Proper Brake Bleeding Sequence

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Where can I find the proper brake bleeding sequence for the cars in my sig? Plus a '09 Highlander, a '09 IS350, '08 CR-V and a '13 4Runner?

Or does it even matter? I normally have gone RR, LR, RF and LF.
 
Originally Posted by Gebo
Where can I find the proper brake bleeding sequence for the cars in my sig? Plus a '09 Highlander, a '09 IS350, '08 CR-V and a '13 4Runner?

Or does it even matter? I normally have gone RR, LR, RF and LF.


In the age of ABS, it can vary by vehicle. Get a good service manual for each vehicle and it will tell you. Some vehicles you *cannot* bleed without a special service tool or scanner.
 
Shop manual.

Maybe online U_tuba videos also.

I Know our Subaru has a specific order. Then there is the ABS activation and purge. There are ALDL port or other shadetree cheats to activate a ABS purge cycle.

I cant do that, I hate brake fluid - so I pay the $$ for the Stealer do it.

Brakes are still spongy ! But Fluid is clean.

If you dont CURRENTY have air in the system and a soft pedal, it likely doesn't matter thinking logically about it.

but IDK.
 
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I'm interested in the answer. Why do so many service manuals have a sequence that is different than the old recommendation of start farthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest? Does it matter?
 
Are you bleeding or exchanging? If you have air in the system, I could see it mattering. But, if it's just a fluid change, how could it matter, other than maybe you waste some fluid?

I'm not sure how the fluid inside the ABS pump could go bad, it's a long ways from either end. Any moisture in that fluid would have had to migrate slowly to it--and if it could migrate to it, then I can migrate away from it, by the same mechanism. IMO, change the fluid in the master, then pull what can be through the lines, and call it a day.
 
For the yotas I'd get techstream and let it run the valves and tell you how to do it.

My prius noticed an air bubble and would not let itself get out of "Park" until repaired. On power-on self test it noticed a lack of resistance/ pressure buildup.
 
Originally Posted by doitmyself
I'm interested in the answer. Why do so many service manuals have a sequence that is different than the old recommendation of start farthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest? Does it matter?


It does matter because brake plumbing is now quite a lot different than they used to be - the piping is routed differently, there can be four separate circuits instead of two and that's before you get into the ABS valving blocks' internal plumbing.

Yes, it does matter. Do it wrong and you may not be able to get a stubborn air bubble out or worse.
 
Isn't the bleeding sequence supposed to be shortest brake line first progressively leading to the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder, at least it was before ABS made things more complicated.
 
Originally Posted by barryh
Isn't the bleeding sequence supposed to be shortest brake line first progressively leading to the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder, at least it was before ABS made things more complicated.


It was longest to shortest for the (no pun intended) longest time. Not so much anymore.
 
With my Jeep and truck I think the rear matters more so than the front order wise since the front has independent lines. The rear has one line with a distribution block going to both rear wheels.

Depending on the location of the block be it the left or right axle tube, you'd want to bleed the wheel opposite to that first. Ie on the rear left axle tube, do the rear right wheel first as that's technically the furthest bleeder.
 
I would just start at the rear brakes open up the bleeder and let it run out. Make sure you keep an eye on the fill reservoir and add as needed. Pump the brakes, hold it down, open valve, close valve, repeat until no air is visible in the bleeder hose.
 
My opinion is if you do it often enough this method should be adequate...

Use a turkey baster and remove as much of the old fluid from the master as possible without getting it low enough to introduce air into the system. Gently fill master with new fluid. Start at wheel furthest from the master, add vacuum pump to bleeder, crack bleeder and extract fluid until it runs "clean". Tighten bleeder, re-fill master and move on to the next furthest wheel. Continue for all four corners, top off master and you are done.

It might not be perfect, but its way more than most people do, and seems to be good enough to give good service life.
 
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If you can find the ABS/ESP modulator the wheel positions are more than likely marked near the outlet fittings. I find working off that starting with the farthest wheel works if there is a sequence. Otherwise work on a diagonal split or rear axle/front axle.

Some cars will need the scan tool to run a service routine for the modulator, disable brake by wire and allow for the front wheels to be bled conventionally, discharge an accumulator or "home" the actuator pistons/solenoids to allow for bleeding.
 
Originally Posted by doitmyself
I'm interested in the answer. Why do so many service manuals have a sequence that is different than the old recommendation of start farthest from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest? Does it matter?

The "old" recommendation is just that, "old". Will it be a massive failure if it's done that way ? Not likely.

Reference the factory service manual always (if available). They don't choose arbitrary starting corners and sequence just to be different. My Infiniti G35 sequence is right-rear, front left, rear left, front right. The master cylinder is in the front left. So, right-rear done first makes sense the old-fashioned way. But then it should be left-rear but it's not. You'd think that was the last corner to be bled, right ?
 
Originally Posted by Gebo
I normally have gone RR, LR, RF and LF.


Do you pressure or vacuum bleed? I do the exact opposite and use a vacuum bleeder. I could swear I read in the tool's manual some 20 years ago to go in the opposite sequence when vacuum bleeding, and it's been just fine. If you have a problem, you can always repeat the procedure the other way and the fluid will be even cleaner.
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Gebo
I normally have gone RR, LR, RF and LF.


Do you pressure or vacuum bleed? I do the exact opposite and use a vacuum bleeder. I could swear I read in the tool's manual some 20 years ago to go in the opposite sequence when vacuum bleeding, and it's been just fine. If you have a problem, you can always repeat the procedure the other way and the fluid will be even cleaner.


Pressure. I got the one that you hook to the valve stem of your left front tire and adjust it to 15 lbs.
 
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