contacts the head. The last set of NGKs I put in said to tighten 1/2 to 2/3 turn after crush washer contacted the head, said it right on the box.
Scott
You will not over torque the plugs when using anti seize. Plugs are not tightened by torque, but by degrees rotation after the crushable wash contacts the head. The last set of NGKs I put in said to tighten 1/2 to 2/3 turn after crush washer contacted the head, said it right on the box.
Scott
Originally Posted by SLO_Town
You will not over torque the plugs when using anti seize. Plugs are not tightened by torque, but by degrees rotation after the crushable wash contacts the head.
I am fully aware of what NGK/Denso states on their boxes. However, every OEM specs spark plug tightness by torque.
There are plenty of fasteners that specify an angle torque but spark plugs are not one of them.
You will not over torque the plugs when using anti seize. Plugs are not tightened by torque, but by degrees rotation after the crushable wash contacts the head.
I am fully aware of what NGK/Denso states on their boxes. However, every OEM specs spark plug tightness by torque.
There are plenty of fasteners that specify an angle torque but spark plugs are not one of them.
From the Bosch website.
Proper Tightening Procedure
Clean the spark plug threads and ensure the cylinder head is clean of debris.
Screw in the spark plug finger tight until the gasket meets the cylinder head. Then tighten the plug as specified below:
With a Torque Wrench:
Please note there are slight variations in torqueing recommendations between spark plug manufacturers. To find the manufacturers recommended torque setting, please enter the spark plug number in the search box. While viewing the part detail page, click on the "specs" tab. If a recommendation has been made, it will appear under the "Specifications" heading.
Without a Torque Wrench:
If a torque wrench is unavailable, finger tighten the spark plug, then use a plug wrench to tighten.
Autolite -For spark plugs with a gasket: 1/4 turn on 10mm plugs, 3/8 turn on 12mm plugs, 1/2 turn on 14mm and 18mm plugs. 1/16 turn on plugs with a tapered seat.
Bosch - 1/4 turn on plugs with a gasket. 1/16 turn on plugs with a tapered seat.
Champion - 3/8-5/8 turn on plugs with a gasket. 1/16 turn on plugs with a tapered seat.
Denso - 1/4-1/2 turn on plugs with a gasket. 1/8 turn on plugs with a tapered seat.
E3 - For spark plugs with a gasket: 1/2 turn on 10mm plugs, 3/8-1/2 turn on 12mm plugs, 1/2-3/4 turn on 14mm plugs. 1/16 turn on plugs with a tapered seat.
NGK -1/2-2/3 turn on plugs with a gasket. 1/12-1/8 turn on plugs with a tapered seat.
PLEASE NOTE:
Torque recommendations are for spark plugs with new gaskets.
If using anti-seize compound, use sparingly and reduce torque by 30%.
Each spark plug manufacturer has created their recommendations based on the general consensus of most engine manufactures. In the case of a discrepancy between the plug manufacturer and engine manufacturers recommendations, always default to the engine manufacturer.
Proper Tightening Procedure
Clean the spark plug threads and ensure the cylinder head is clean of debris.
Screw in the spark plug finger tight until the gasket meets the cylinder head. Then tighten the plug as specified below:
With a Torque Wrench:
Please note there are slight variations in torqueing recommendations between spark plug manufacturers. To find the manufacturers recommended torque setting, please enter the spark plug number in the search box. While viewing the part detail page, click on the "specs" tab. If a recommendation has been made, it will appear under the "Specifications" heading.
Without a Torque Wrench:
If a torque wrench is unavailable, finger tighten the spark plug, then use a plug wrench to tighten.
Autolite -For spark plugs with a gasket: 1/4 turn on 10mm plugs, 3/8 turn on 12mm plugs, 1/2 turn on 14mm and 18mm plugs. 1/16 turn on plugs with a tapered seat.
Bosch - 1/4 turn on plugs with a gasket. 1/16 turn on plugs with a tapered seat.
Champion - 3/8-5/8 turn on plugs with a gasket. 1/16 turn on plugs with a tapered seat.
Denso - 1/4-1/2 turn on plugs with a gasket. 1/8 turn on plugs with a tapered seat.
E3 - For spark plugs with a gasket: 1/2 turn on 10mm plugs, 3/8-1/2 turn on 12mm plugs, 1/2-3/4 turn on 14mm plugs. 1/16 turn on plugs with a tapered seat.
NGK -1/2-2/3 turn on plugs with a gasket. 1/12-1/8 turn on plugs with a tapered seat.
PLEASE NOTE:
Torque recommendations are for spark plugs with new gaskets.
If using anti-seize compound, use sparingly and reduce torque by 30%.
Each spark plug manufacturer has created their recommendations based on the general consensus of most engine manufactures. In the case of a discrepancy between the plug manufacturer and engine manufacturers recommendations, always default to the engine manufacturer.
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To the OP: Is this the Skyaktiv (1998 cc) engine?
We have a 2016 Mazda3 in the family and am asking "...what mileage you at?" I've heard COLD engine.
Also, which'll be your new plug? I suppose it's OEM or NGK.
I have 4 qts. of FZ for a trannie D&F @ 60K.
NOTE: All I want to say is that I'd use zinc (highest temp of the three) if I were to use any.
We have a 2016 Mazda3 in the family and am asking "...what mileage you at?" I've heard COLD engine.
Also, which'll be your new plug? I suppose it's OEM or NGK.
I have 4 qts. of FZ for a trannie D&F @ 60K.
NOTE: All I want to say is that I'd use zinc (highest temp of the three) if I were to use any.
Originally Posted by ffhdriver
2016 Mazda 3, best to remove plugs when engine is cold or hot ? This will be the first plug change. Thanks.
I just did my 2013 Mazda 3 with NGK Ruthenium plugs. Do it with the engine cold and I still like to use a very small amount of anti-seize. I finger tightened the plugs and then turned them 1/4 turn. These have a crush washer on them for a reason. It needs crushed down. Also, not a bad idea to invest in a magnetic 14mm spark plug socket. Can be had for $6 on Amazon.
2016 Mazda 3, best to remove plugs when engine is cold or hot ? This will be the first plug change. Thanks.
I just did my 2013 Mazda 3 with NGK Ruthenium plugs. Do it with the engine cold and I still like to use a very small amount of anti-seize. I finger tightened the plugs and then turned them 1/4 turn. These have a crush washer on them for a reason. It needs crushed down. Also, not a bad idea to invest in a magnetic 14mm spark plug socket. Can be had for $6 on Amazon.
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I have done cast iron heads slightly warm. I prefer aluminum heads to be completely cold.
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One thing I always advise is that they might feel spooky tight when using a 3/8 inch drive ratchet, cross over to 1/2 inch drive ratchet for loosening the plugs. Don't be shy with it!
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Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
One thing I always advise is that they might feel spooky tight when using a 3/8 inch drive ratchet, cross over to 1/2 inch drive socket for loosening the plugs. Don't be shy with it!
If you feel resistance in aluminum heads, work them back and forth a bit. If you just muscle them out, you could screw up some threads. If they feel tight , i switch to a small breaker bar and work it back and forth in both directions, rather than crank them out with a ratchet.
One thing I always advise is that they might feel spooky tight when using a 3/8 inch drive ratchet, cross over to 1/2 inch drive socket for loosening the plugs. Don't be shy with it!
If you feel resistance in aluminum heads, work them back and forth a bit. If you just muscle them out, you could screw up some threads. If they feel tight , i switch to a small breaker bar and work it back and forth in both directions, rather than crank them out with a ratchet.
The specified torque is 8 - 10 foot pounds installed.
This should be easy peasy, cold head, 3/8" ratchet. : )
Things tend to get strange (feel wise @ the ratchet handle) when you tackle plug swaps with even a semi-warm aluminum head engine. YMMV.
This should be easy peasy, cold head, 3/8" ratchet. : )
Things tend to get strange (feel wise @ the ratchet handle) when you tackle plug swaps with even a semi-warm aluminum head engine. YMMV.
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Originally Posted by Cdn17Sport6MT
Antiseize lowers thread friction too much, results in overtorqued plugs, and it bakes-on making it more abusive on the threads with subsequent removal.
Cite your claims.
Antiseize lowers thread friction too much, results in overtorqued plugs, and it bakes-on making it more abusive on the threads with subsequent removal.
Cite your claims.
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Remove and install sparkplugs cold. Especially true for aluminum heads. Take it easy removing them. Use a long breaker bar with gentle force to break them loose, especially if you don't know who installed them or how long ago that was.
Be careful with anti-seize - be very careful with a molybdenumdisulfide anti-seize grease. In fact do not use it.
Regardless of what the torque specs your manufacturer says, I like the angle of rotation that NKG and others spec. Used to be that torquing to specification insured that a proper amount of heat transferred to the sparkplug. With aluminum heads that is no longer an issue. I always installed plugs in my Datsun 1200 Coupe finger tight and then a little more with a wrench - maybe a 1/4". No problems. Torquing them to spec just did not feel right.
Be careful with anti-seize - be very careful with a molybdenumdisulfide anti-seize grease. In fact do not use it.
Regardless of what the torque specs your manufacturer says, I like the angle of rotation that NKG and others spec. Used to be that torquing to specification insured that a proper amount of heat transferred to the sparkplug. With aluminum heads that is no longer an issue. I always installed plugs in my Datsun 1200 Coupe finger tight and then a little more with a wrench - maybe a 1/4". No problems. Torquing them to spec just did not feel right.
I always do them cold. I want to eliminate any expansion from heat going into the job. I'll stay out of the anti seize discussion, except to say last job with NGK Iridiums, I used only enough to say used it. Thin line.
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