CRC GDI Valve and Turbo cleaner
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In my opinion, using it has the potential to scratch your cylinder walls when bits of carbon get sucked into the combustion chamber. That can cause an issue you don't want, like less cylinder pressure from the wear you induced via the cleaning process.
Originally Posted by Jimzz
I usually use carb cleaner to soften up any major gunk. Then use the CRC right after. Seems to work better than CRC alone.
Never seen it break anything major off when it cleans. Just turns it to black liquid.
I just bought a low mileage MKC with the 2.0L ecoboost. I wouldn't think with 28K miles that there would be a lot of crud on the intake yet, but could be wrong. Mainly just want to do a cleaning now and another one soon to hedge off any future gunk.
Thanks for your info !
I usually use carb cleaner to soften up any major gunk. Then use the CRC right after. Seems to work better than CRC alone.
Never seen it break anything major off when it cleans. Just turns it to black liquid.
I just bought a low mileage MKC with the 2.0L ecoboost. I wouldn't think with 28K miles that there would be a lot of crud on the intake yet, but could be wrong. Mainly just want to do a cleaning now and another one soon to hedge off any future gunk.
Thanks for your info !
I used it. I used1/2 a can. I don't know how to see results. I think I will use it before every oil change in the mazda to hope fully prevent valve build up.
Originally Posted by skyactiv
In my opinion, using it has the potential to scratch your cylinder walls when bits of carbon get sucked into the combustion chamber. That can cause an issue you don't want, like less cylinder pressure from the wear you induced via the cleaning process.
I get your concern. But my thoughts are, I'd rather have a few smaller bits that might blow out the exhaust. Rather than let it build up and a really large deposit build up, come off the valve and rattle around the cylinder, causing more of the damage you describe.
In my opinion, using it has the potential to scratch your cylinder walls when bits of carbon get sucked into the combustion chamber. That can cause an issue you don't want, like less cylinder pressure from the wear you induced via the cleaning process.
I get your concern. But my thoughts are, I'd rather have a few smaller bits that might blow out the exhaust. Rather than let it build up and a really large deposit build up, come off the valve and rattle around the cylinder, causing more of the damage you describe.
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Originally Posted by kstanf150
Originally Posted by Jimzz
I usually use carb cleaner to soften up any major gunk. Then use the CRC right after. Seems to work better than CRC alone.
Never seen it break anything major off when it cleans. Just turns it to black liquid.
I just bought a low mileage MKC with the 2.0L ecoboost. I wouldn't think with 28K miles that there would be a lot of crud on the intake yet, but could be wrong. Mainly just want to do a cleaning now and another one soon to hedge off any future gunk.
Thanks for your info !
Yea go for it. Do it every 25-30k and you should be good. Your low miles mean there is very little there most likely. So good time to start and keep it clean.
Originally Posted by Jimzz
I usually use carb cleaner to soften up any major gunk. Then use the CRC right after. Seems to work better than CRC alone.
Never seen it break anything major off when it cleans. Just turns it to black liquid.
I just bought a low mileage MKC with the 2.0L ecoboost. I wouldn't think with 28K miles that there would be a lot of crud on the intake yet, but could be wrong. Mainly just want to do a cleaning now and another one soon to hedge off any future gunk.
Thanks for your info !
Yea go for it. Do it every 25-30k and you should be good. Your low miles mean there is very little there most likely. So good time to start and keep it clean.
Originally Posted by Jimzz
Originally Posted by kstanf150
Originally Posted by Jimzz
I usually use carb cleaner to soften up any major gunk. Then use the CRC right after. Seems to work better than CRC alone.
Never seen it break anything major off when it cleans. Just turns it to black liquid.
I just bought a low mileage MKC with the 2.0L ecoboost. I wouldn't think with 28K miles that there would be a lot of crud on the intake yet, but could be wrong. Mainly just want to do a cleaning now and another one soon to hedge off any future gunk.
Thanks for your info !
Yea go for it. Do it every 25-30k and you should be good. Your low miles mean there is very little there most likely. So good time to start and keep it clean.
That's my thinking as well.
I bought a fairly inexpensive scope to look inside and see what's there now. Haven't used it yet, but plan on it soon.
Originally Posted by kstanf150
Originally Posted by Jimzz
I usually use carb cleaner to soften up any major gunk. Then use the CRC right after. Seems to work better than CRC alone.
Never seen it break anything major off when it cleans. Just turns it to black liquid.
I just bought a low mileage MKC with the 2.0L ecoboost. I wouldn't think with 28K miles that there would be a lot of crud on the intake yet, but could be wrong. Mainly just want to do a cleaning now and another one soon to hedge off any future gunk.
Thanks for your info !
Yea go for it. Do it every 25-30k and you should be good. Your low miles mean there is very little there most likely. So good time to start and keep it clean.
That's my thinking as well.
I bought a fairly inexpensive scope to look inside and see what's there now. Haven't used it yet, but plan on it soon.
gathermewool
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No change noted on my FXT FA20DIT with 72,300 miles on the ODO. I've got a second canister of the cleaner and will run it before my next OCI in another month or so.
Note: I'm Stage 1 with an OTS map from Cobb. I'll post any changes in fuel trim and etc. after using the cleaner before the winter is out.
Note: I'm Stage 1 with an OTS map from Cobb. I'll post any changes in fuel trim and etc. after using the cleaner before the winter is out.
Originally Posted by kstanf150
Hey guys just curious if anyone here has used the CRC cleaner on their GDI / Turbo engines. If so what was the results ?
Thanks
Haven't vehicle manufacturers solved this years ago? I put 100K on my CX5 (DI) and had zero issues with carbon. Others have 2-3x as many miles. Runs fine. Older engines, it's just a known thing that walnut blasting is the only way to truly clean them.
Hey guys just curious if anyone here has used the CRC cleaner on their GDI / Turbo engines. If so what was the results ?
Thanks
Haven't vehicle manufacturers solved this years ago? I put 100K on my CX5 (DI) and had zero issues with carbon. Others have 2-3x as many miles. Runs fine. Older engines, it's just a known thing that walnut blasting is the only way to truly clean them.
I've used it now 3 times on three separate cars. The first was my 2013 Hyundai Santa fe 3.3L with 125,000kms. It has a bit of a miss at idle when cold and because it's often short tripped it blows a ton of carbon when I take it for its weekly/bi-weekly beating on the highway. When I did it, it smoke a fair amount during the process. I did it with my wife holding the throttle. Lesson learned - bought a bar clamp to put between the seat and pedal. Anyways, after it sat for an hour it smoked so bad for the first couple kms I couldn't see anything behind me. After the highway run and a cold night sitting, misfire seemed to be gone.
Second car was a 2017 subaru wrx with 127,000kms. First treatment. Highway car had a miss on the highway under light throttle. Seems to have fixed it. Smoked much less this time.
Just yesterday I did it on a 2019 subaru crosstrek with 57,000kms on it, highway car. No drivability concerns, very little smoke. Will do it every 50k going forward hopefully doesn't ever have a carbon issue.
All this to say I have done it on varying cars with varying mileage, age and operational conditions, all with different results. I say it works. And when used on a regular basis should avoid the problem before it arises.
Second car was a 2017 subaru wrx with 127,000kms. First treatment. Highway car had a miss on the highway under light throttle. Seems to have fixed it. Smoked much less this time.
Just yesterday I did it on a 2019 subaru crosstrek with 57,000kms on it, highway car. No drivability concerns, very little smoke. Will do it every 50k going forward hopefully doesn't ever have a carbon issue.
All this to say I have done it on varying cars with varying mileage, age and operational conditions, all with different results. I say it works. And when used on a regular basis should avoid the problem before it arises.
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Originally Posted by Ws6
Haven't vehicle manufacturers solved this years ago? I put 100K on my CX5 (DI) and had zero issues with carbon. Others have 2-3x as many miles. Runs fine. Older engines, it's just a known thing that walnut blasting is the only way to truly clean them.
No it is not solved (especially in TGDI applications, but SN+ helps some).
And if you use the cleaners regularly, ideally there will be no need for walnut blasting.
I have a can of the CRC cleaner sitting in my garage right now for my mom's '18 Kia Soul with just over 25,000 miles. Since hers is non-turbo DI, I was going to do it at 30,000 miles, then every 20,000 after that.
Same plan for my Santa Fe with just over 20,000 miles on it right now.
I am not overly concerned since I have not heard much of issues with these motors (H/K 2.0 Nu GDI and 3.3 Lambda II GDI) and carbon build up on the valves, but won't hurt to use it IMO.
Haven't vehicle manufacturers solved this years ago? I put 100K on my CX5 (DI) and had zero issues with carbon. Others have 2-3x as many miles. Runs fine. Older engines, it's just a known thing that walnut blasting is the only way to truly clean them.
No it is not solved (especially in TGDI applications, but SN+ helps some).
And if you use the cleaners regularly, ideally there will be no need for walnut blasting.
I have a can of the CRC cleaner sitting in my garage right now for my mom's '18 Kia Soul with just over 25,000 miles. Since hers is non-turbo DI, I was going to do it at 30,000 miles, then every 20,000 after that.
Same plan for my Santa Fe with just over 20,000 miles on it right now.
I am not overly concerned since I have not heard much of issues with these motors (H/K 2.0 Nu GDI and 3.3 Lambda II GDI) and carbon build up on the valves, but won't hurt to use it IMO.
Having cleaned my valves off with a bunch of brushes and 10 cans of carb cleaner over 2 days, I don't think these cans will do anything at all.
Originally Posted by blupupher
Originally Posted by Ws6
Haven't vehicle manufacturers solved this years ago? I put 100K on my CX5 (DI) and had zero issues with carbon. Others have 2-3x as many miles. Runs fine. Older engines, it's just a known thing that walnut blasting is the only way to truly clean them.
No it is not solved (especially in TGDI applications, but SN+ helps some).
And if you use the cleaners regularly, ideally there will be no need for walnut blasting.
I have a can of the CRC cleaner sitting in my garage right now for my mom's '18 Kia Soul with just over 25,000 miles. Since hers is non-turbo DI, I was going to do it at 30,000 miles, then every 20,000 after that.
Same plan for my Santa Fe with just over 20,000 miles on it right now.
I am not overly concerned since I have not heard much of issues with these motors (H/K 2.0 Nu GDI and 3.3 Lambda II GDI) and carbon build up on the valves, but won't hurt to use it IMO.
I guess in t he hundreds of thousands of miles it takes for this to be noticeable, I'll probably be okay paying a few hundred bucks for walnut blasting then. My last DI car went 106K miles with zero alteration to performance or fuel economy. It wasn't turbo DI though, but at 30K now on my turbo DI with zero issues, will keep it in mind I guess. Those spray cans won't do much. I've seen cylinder scope vids of the before/after on some old VW engines I think, and it was very "meh".
Originally Posted by Ws6
Haven't vehicle manufacturers solved this years ago? I put 100K on my CX5 (DI) and had zero issues with carbon. Others have 2-3x as many miles. Runs fine. Older engines, it's just a known thing that walnut blasting is the only way to truly clean them.
No it is not solved (especially in TGDI applications, but SN+ helps some).
And if you use the cleaners regularly, ideally there will be no need for walnut blasting.
I have a can of the CRC cleaner sitting in my garage right now for my mom's '18 Kia Soul with just over 25,000 miles. Since hers is non-turbo DI, I was going to do it at 30,000 miles, then every 20,000 after that.
Same plan for my Santa Fe with just over 20,000 miles on it right now.
I am not overly concerned since I have not heard much of issues with these motors (H/K 2.0 Nu GDI and 3.3 Lambda II GDI) and carbon build up on the valves, but won't hurt to use it IMO.
I guess in t he hundreds of thousands of miles it takes for this to be noticeable, I'll probably be okay paying a few hundred bucks for walnut blasting then. My last DI car went 106K miles with zero alteration to performance or fuel economy. It wasn't turbo DI though, but at 30K now on my turbo DI with zero issues, will keep it in mind I guess. Those spray cans won't do much. I've seen cylinder scope vids of the before/after on some old VW engines I think, and it was very "meh".
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Originally Posted by Ws6
[I guess in t he hundreds of thousands of miles it takes for this to be noticeable, I'll probably be okay paying a few hundred bucks for walnut blasting then. My last DI car went 106K miles with zero alteration to performance or fuel economy. It wasn't turbo DI though, but at 30K now on my turbo DI with zero issues, will keep it in mind I guess. Those spray cans won't do much. I've seen cylinder scope vids of the before/after on some old VW engines I think, and it was very "meh".
Some DI engines have more of an issue that others. As said, the TGDI tend to be more problematic, but not all of them are.
Manufacturers are starting to do things to reduce or eleminate the issue (port and DI combo, spray adjustments to get some fuel on the back of the valves) as well as oil improvements.
I have seen a few scope vids and they seem to do something.
[I guess in t he hundreds of thousands of miles it takes for this to be noticeable, I'll probably be okay paying a few hundred bucks for walnut blasting then. My last DI car went 106K miles with zero alteration to performance or fuel economy. It wasn't turbo DI though, but at 30K now on my turbo DI with zero issues, will keep it in mind I guess. Those spray cans won't do much. I've seen cylinder scope vids of the before/after on some old VW engines I think, and it was very "meh".
Some DI engines have more of an issue that others. As said, the TGDI tend to be more problematic, but not all of them are.
Manufacturers are starting to do things to reduce or eleminate the issue (port and DI combo, spray adjustments to get some fuel on the back of the valves) as well as oil improvements.
I have seen a few scope vids and they seem to do something.
Originally Posted by Toh1
That question I ask has not used crc or other cleaner in my car because I think that the carbon can schrach the cyilinder wall
Not unless it is diamond, amorphous carbon has a low hardness value. Pieces of carbon regularly fall off the valves and other surfaces and fall into the combustion chamber.
That question I ask has not used crc or other cleaner in my car because I think that the carbon can schrach the cyilinder wall
Not unless it is diamond, amorphous carbon has a low hardness value. Pieces of carbon regularly fall off the valves and other surfaces and fall into the combustion chamber.
Originally Posted by Ws6
Originally Posted by blupupher
Originally Posted by Ws6
Haven't vehicle manufacturers solved this years ago? I put 100K on my CX5 (DI) and had zero issues with carbon. Others have 2-3x as many miles. Runs fine. Older engines, it's just a known thing that walnut blasting is the only way to truly clean them.
No it is not solved (especially in TGDI applications, but SN+ helps some).
And if you use the cleaners regularly, ideally there will be no need for walnut blasting.
I have a can of the CRC cleaner sitting in my garage right now for my mom's '18 Kia Soul with just over 25,000 miles. Since hers is non-turbo DI, I was going to do it at 30,000 miles, then every 20,000 after that.
Same plan for my Santa Fe with just over 20,000 miles on it right now.
I am not overly concerned since I have not heard much of issues with these motors (H/K 2.0 Nu GDI and 3.3 Lambda II GDI) and carbon build up on the valves, but won't hurt to use it IMO.
I guess in t he hundreds of thousands of miles it takes for this to be noticeable, I'll probably be okay paying a few hundred bucks for walnut blasting then. My last DI car went 106K miles with zero alteration to performance or fuel economy. It wasn't turbo DI though, but at 30K now on my turbo DI with zero issues, will keep it in mind I guess. Those spray cans won't do much. I've seen cylinder scope vids of the before/after on some old VW engines I think, and it was very "meh".
Agree..Might as well wait until one experiences a material drop in MPGs or running issue (Which may never occur during life of ownership) rather than take the "solution in search of a problem" approach.
Originally Posted by blupupher
Originally Posted by Ws6
Haven't vehicle manufacturers solved this years ago? I put 100K on my CX5 (DI) and had zero issues with carbon. Others have 2-3x as many miles. Runs fine. Older engines, it's just a known thing that walnut blasting is the only way to truly clean them.
No it is not solved (especially in TGDI applications, but SN+ helps some).
And if you use the cleaners regularly, ideally there will be no need for walnut blasting.
I have a can of the CRC cleaner sitting in my garage right now for my mom's '18 Kia Soul with just over 25,000 miles. Since hers is non-turbo DI, I was going to do it at 30,000 miles, then every 20,000 after that.
Same plan for my Santa Fe with just over 20,000 miles on it right now.
I am not overly concerned since I have not heard much of issues with these motors (H/K 2.0 Nu GDI and 3.3 Lambda II GDI) and carbon build up on the valves, but won't hurt to use it IMO.
I guess in t he hundreds of thousands of miles it takes for this to be noticeable, I'll probably be okay paying a few hundred bucks for walnut blasting then. My last DI car went 106K miles with zero alteration to performance or fuel economy. It wasn't turbo DI though, but at 30K now on my turbo DI with zero issues, will keep it in mind I guess. Those spray cans won't do much. I've seen cylinder scope vids of the before/after on some old VW engines I think, and it was very "meh".
Agree..Might as well wait until one experiences a material drop in MPGs or running issue (Which may never occur during life of ownership) rather than take the "solution in search of a problem" approach.
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