Need oil additive advise for replacement engine.

Joined
Sep 11, 2015
Messages
19
Location
TX
The original 3.8L GDI engine in my daily driver 2013 Genesis Coupe lasted over 100k miles then ceased due to bad bearings despite regular 5k mile OCIs and Blackstone UOAs showing good wear #s on Mobil1 full synth 5w30 and oem filters. It had 1qt of oil burn every 5k miles that developed late and I kept it topped off.

Now the replacement 3.8L engine with around 60k miles that's out of a front collision Genesis has 2qt of oil burn every 5k miles and the UOAs show higher wear #s as well despite the lower miles. I'm wondering if people here that I've seen have much more experience than myself with oils believe that changing from Mobil1 to Amsoil along with using a oil additive like LM MoS2, Lubegard Biotech or Archoil 9100 would improve the UOA wear #s and help extend engine life.

The dealership service supervisor advised the MoS2 which they do sell btw wouldn't have prevented the bearings from going bad in my previous engine and advised that I not waste money on it but I want 2nd opinions here.

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I would think a modern oil designed for GDI engines may be your best choice along with shorter intervals if it is gas dilution that harmed your bearings. You may try an expensive short run of the high ester Premium Blue restore to see if it's a ring land coking problem causing the oil burn. If you are going to spend Amsoil money going forward you may consider Red Line which has higher ester levels or Ravenol which is mostly PAO but with certifications.
 
Gas dilution #s on both engines is only <0.5 so that shouldn't be the cause. Thanks for your help.
 
I'm sorry, OP. Your car sounds like a complete disaster. You took great care of it with 5k M1 changes. No daily driver engine should have blown up with that care.

Why throw good money after bad? There is no magical elixer in this case.
 
Could be Greg and I'm considering that as well. I forgot to mention that in the 1st oil change at 500 miles after the engine install with dino oil in it I found a couple of 1" long silver colored non ferrous metal hair like pieces in the oil filter but I didn't find any pieces in the 2nd oil change with the synth oil.
 
OP, cut your losses and find another car. 2 Quarts consumed in 5K miles just spells another future disaster. 60K and wear metal being higher sounds like an abused engine.
 
I'm with mv6845 on this as well. With burning two qts very 5k, I'd find another engine. What, if any, are the options for a rebuild?
 
2 quarts sounds bad... still having payed for the engine, you must try and get something out of it.

Valvoline Blue Restore (expensive) to try and free up stuck piston rings, restore clogged oil passages.

Hyundai/Kia factory fill in Europe is Total oil- with tons of organo moly (800ppm), is a better option than disulfite moly in LM MOS2.
https://catalog.lubricants.total.com/en/products/47w-6/QUARTZ-9000-ENERGY-HKS-G-310-5W-30
If not available in the US, get the highest containing zddp and/or boron and moly oil you can find (these are the anti-wear, film forming, surface coating additives in oil) or Valvoline Maxlife/Castrol Magnatec with 1 additive of your choice(I like the MoS2, but we dont get the others here so I have no clue on them).
Good luck to you.
 
A thicker oil may help more than a brand change. Either way oil can't solve the problems associated with a bad or inferior design ...

Did Hyundai help with the replacement engine and was your engine under a recall?
Hyundai has a great customer service. One of the best I've seen.

According to experts here, oil additives are like snake oil. I've bought some and never noticed any significant change.
 
You could try a thicker oil with higher levels of aw additives but there's also a good chance you got yourself another "bad" engine (the metal could be coming from the journals) with a bearings/crankshaft problem and it's just a matter of time before you spin those bearings as well. Bad conrod bearings can contribute or make oil burning worse too - and you say this engines already burning 2qts every 5k? This seems to happen to some of the first gen Genesis. Some speculation that it's a unbalanced crankshaft from the factory.

If you're not too invested in the car I'd sell it while you might be able to get something out of it, otherwise there's not a whole lot you can do other than just wait and see what transpires. Forget the pour in additives.. just buy a better oil with the addys you seek but just know that no oil is gonna "fix" a bearings issue, it's just a matter of time before those ones go.
 
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NO magic band aids, sorry.

M1 isnt magic either.


Burning calls for Rotella T3 10W30 Dino oil .

I havent been able to find it anywhere in jugs, just 5gal pails.

OTW just run Formula Shell or QSGB
 
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
NO magic band aids, sorry.

M1 isnt magic either.


Burning calls for Rotella T3 10W30 Dino oil .

I havent been able to find it anywhere in jugs, just 5gal pails.

OTW just run Formula Shell or QSGB


So Rotella is a band aid when you said there is "no magic band aids".
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Originally Posted by dogememe
Tell me again how Hyunkias are so great? Lol 2qts/5k = sell the car NOW.

No Hyundai fan boy here, and I'm certainly no fan of DI, but there are plenty of late model vehicles using more oil than that in 5K miles. Taking them back to the dealership the customer is told it is normal, and they're send packing. Spent bearings are another story, my comment is based on the consumption amount mentioned here.
 
If its the rings - use BG EPR - - -
it will clean them up like nothing else.
Skip the blue restore - too expensive
 
Thats 1 quart every 2.5k - - - -not really bad.
I have had expensive audis that did MUCH worse - - try 1 quart for every 600miles!!!!!!!!!!! - - -
 
Originally Posted by tig1
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
NO magic band aids, sorry.

M1 isnt magic either.


Burning calls for Rotella T3 10W30 Dino oil .

I havent been able to find it anywhere in jugs, just 5gal pails.

OTW just run Formula Shell or QSGB


So Rotella is a band aid when you said there is "no magic band aids".
21.gif



Yes. no Magic band aids.

Now why didn't that M1 diet protect his engine ?
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Last edited:
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Now why didn't that M1 diet protect his engine ?

Because as it has always been with any appropriately rated oil, it isn't about the oil it's about the engine. No appropriately rated oil kills an engine, poor design or a defect kills an engine.
 
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