Why use a "synthetic blend"?

[CT8]

Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Imp4
Originally Posted by CT8
What is the difference in engine life between the oils on Walmart shelve. I see engines lasting just as long on semi or conventional as syn oils.

There is typically no discernable difference. The only thing a syn oil does is enable the user to extend change intervals.
This may or may not be a benefit for a particular user.

Using synthetic oils does not result in magic longer engine life.
There are too many other influencing factors.


Wrong
Syns keep TGDI/GDI engines cleaner and are beneficial when extreme low temps and extreme high temps occur, both outside the engine and inside the engine.
If manufacturers already broke the engine-in - prior to product retail sale, the factory oil would be full syn.

It's always been a good rule-of-thumb from many BITOGERs here and many vehicle mechanics online, to allow 3K after new vehicle purchase, before running full synthetic oils.

That's when the added benefit of having full syn starts paying better dividends. Keep your factory-fill in for a while. Odds are, it's conventional or semi-syn and good for the new engine break-in.

If your new vehicle comes with full syn, then that's a sign the manufacturer trusts the new engine already has the right digital parts-specs for that engine and either none or very little additional break-in period is needed.

There is little fact in what you have posted.

 

[csandste]

As stated above if it's SN+ it's a blend, and if that blend is sold as a conventional the cost at an oil change place will be WAY cheaper. Change your own, use a cheap syn like ST or Harvest King.

If you go back to the dawn of BITOG seems like there was a lot of discussion that a conventional with a stout add pack like PYB would top a cheap group 3. Don't hear that any more.

 

[wdn]

How about: Prime Series API SN Plus is $21.48 for a case of 12 quart at Sam's Club. That is $1.79 a quart. That is a good reason.

 

[Black_Thunder]

i generally only buy syn blend now if its a high mileage oil that i feel is needed or there is a clearance sale.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Originally Posted by CT8
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Imp4
Originally Posted by CT8
What is the difference in engine life between the oils on Walmart shelve. I see engines lasting just as long on semi or conventional as syn oils.

There is typically no discernable difference. The only thing a syn oil does is enable the user to extend change intervals.
This may or may not be a benefit for a particular user.

Using synthetic oils does not result in magic longer engine life.
There are too many other influencing factors.


Wrong
Syns keep TGDI/GDI engines cleaner and are beneficial when extreme low temps and extreme high temps occur, both outside the engine and inside the engine.
If manufacturers already broke the engine-in - prior to product retail sale, the factory oil would be full syn.

It's always been a good rule-of-thumb from many BITOGERs here and many vehicle mechanics online, to allow 3K after new vehicle purchase, before running full synthetic oils.

That's when the added benefit of having full syn starts paying better dividends. Keep your factory-fill in for a while. Odds are, it's conventional or semi-syn and good for the new engine break-in.

If your new vehicle comes with full syn, then that's a sign the manufacturer trusts the new engine already has the right digital parts-specs for that engine and either none or very little additional break-in period is needed.

There is little fact in what you have posted.



Please give us the facts.

 

[mk378]

No one ever said how much synthetic was in their "blend." It could be less than 1%. The whole thing was nothing but marketing hype from the beginning.

 

[DrDanger]

It has been mentioned here before. A good Group II oil is very close to a synt Group III oil. And more polar. Would oil companies give you a far better product for 2$ more?
How about 3$. Lower sulfur and lower acidity have their benefits... but unless you are making use of them by running a longer OCI it would not matter much.
Group III is preferable but its just a Group II cleaned up(and with slightly better Viscosity Index).

 

[Astro_Guy]

I can't think of any reason to use either conventional or a synthetic blend.

 

[Navi]

I used to buy filters from RockAuto but then I thought what if there are counterfeit filters out there. RockAuto has some good parts but I dont really know them so well. Walmart, Pep Boys, etc are national chains, well known and thus I feel better grabbing a filter from there. The other thing about mailorder is its mailorder. Sometimes you cant wait and need a store to go into right there. Walmart seems the place to go when you really need something. A one stop shop.

 

[madeej11]

Why use a synthetic blend? In certain instances it seemed guys were getting better UOA's with it. Like Magnatec syn blend vs. Magnatec full syn on Ecoboost engines. Probably the exception though rather than the rule of thumb as far as which one to use.

 

[4WD]

Well, we just covered the line between GII+ and GIII … and sure lots of $15/jug "synthetics" that rode the tide with three major base stock suppliers doing plant upgrades for GII+ ...
One big target is minimum cost to meet Dexos ! Just saying ...

 

[The_Nuke]

Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by CT8
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Imp4

There is typically no discernable difference. The only thing a syn oil does is enable the user to extend change intervals.
This may or may not be a benefit for a particular user.

Using synthetic oils does not result in magic longer engine life.
There are too many other influencing factors.


Wrong
Syns keep TGDI/GDI engines cleaner and are beneficial when extreme low temps and extreme high temps occur, both outside the engine and inside the engine.
If manufacturers already broke the engine-in - prior to product retail sale, the factory oil would be full syn.

It's always been a good rule-of-thumb from many BITOGERs here and many vehicle mechanics online, to allow 3K after new vehicle purchase, before running full synthetic oils.

That's when the added benefit of having full syn starts paying better dividends. Keep your factory-fill in for a while. Odds are, it's conventional or semi-syn and good for the new engine break-in.

If your new vehicle comes with full syn, then that's a sign the manufacturer trusts the new engine already has the right digital parts-specs for that engine and either none or very little additional break-in period is needed.

There is little fact in what you have posted.



Please give us the facts.


Facts?!?

This the internet, he don't need no stinking facts!!

🤣🤣🤣

 

[Triple_Se7en]

OK. I didn't' think he had any counter-facts anyways.
Offer him a can of Glade spray for all that stink then.

 

[bbhero]

 

[csandste]

Originally Posted by mk378
No one ever said how much synthetic was in their "blend." It could be less than 1%. The whole thing was nothing but marketing hype from the beginning.

It might be a blend but it would need close to 50% group 3_to meet SN/SN+. 5-20,5-30 only. Certain basestocks from Exxon Mobil can meet SN+ with Group 2+.

 

[Pat in Speedway]

I use Phillips 66 Shield Choice syn-blend in our ‘10 Corolla. When I get it on sale every couple of months at Orscheln for $1.99/qt, run 5-6k miles, have lower than universal average wear on the UOA with 4 TBN remaining after 5k miles, why not use it? Heck, half the cost of my change is in the Toyota filter I run on it.

 

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted by Navi
Walmart is the oil change headquarters and at the headquarters building for $22 you get 5 quarts of your favorite variety. So why would anyone grab semi synthetic when they have full synthetic every where?


I guess the question back to you would be why not conventional over synthetic if wear is the only important issue?

Answer = The reason for semi synthetic is because conventional motor oil has some natural antiwear properties that get "cooked" out of synthetic.
Modern day synthetics do make up for that loss with the proper additives.

Anyway, semi synthetic would have the best of both worlds IF you are a person to change your oil on time.
Oil is oil, synthetic oil is a super stable oil that will last a long time between changes, conventional oil is a great oil to prevent engine wear.
Most all oils carry the same API rating, anyway, change your oil on time of before and conventional oil will do everything the same as synthetics, in some cases even better, at the least, there is no difference as far as the consumer knows, when both have the same API rating.

 

[mpgo4th]

Originally Posted by csandste
Originally Posted by mk378
No one ever said how much synthetic was in their "blend." It could be less than 1%. The whole thing was nothing but marketing hype from the beginning.

It might be a blend but it would need close to 50% group 3_to meet SN/SN+. 5-20,5-30 only. Certain basestocks from Exxon Mobil can meet SN+ with Group 2+.


I spoke to a Chevron chemist about the choices in their line for my work fleet. I was told that Chevron supreme, which is technically a blend and SN+, is around 80% group 2 and 20% group 3. While their Havoline syn blend is closer to 60/40 groups 2 and 3. I wouldn't take that as the actual formula, just an example of their particular brand level tiering.

 

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted by wdn
I dispute that Walmart is the world headquarters for anything, but will buy motor oil online from them if and only if they offer the best deal including shipping. They are not cheaper than Costco or Sam's Club on motor oil, rarely beat Amazon, and are never cheaper than Rock Auto for oil filters.


Ummm ... all you need to do is open your webbroswer and check the oil prices on Walmart and rip off Amazon (yes I hate Amazon, all things evil)
Anyway, Walmarts full 5/30 synthetic is $17.47 - Amazon $24.99 (oh wait, now the Amazon is tracking my browser the cost is only $22.99 still a rip off), never mind Walmart will ship it next day if your order hits $35, way better then Amazons up to 10 day delivery.
Anyway, its almost laughable that people think Amazon is their friend and always has the best price.
People fooled so easy.

 

[PimTac]

Originally Posted by alarmguy
Originally Posted by wdn
I dispute that Walmart is the world headquarters for anything, but will buy motor oil online from them if and only if they offer the best deal including shipping. They are not cheaper than Costco or Sam's Club on motor oil, rarely beat Amazon, and are never cheaper than Rock Auto for oil filters.


Ummm ... all you need to do is open your webbroswer and check the oil prices on Walmart and rip off Amazon (yes I hate Amazon, all things evil)
Anyway, Walmarts full 5/30 synthetic is $6 less then Amazon, never mind Walmart will ship it next day if your order hits $35, way better then Amazons up to 10 day delivery.
Anyway, its almost laughable that people think Amazon is their friend and always has the best price.
People fooled so easy



And to add, both oils come from the same blender.