New F-150 2.7 EB recommendations?

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Just picked up a new 2019 F-150 with the 2.7 EB.

Truck will be a daily driver with occasional road trips, basic hauling and infrequent towing.

Have changed the oil in all of my vehicles up to now.

Planning to hold on to this truck for some time, will probably purchase an extended warranty when the factory is close to expiring. For that reason, and convenience I am considering just taking it to the dealer for servicing. Leaving which oil to use if I change it myself out of the equation for now the basic choices are:

1) Change the oil myself.
Pros- Know it's done correctly, which oil/filter is used etc.
Cons- Potential issues proving it was done for warranty, kind of a pain.

2) Have dealer do it.
Pros- easy, convenient, Ford generated documentation.
Cons- never know what exactly is being done, or not done.

Thoughts?
 
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Use any full synthetic 5w30 you like and a MC or Wix XP filter. That is the best engine in the F150. I have a 2018 5.0.
 
The owners manual gives the specs . Any oil that meets the specs will be fine.
 
If you do it yourself keep an envelop or folder with receipts and a logbook for changes.(I use a mini notebook)

My current favorite is PP 5w30 but any good brand name syn would do.

Rotella Gas truck currently has a $10 rebate on 5qt jugs(limit 4=$40) .. is a great value.

Not aware of any current M1 rebates but 1-2 times a year is very common.
 
Great engine. I have the same one in my f150. I have good results with Magnatec 5w-30 in this engine. I think this engine really is about mileage intervals. I would recommend 5,000 mile intervals.

As far as letting dealership do it, I would say it depends on the dealership. Mine I have known for over 20 years and have never had a problem. If that's the case with you, let them do.

Congrats on the new truck!
 
If you opt for your own oil changes, you might want to opt to pick up and keep on hand an extra plastic oil plug. (I think all the 2.7's have the plastic oil pan.) The plug can be reused, but some have had problems with them. Doesn't hurt to have an extra on hand. Also, there was (not sure if Ford has fixed this or not) an issue with the plastic oil pans leaking. Doing it yourself lets you keep an eye out for leaks.
 
Congrats on the new truck. Any SN+ /d1G2 oil will run fun in that eco boost motor. 5w30 is the grade. Pick your favorite brand.

Good luck with the oil drain plug. There have been some discussions here about that and the mess it makes. You might get some ideas on how to minimize that. The Ronin plug seems to be a good alternative though it is expensive. How often you change the oil will affect that decision.
 
When my daughter purchased her Fiesta it came with free oil changes from the Ford dealer. She took advantage of that for, I think, 3 years. They used Motorcraft oil and filters. No problems with the dealer changes. Now she changes her own oil.
Edit: She goes by the OLM.
 
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I have a 2017 Fusion Sport with the 2015-2016 F-150's 2.7 essentially same engine. The oil pan does leak a little. It's due to the RTV not sealing properly. Rumor is that the newer 2.7/3.0 oil pans used an actual gasket and no longer have that issue.
The factory drain plug will have a tab, while the replacements have a square 3/8" drive for a ratchet. I never had a problem using and re-using the factory plug. I used a channel lok plier to gently start the plug counter clock wise just so the locking tabs unlock, then I got my drain pan ready. It's not a big deal as many make of it, so far as to push overpriced aftermarket aluminum plugs that is a solution looking for a problem. The replacement plugs are $3-$4 each, just keep 1 or 2 on hand in case. My dad changed the oil on his 2017 Fusion Sport and managed to break part of the tab off from his factory drain plug. I re-used mine like 2 or 3 times without any problems.

I believe starting 2017, Ford went to split injection (Port and Direct injection) on the 2.7 and other truck engines, but the turbocharger compressor maps remained relatively the same. I did a thorough cross-reference type search between the transverse 2.7L EcoBoost and the truck's 2.7L EcoBoost (2015-2016 at least, pre-split injection, direct injection only). The heads, valves, cams, etc are all identical. Even the factory tunes are 99.999% identical. What is different is the turbocharger packaging, and the trucks have an engine oil cooler mounted right next to the oil filter. On the Edge/Fusion/MKZ/Continental/Nautilus/MKX the 2.7/3.0 don't have the cooler. The truck turbochargers have a slightly different compressor map, looks like they can possibly squeeze out a tad more air before hitting the choke line, plus the trucks have much larger intercoolers so you can tune them for more power.

The 2020 Explorer ST's 3.0L should have an oil cooler as well, and the 3.0's stock turbos flow a lot of air. From what I recall, they can be tuned for quite a bit more power possibly matching a tuned Raptor/Limited's High Output 3.5L EcoBoost V6. The reason I bring up the 3.0 is because it is basically a 2.7L but with more displacement, bigger turbochargers, etc... A lot of the parts interchange with the 2.7, so I find it a bit funny when people are exclaiming what a great new engine design Ford had in the 2020 Explorer ST ... except that engine came out as far back as 2017 in the MKZ/Continental, and is based on an engine that debuted in 2014 for MY15 trucks. But Ford had a hard time figuring out how to seal those plastic oil pans all those years. The 2.7/3.0s were still leaking as of model year 2019, at least on the transverse applications.

The biggest #1 thing to remember with the 2.7/3.0 is to always wait at least 15-30 minutes before checking the oil level on the dipstick. It has something to do with how the oil pan was designed for auto stop-start to keep the oil at a proper level for faster re-starts. So if you check your oil immediately or within 5 minutes of shut-down, the oil might look low but it just hasn't drained back down. Check your owner's manual for the exact verbiage. I never had a problem because I always waited for the oil to drain down, whether it was a SB Ford V8 or a modern EcoBoost. There were reports of a lot of 2.7/3.0 owners overfilling their oil, even dealers were doing it accidentally.
 
My son just purchased a 2019 F 150 with the 2.7 Eco Boost engine..really nice truck.I have always done the maintenance on his previous Nissan, but we were thinking the same thing...take it to a Ford dealer or Quick Lane location about every 5000-6000 miles to have the Ford documentation / products. Let them deal with the plastic oil drain plug and the mess.
 
Iowa mattri: Which trim level did you get?
Does every Ford F series truck get an aluminum box or is that over (as if they found something real bad with the aluminum box and discontinued it)?
 
The oil changes are very easy on the 2.7 though I hate the cartridge filter and its o'rings. The first oil change will explain the plug is a inch or so in diameter so the oil comes out fast and the feel of removing the plug will be mastered after the first oil change. It is not a problem. The previously mentioned wait about a half an hour to check the oil is the truth. I have done 9 oil changes on mine.
 
Do you have a local fast change place , that you could choose as another option ? ( One that you can trust ? )

I take it , the engine has a turbo ? Considering how rapidly it is spinning , keep that oil clean . Do not try to stretch the oil change interval and end up coasting yourself latter .
 
If you want to do the changes yourself I would come right out and ask the dealer, what do I need to do to prove I've kept up on the maintenance and see what they say?
 
Originally Posted by metroplex
I have a 2017 Fusion Sport with the 2015-2016 F-150's 2.7 essentially same engine. The oil pan does leak a little. It's due to the RTV not sealing properly. Rumor is that the newer 2.7/3.0 oil pans used an actual gasket and no longer have that issue.
The factory drain plug will have a tab, while the replacements have a square 3/8" drive for a ratchet. I never had a problem using and re-using the factory plug. I used a channel lok plier to gently start the plug counter clock wise just so the locking tabs unlock, then I got my drain pan ready. It's not a big deal as many make of it, so far as to push overpriced aftermarket aluminum plugs that is a solution looking for a problem. The replacement plugs are $3-$4 each, just keep 1 or 2 on hand in case. My dad changed the oil on his 2017 Fusion Sport and managed to break part of the tab off from his factory drain plug. I re-used mine like 2 or 3 times without any problems.

I believe starting 2017, Ford went to split injection (Port and Direct injection) on the 2.7 and other truck engines, but the turbocharger compressor maps remained relatively the same. I did a thorough cross-reference type search between the transverse 2.7L EcoBoost and the truck's 2.7L EcoBoost (2015-2016 at least, pre-split injection, direct injection only). The heads, valves, cams, etc are all identical. Even the factory tunes are 99.999% identical. What is different is the turbocharger packaging, and the trucks have an engine oil cooler mounted right next to the oil filter. On the Edge/Fusion/MKZ/Continental/Nautilus/MKX the 2.7/3.0 don't have the cooler. The truck turbochargers have a slightly different compressor map, looks like they can possibly squeeze out a tad more air before hitting the choke line, plus the trucks have much larger intercoolers so you can tune them for more power.

The 2020 Explorer ST's 3.0L should have an oil cooler as well, and the 3.0's stock turbos flow a lot of air. From what I recall, they can be tuned for quite a bit more power possibly matching a tuned Raptor/Limited's High Output 3.5L EcoBoost V6. The reason I bring up the 3.0 is because it is basically a 2.7L but with more displacement, bigger turbochargers, etc... A lot of the parts interchange with the 2.7, so I find it a bit funny when people are exclaiming what a great new engine design Ford had in the 2020 Explorer ST ... except that engine came out as far back as 2017 in the MKZ/Continental, and is based on an engine that debuted in 2014 for MY15 trucks. But Ford had a hard time figuring out how to seal those plastic oil pans all those years. The 2.7/3.0s were still leaking as of model year 2019, at least on the transverse applications.

The biggest #1 thing to remember with the 2.7/3.0 is to always wait at least 15-30 minutes before checking the oil level on the dipstick. It has something to do with how the oil pan was designed for auto stop-start to keep the oil at a proper level for faster re-starts. So if you check your oil immediately or within 5 minutes of shut-down, the oil might look low but it just hasn't drained back down. Check your owner's manual for the exact verbiage. I never had a problem because I always waited for the oil to drain down, whether it was a SB Ford V8 or a modern EcoBoost. There were reports of a lot of 2.7/3.0 owners overfilling their oil, even dealers were doing it accidentally.


Best to always check the dipstick level, when the vehicle has sat overnight and is cold..... meaning prior to first use of that particular day - prior to starting the engine
 
Quote
The reason I bring up the 3.0 is because it is basically a 2.7L but with more displacement, bigger turbochargers, etc....


The 3.0 has the major difference of being a lighter duty, all aluminum block, engine meant for transverse applications. The 2.7 was designed for a lot heavier use in longitudinal mounting. The 2.7 has a Compacted Graphite (CGI) engine block for a reason, like the 6.7 diesel.
 
Thanks for all the great replies.

Yes the box is al and yes it has twin turbos.

I got the XLT, usually just got XLs in the past.

I'll prob change the oil myself the first time, see how it goes from there.

Would a syn blend perhaps be good for the first change, help with ring seating etc until switching to a full synthetic?
 
I actually broke off one of those pan plug locking tangs on the wife's nautilus. I recommend having the engine fully warmed up when dealing with that plug, the plastic tangs are a bit more pliable and spread more easily when taking it off. The small o ring on the filter stem does better if warmed up a bit. I boil some water in the microwave then let that o ring sit in it for about 5 minutes. It's much more pliable when trying to slip it over the oil filter casing stem. Don't boil the water with the o ring in it, boil the water separate then let the o ring get heated up in the water before trying the install.
 
Originally Posted by tcp71
Quote
The reason I bring up the 3.0 is because it is basically a 2.7L but with more displacement, bigger turbochargers, etc....


The 3.0 has the major difference of being a lighter duty, all aluminum block, engine meant for transverse applications. The 2.7 was designed for a lot heavier use in longitudinal mounting. The 2.7 has a Compacted Graphite (CGI) engine block for a reason, like the 6.7 diesel.


My Fusion Sport's 2.7 has the same /cams/rods/heads/etc... as the truck because they are the same engine minus turbo/block packaging and transverse/longitudinal items (timing cover, etc...) I'm not sure if the 3.0 has the CGI block, but they share a lot of parts with the 2.7 like the plastic oil pans, etc... And the 3.0 is used in longitudinal applications now as well (Explorer ST). The F-150 2.7 turbo compressor maps are 99.9% the same as the transverse 2.7 turbo compressor maps. The F-150 has the upper edge of a bigger intercooler which helps cool off the charged air a lot better.

When Ford issued the TSBs for the leaky oil pans, the 3.0 was in there along with the 2.7s (same part as long as we are talking apples to apples w/r to transverse or longitudinal).

The 3.0 can be tuned to 550 hp or more just with a tune, so these engines are fairly stout. But given the choice I'd go with the 3.5L EcoBoost in the trucks because it is in every way the better engine. When you select the max towing package on the F-150, you automatically get the 3.5L EcoBoost, not the wimpy 2.7L EcoBoost.

As for the O-rings on the filter, you don't need to change them every single time. When GM used that style of filter, they did not include new O-rings with the PF457G filter. You had to buy another assembly that had the PF457G filter, new oil cap, and new O-ring to get the O-ring.
 
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