New to me 4Runner

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I bought a 2006 4Runner 4wd v6 off my parents with 117k miles, and I plan on keeping it to 200k. It was serviced only by Toyota dealers, and I have all the records. It drives great, but I do notice a hard shift under light throttle at slow speeds, not sure if that's normal behavior for a750 transmissions, or the fluid is in need of a change. The transmission was serviced at 90k miles, and the paperwork shows 12 qts of fluid, so I suspect it was a full fluid transfer. I'm thinking of the following options:

1. Add a Magnefine filter and lubegard red, top off with maxlife or WS and let it be for another 10-20k.
2. Drain and fill with maxlife.
3. Full fluid exchange with maxlife.

Thoughts?
 
I'm not familiar with A750 but... I tend to go along with the Maxlife advocates. It's in my '99 Camry and my '10 Tundra, the former which isn't really comparable but the latter should be close enough. I've read thread after thread, and just am not convinced that WS is required nor that Maxlife is bad. YMMV. I'm not sure it's bank breaking to use WS if you'd prefer.

I have not "bought" into additional filters but I sure don't see how they would hurt. The worse the fluid looks, the more I'd want to do a full fluid exchange (with fluid of choice). I'm guessing it may clear up with fresh fluid. Then again, if it was service already, then that seems odd.

I think this transmission has a plug in the pan for checking fluid level. I'd get the trans to the right temperature and pull that, engine idling, and see if you get the light dribble that it's supposed to put out. And to see what color the fluid is. That may tell you something. IIRC this is a strainer for the filter so it doesn't need to be changed, but you may feel better if you check the magnets.
 
Fluid exchange with Transmax syn and LG red.
cool.gif


If it is acting weird and you want 200k out of the trans, you should probably throw some LG red in.
 
There are plenty of people on Tacomaworld.com using Maxlife and Lubegard in their A750 transmissions. We have one guy on there that has 195k miles on that combo with no issues. I think most of the TW guys are using Lubegard Platinum, I'll check with the 195k guy about which Lubegard he uses and report back.
Edit: he has 185k.
 
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The spec for that year Toyota's was Type T-IV ( or JWS3309). If the dealership added WS fluid, it might explain the harsh cold shifting. WS is thinner than T-IV.
 
Originally Posted by tcp71
The spec for that year Toyota's was Type T-IV ( or JWS3309). If the dealership added WS fluid, it might explain the harsh cold shifting. WS is thinner than T-IV.


Thanks, I double checked the manual, it specs WS fluid. Also the maintenance paperwork says WS fluid as well.
I don't know if the harsh shifting is just normal, or if it's telling me I need to swap the fluid. My interpretation is it's not smooth or seamless, it feels like I hit a small bump in the road. I come from driving a manual, and my wife has a Subaru CVT, so I'm not use to feeling an auto shift.
 
Toyota created the WS spec in around 2002. Back then then 4 speed transmission were the norm and "Synthetics" were in there infancy.

Personally I would go with one of the newer synthetics that state compatibility with WS. YMMV. Also remember Until the Late 1990's all Toyota cars spced DEXRON fluids and decided to break from DEX and have their own fluid.

I will get flamed for saying writing this, but I am of the opinion that as long the viscosity is close and the additives do not harm the clutch packs (Most clutch packs use the same materials in their construction) you should be fine.

IMO your 96 will love the synthetic.
 
Grab a few gallon bottles of the Maxlife and, if you have an extractor, suck about a gallon through the dipstick and replace. Drive a bit and repeat. Maxlife will do great on it's own. No need to add any LG.
 
I have a 2007 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner with TRD Off-Road package, V6, and Aisin A750E automatic transmission (the A750F is the 4WD version, which is what you have).

These are solid transmissions.

If you go to Wikipedia entry for these transmissions, you'll see that they were also used in the V8 version of the 4Runner, as well as in the Sequoia and Lexus GX470, so they're pretty understressed in V6 applications.

I bought my truck new in 2007 and performed the first full trans fluid swap at 100K, then, again, at 200K. I used Toyota WS fluid both times. I think it shifts great. It's not the most refined auto transmission in the world, but it's stout enough and still performs wonderfully, even at 225K miles. I have towed a few times with it, but not much. Mostly driven as a car, and I've done quite a bit of hauling motorcycles in the bed. Light use, mainly.

It does have an issue where, rolling at, like 5-10 mph, when I believe it should already be in 2nd, it will still be in 1st, and, when I accelerate, it will abruptly run out 1st gear and then quickly shift to 2nd. It tends to do this more frequently if I'm rolling down a slight incline (there's a spot in the parking lot at work where it'll do this every time). But if I let it keep rolling without applying throttle, it'll go ahead and, almost imperceptibly, shift to 2nd and then I can go ahead and accelerate smoothly, in 2nd gear. Since I'm very familiar with the transmission, I can easily avoid this and prevent any rough operation. But, if someone wasn't familiar with the unit, I could see it being considered as a rough shift.

It also has a bit of a driveline vibration that will be noticeable if I apply, say, 75% or greater throttle, from lower speeds (say, anywhere from 5-25 mph). From what I understand, this could be coming from the torque converter, and I've read that adding some of the additive Lubeguard Red can cure this. However, I haven't done it, because I rarely accelerate the truck hard from lower speeds. It's also possible that the vibration might not be coming from the transmission at all, but maybe from the driveshaft (u-joints or center driveshaft carrier bearing). I'm not sure about the T4R, but the Tacomas use a 2-piece driveshaft with 3 u-joints. I replaced all 3 at around 80K when a bearing cap on the rear-most u-joint dried out, and started squeaking when I backed up. But, now, of course, they have 145,000+ miles on them. I used Auto Zone Duralast Gold (non-greasable) u-joints when I replaced them. At any rate, I'm happy with the performance of this transmission. It's my daily driver, and I routinely do 90 mph or more in the truck, and there are no signs of it giving up any time soon.

There is a rough shift here and there, from time to time, usually when I make some sort of abrupt movement at a weird time with the gas pedal. But that's to be expected of any autobox.

Your idea of a Magnefine filter - I think you'll find that it won't do much, if anything. But it probably can't hurt anything.

As far as Maxlife fluid, I've read reports of a lot of guys using Maxlife in these transmissions without any problem. So, I'd say, if you want, go ahead and try it. If you do, please report back on your results. Personally, I've chosen to just stick with OEM fluid, especially since I didn't change mine for the first time until 100K, then again at 200K, used WS, also. If it makes it to 300K, I'll use WS again, because, at that point, stick with what has worked well enough, right?

Can you describe with a bit more detail, what yours is doing?
 
Earlier Toyota used Type IV fluid on the A750 transmission but later switched to WS fluid. The AISIN AFW+ thats WS compatible will work fine with your vehicle and the magnefine is a very good idea if you want to keep your fluid clean.
 
The Toyota transmissions are very stout. I think that you may be overthinking this and should just enjoy the truck. I would plan for the next drain and refill at 150,000 miles. You can opt for the Toyota fluid or Maxlife. I have used both. I try to drain and refill mine around every 50000 to 60000 miles and my vehicles get extreme use. I try to put as much mileage as possible on all my vehicles. I don't add additives to the oils. You may want to change the differential oil out to Mobil 1. I think your vehicle doesn't have the greasable zerks but that would be another thing to check.
 
Originally Posted by john_pifer
I have a 2007 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner with TRD Off-Road package, V6, and Aisin A750E automatic transmission (the A750F is the 4WD version, which is what you have).

These are solid transmissions.

If you go to Wikipedia entry for these transmissions, you'll see that they were also used in the V8 version of the 4Runner, as well as in the Sequoia and Lexus GX470, so they're pretty understressed in V6 applications.

I bought my truck new in 2007 and performed the first full trans fluid swap at 100K, then, again, at 200K. I used Toyota WS fluid both times. I think it shifts great. It's not the most refined auto transmission in the world, but it's stout enough and still performs wonderfully, even at 225K miles. I have towed a few times with it, but not much. Mostly driven as a car, and I've done quite a bit of hauling motorcycles in the bed. Light use, mainly.

It does have an issue where, rolling at, like 5-10 mph, when I believe it should already be in 2nd, it will still be in 1st, and, when I accelerate, it will abruptly run out 1st gear and then quickly shift to 2nd. It tends to do this more frequently if I'm rolling down a slight incline (there's a spot in the parking lot at work where it'll do this every time). But if I let it keep rolling without applying throttle, it'll go ahead and, almost imperceptibly, shift to 2nd and then I can go ahead and accelerate smoothly, in 2nd gear. Since I'm very familiar with the transmission, I can easily avoid this and prevent any rough operation. But, if someone wasn't familiar with the unit, I could see it being considered as a rough shift.

It also has a bit of a driveline vibration that will be noticeable if I apply, say, 75% or greater throttle, from lower speeds (say, anywhere from 5-25 mph). From what I understand, this could be coming from the torque converter, and I've read that adding some of the additive Lubeguard Red can cure this. However, I haven't done it, because I rarely accelerate the truck hard from lower speeds. It's also possible that the vibration might not be coming from the transmission at all, but maybe from the driveshaft (u-joints or center driveshaft carrier bearing). I'm not sure about the T4R, but the Tacomas use a 2-piece driveshaft with 3 u-joints. I replaced all 3 at around 80K when a bearing cap on the rear-most u-joint dried out, and started squeaking when I backed up. But, now, of course, they have 145,000+ miles on them. I used Auto Zone Duralast Gold (non-greasable) u-joints when I replaced them. At any rate, I'm happy with the performance of this transmission. It's my daily driver, and I routinely do 90 mph or more in the truck, and there are no signs of it giving up any time soon.

There is a rough shift here and there, from time to time, usually when I make some sort of abrupt movement at a weird time with the gas pedal. But that's to be expected of any autobox.

Your idea of a Magnefine filter - I think you'll find that it won't do much, if anything. But it probably can't hurt anything.

As far as Maxlife fluid, I've read reports of a lot of guys using Maxlife in these transmissions without any problem. So, I'd say, if you want, go ahead and try it. If you do, please report back on your results. Personally, I've chosen to just stick with OEM fluid, especially since I didn't change mine for the first time until 100K, then again at 200K, used WS, also. If it makes it to 300K, I'll use WS again, because, at that point, stick with what has worked well enough, right?

Can you describe with a bit more detail, what yours is doing?

Originally Posted by john_pifer
I have a 2007 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner with TRD Off-Road package, V6, and Aisin A750E automatic transmission (the A750F is the 4WD version, which is what you have).

These are solid transmissions.

If you go to Wikipedia entry for these transmissions, you'll see that they were also used in the V8 version of the 4Runner, as well as in the Sequoia and Lexus GX470, so they're pretty understressed in V6 applications.

I bought my truck new in 2007 and performed the first full trans fluid swap at 100K, then, again, at 200K. I used Toyota WS fluid both times. I think it shifts great. It's not the most refined auto transmission in the world, but it's stout enough and still performs wonderfully, even at 225K miles. I have towed a few times with it, but not much. Mostly driven as a car, and I've done quite a bit of hauling motorcycles in the bed. Light use, mainly.

It does have an issue where, rolling at, like 5-10 mph, when I believe it should already be in 2nd, it will still be in 1st, and, when I accelerate, it will abruptly run out 1st gear and then quickly shift to 2nd. It tends to do this more frequently if I'm rolling down a slight incline (there's a spot in the parking lot at work where it'll do this every time). But if I let it keep rolling without applying throttle, it'll go ahead and, almost imperceptibly, shift to 2nd and then I can go ahead and accelerate smoothly, in 2nd gear. Since I'm very familiar with the transmission, I can easily avoid this and prevent any rough operation. But, if someone wasn't familiar with the unit, I could see it being considered as a rough shift.

It also has a bit of a driveline vibration that will be noticeable if I apply, say, 75% or greater throttle, from lower speeds (say, anywhere from 5-25 mph). From what I understand, this could be coming from the torque converter, and I've read that adding some of the additive Lubeguard Red can cure this. However, I haven't done it, because I rarely accelerate the truck hard from lower speeds. It's also possible that the vibration might not be coming from the transmission at all, but maybe from the driveshaft (u-joints or center driveshaft carrier bearing). I'm not sure about the T4R, but the Tacomas use a 2-piece driveshaft with 3 u-joints. I replaced all 3 at around 80K when a bearing cap on the rear-most u-joint dried out, and started squeaking when I backed up. But, now, of course, they have 145,000+ miles on them. I used Auto Zone Duralast Gold (non-greasable) u-joints when I replaced them. At any rate, I'm happy with the performance of this transmission. It's my daily driver, and I routinely do 90 mph or more in the truck, and there are no signs of it giving up any time soon.

There is a rough shift here and there, from time to time, usually when I make some sort of abrupt movement at a weird time with the gas pedal. But that's to be expected of any autobox.

Your idea of a Magnefine filter - I think you'll find that it won't do much, if anything. But it probably can't hurt anything.

As far as Maxlife fluid, I've read reports of a lot of guys using Maxlife in these transmissions without any problem. So, I'd say, if you want, go ahead and try it. If you do, please report back on your results. Personally, I've chosen to just stick with OEM fluid, especially since I didn't change mine for the first time until 100K, then again at 200K, used WS, also. If it makes it to 300K, I'll use WS again, because, at that point, stick with what has worked well enough, right?

Can you describe with a bit more detail, what yours is doing?


I think you described the behavior I'm seeing, sounds like it's a normal trait.

My the 4Runner has a single piece driveshaft, there's some caked on grease around them, I need to lightly clean them and see if they have zerks
 
I have the same trans in my 09 Tacoma TRD 4x4. I too have intermittent rough shifts under certain conditions, seems to be a characteristic of this trans. I do not like the programming (early shift for fuel economy), but it is what it is. Under 50mph I'll keep it in 4 to prevent the torque converter locking up as mine has the famous converter shudder that sometimes can be cured with fresh fluid, but more often than not needs a new converter.

Luckily you have the one piece drive shaft, I have the 2 piece with the carrier bearing and under certain conditions it likes to bounce around and vibrate. I plan on replacing the bearing this summer and eventually replace everything with a solid one piece unit. I know it doesn't pertain to your vehicle, but alot of the clunks can be solved by re-greasing the slip joint, ironically with a Ford Motorcraft grease...
 
do the spill and fill Toyota WS 2.5qt. every 12k and grease the driveshafts (2 zerks ea.)..my drivelines are remarkably perfect under all conditions.
I buy Toyota WS on e.bay.
 
Everyone that has problems and still uses the WS fluid on their older cars... deserves what they got.
Those transmissions where not designed for Low Viscosity fluids. Only because of this mantra of "low gas mileage with any costs" the WS appeared and made it's way into older transmissions.
 
Originally Posted by bronx


Can you describe with a bit more detail, what yours is doing?


I think you described the behavior I'm seeing, sounds like it's a normal trait.

My the 4Runner has a single piece driveshaft, there's some caked on grease around them, I need to lightly clean them and see if they have zerks
[/quote]

As you drive it more, you'll get used to the low-speed behavior of the trans. As I said, this issue typically happens as you're trolling at low speeds, usually in a parking lot, and then you apply throttle, expecting smooth acceleration in 2nd gear. And then what you get is the truck un-smoothly accelerating in 1st gear, because you're actually going a bit too fast for 1st, but for some reason the trans logic still has you in 1st. The result is that you're only in 1st gear for a couple of seconds before it roughly shifts to 2nd.

You'll get to where you instinctively know when it's going to do this, and give it very light throttle. That makes the event much smoother.

And, like I say, if yours is 4x4, I'd guess there are Zerk fittings underneath that grease and dirt. Good practice to grease them every time you change your oil.
 
Originally Posted by Delta
I have the same trans in my 09 Tacoma TRD 4x4. I too have intermittent rough shifts under certain conditions, seems to be a characteristic of this trans. I do not like the programming (early shift for fuel economy), but it is what it is. Under 50mph I'll keep it in 4 to prevent the torque converter locking up as mine has the famous converter shudder that sometimes can be cured with fresh fluid, but more often than not needs a new converter.

Luckily you have the one piece drive shaft, I have the 2 piece with the carrier bearing and under certain conditions it likes to bounce around and vibrate. I plan on replacing the bearing this summer and eventually replace everything with a solid one piece unit. I know it doesn't pertain to your vehicle, but alot of the clunks can be solved by re-greasing the slip joint, ironically with a Ford Motorcraft grease...


Under what conditions do you notice the "shudder"?

And when do you notice the "bouncing around and vibrating" with the carrier bearing?

I have the original carrier bearing, and I've never felt any vibes or anything that I could describe as being related to that.

And, when you say, "slip joint", what are you referring to?
 
Originally Posted by john_pifer
Under what conditions do you notice the "shudder"?

And when do you notice the "bouncing around and vibrating" with the carrier bearing?

I have the original carrier bearing, and I've never felt any vibes or anything that I could describe as being related to that.

And, when you say, "slip joint", what are you referring to?


Shudder occurs around 35-45mph when the trans is in 5th and the torque converter is locked up (locks around 40mphish?). Will almost feel like driving on a very light rumble strip. To test this out you can left foot it and gently tap on the brake, not enough to start braking, but just enough to light up the brake lights. The computer will sense this and unlock the torque converter and it'll be smooth.

My carrier bearing is in the early stages of failure. Most common situation is slowing down to say 10-15mph and having to gun it. You can feel a vibration that goes away at speed (50-70ish) It can also vibrate under moderate throttle. From what I understand once it goes bad it'll vibrate under any acceleration, but I may be wrong.

My terminology is wrong, should of said slip yoke or propeller shaft. Typically will feel a thud when suddenly braking or accelerating. It will be inside the boot on your two piece driveshaft. Common fix is to re-grease it.
 
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