Ford drain plugs

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the Oil filter location on the 1.6 Escape is not the bad in my opinion. I just push the hoses out the way and i can get the filter on and off without too much trouble and wipe everything off after the new filter is installed, I have a harder time on my 97 t-bird where you have to turn your arm in practically 3 different directions to get the old filter on and off.



I've changed oil on worse vehicles from the 90's where the filters are in such a location you have to reach over or around an exhaust manifold burning your arm in the process or sometimes even having to lift a vehicle up remove a wheel to gain access to the oil filter with a wrench because there isn't enough room to get a wrench on it from underneath.


the 2.7's aren't terrible to change oil on either as long as you research what you are doing and have an idea what is going to happen when the plug comes out. the first time we changed it one person held the drain pan up as close to the oil pan as possible and the other turned and pulled the plug and there was no mess. On a positive note most of the oil is drained in 10 seconds
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the only thing I don't like about the 2.7 oil change is you have to wait 10 to 15 min to make sure all the oil is out from the top end and again wait 10 to 15 min to check the oil after you fill and run it.
 
Not all F150's have that screwy oil pan drain plug. If your oil pan is black plastic, then you have it. My 2019 F150 with 3.5 ecoboost has an aluminum oil pan and a conventional threaded drain plug. Don't know why, but I'm glad it's there. For convenience, replaced that with a Fumoto and all is good.
The oil filter location and drainage for oil that leaks when replacing the filter is really nice as well; straight down, not touching anything enroute to a drain pan. MUCH better than the oil filter location on the Ram with 5.7 hemi I traded. Oil filter changes on that ALWAYS resulted in a mess, with oil all over the electric power steering and other components. First time I changed the oil on the Ram, I severely cursed the lineage of the "engineer" that specified that filter location.
 
Originally Posted by Olas
fumoto or vacuum out the top or fab a steel pan with a proper plug.


1. you can't suction oil out of the 2.7. The dipstick path has restricted flow. Which also means you have to know what you put in there. People overfill these when the stick reads low immediately after refilling, then add more, then uhoh.

2. it's a messy design, OTOH the clip is easy to use, and I have no issues with a stuck drain bolt.

3. the splash is ridiculous.

4. I've picked up the overpriced ronin plug for next OC. I think it will be a slower process with it than with the oem plug, but I'm interested in trying it with a hose to see if I like it.

I'm under this thing less than 2x per year, running 10-30 syn to at least 7,500 miles, unlike in the past when it was every quarter with every car in the family - there may be an added PITA for splash control, but it's not as often as "old school." I'm more concerned about 2 recalls, the beginning or rear end whine, and a full dashboard removal for a busted recirc servo, all within 2 years of ownership. Drives and handles like a dream, though, and has the best mpg I've known in such a beast.
 
Use a 1 gallon zip lock freezer bag when you remove the drain plug. Slide the bag over the plug and use the bag to catch and direct the used oil into your catch pan. Just wear gloves if the oil is warm. I have done this for years when removing filters and drain plugs that are in a horrible positions and I want to avoid huge spills and splatters.
 
I watched some of the YouTube vidoes about this drain plug and it truly does look messy. But I don't like that expensive aftermarket solution either. It will leave quite a bit of oil inside from the looks of it.
I would probably rig up a funnel with a metal screen to catch the plug.

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