Any reason to use synthetic if you change your oil every 3-4k in DI engine?

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My understanding is that synthetics are great for long OCI's but if you run short OCI's there's no need to use them. I have a DI engine that requires oil changes ever 3-4k because of the driving conditions I have. Is there any reason not to use conventional/blend in my situation? In the dead of winter I use synthetic because of the extreme cold but I'm talking about spring/summer/fall now.
 
Just price alone -- Synthetic can be bought cheaper then conventional these days. When is the last time you were at Wal Marts oil/filter section? Super Tech Full Synthetic $14.88 for 5 quarts. What are you paying for conventional 5 quarts these days? Just one point in general. Have a good day.

Dale
 
No and remember, even today, cars that require synthetic are not as common as people seem to think. People think modern Hondas "require" synthetic because they spec 0W-20 and they think that because (old thinking) 0W-20 was only available in full synthetic. Even Honda sells synthetic blend in 0W-20 today. Or one of the Ford specs for engine oil correlates to Motorcraft synthetic blend (in the US) but in Canada, Motorcraft sells conventional oil that meets that same spec.

That said, as noted already, you can get quality synthetic engine oil for $16 for 5 quarts ! Even name-brand engine oils like Castrol are frequently on sale for $22 for 5 quarts.
 
Synthetics beat conventional in more than just longevity. What DI engine doesn't say to use full synthetic in the manual anyway?
 
Just stick with synthetic. The price is equal or not that much more than conventional. For example you can get Havoline Pro DS in the six quart box for less than $20.
 
I have a cx5 di and the manual gives only specs like sn which can be found in the MC blend for example.
to my understanding full syn is better in all the fields not just longevity,it flows better in the cold,it hold against heat better,it keeps its viscosity better ex.
 
I'd use the cheapest thing you can find that meet the specs you need. With rebates syn is going to be cheaper than conventional/blends.
 
Originally Posted by hatt
I'd use the cheapest thing you can find that meet the specs you need. With rebates syn is going to be cheaper than conventional/blends.

if you change your own.
 
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
What DI engine doesn't say to use full synthetic in the manual anyway?

Ford recommends owners use an engine oil that meets spec "WSS-blah-blah-blah" for their Fusions. Motorcraft, Ford's own brand of aftermarket parts, sells a fully conventional oil that meets that same spec. The oil life monitor typically runs 8000-10000 miles before it says the oil needs changed. Oh, the horror !
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Most if not all DI engines that don't have a turbo will call for 0w20 in the manual. You would have to go out of your way to find a syn blend 0w20 and conventional 0w20 doesn't exist.
 
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
You would have to go out of your way to find a syn blend 0w20

Walk into a Honda dealer's part department. Walmart sells a Quaker State syn-blend in 0W-20. Reality is, the price points on retail shelves between a conventional 0W-20, blend, and full synthetic would be so tight it just doesn't make sense. Plus, retailers would not give up 3x the shelf space when (1) product will sell well enough and covers all bases (that being the full synthetic).
 
In some ways synthetic is like an iPhone you don't really need. IPhone 8,9,10,+, etc. but since race car drivers are using it, so should you.

I've had or still have cars over 400K, 370K, 200K+ miles all on dino ...
None of my Owner's manual ever specified synthetic.

If you are not racing or redlining the engine and not doing extended oci, dino will work.
The only reason I use syn in couple of our cars is to extend the oci ... Don't like to change oil when it's raining all the time
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Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
You would have to go out of your way to find a syn blend 0w20

Walk into a Honda dealer's part department. Walmart sells a Quaker State syn-blend in 0W-20. Reality is, the price points on retail shelves between a conventional 0W-20, blend, and full synthetic would be so tight it just doesn't make sense. Plus, retailers would not give up 3x the shelf space when (1) product will sell well enough and covers all bases (that being the full synthetic).

Again, there is no Conventional 0w20. And the ratio of 0w20 SB to 0w20 FS is like 1:100

Walking into a Honda Dealer to buy oil would be.... Going out of my way. I've never seen a 0w20 Syn Blend on the shelf at walmart ever.
 
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Originally Posted by Whammo
My understanding is that synthetics are great for long OCI's but if you run short OCI's there's no need to use them. I have a DI engine that requires oil changes ever 3-4k because of the driving conditions I have. Is there any reason not to use conventional/blend in my situation? In the dead of winter I use synthetic because of the extreme cold but I'm talking about spring/summer/fall now.

Synthetics usually have lower NOACK/ASTM D5800 ratings than conventional or semi-syns, though not necessarily. A lower NOACK will help prevent intake valve deposits.

Another reason is if you have a Turbo, increasingly common nowadays, but you didn't list your application.
 
Stick with the synthetic, it's not just for the cold but for the heat of summer.
 
Originally Posted by Eddie
NO is the correct answer, but with today's lower synthetic prices and your doing your own oil changes, why not? Ed

I think you answered your own question: There is no difference at that OCI.
 
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