Duralast LCA's?

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supton

supton

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So I've confirmed that the rear bushings are kaput in my Camry's lower control arms. I don't have a press, and don't know who does, so I'm kinda ruling out pressing in and out bushings. Looking online I can find cheapo LCA's (Detroit Axle et al) but Autozone has what I need in stock. Just for more money. Considerably more! But is this a case of getting what you pay for? Or should I be trying to find a shop to press the bushings instead, since many aftermarket parts are kinda iffy?

Front bushings seem fine, FWIW, I can't move them by hand, and they only budge with considerably leverage. So I'm thinking they are ok.
 
When I did LCA on my 2004 ES330 Lexus I used Beck Arnley arms from Rock Auto. Nice fit and finish, well made, alignment was spot on after the replacement. I would highly recommend them.

At least on my Lexus it required lifting the engine and transmission off the subframe about 6" to gain the clearance needed to extract the bolts for the LCA!
 
Rock has Beck/Arnley but they come with the balljoint, which I don't need. They do have AC Delco and Delphi, not sure if Moog is still ok? I've read Mevotech isn't, but they and Moog are pretty similar in price.

Luckily it's been easy so far, maybe 30 min per side to remove the arm. Strangely enough all the bolts zipped right out.
 
I had the Beck/Arnley's from Rock Auto put in my Camry last August. So far so good, I didn't even get an alignment
whistle.gif
 
Just had a duh moment--I don't need the ball joint, so I can... just unbolt it and reuse what I already have. Keep the new one just in case.

Sounds like the right answer, on the basis of good feedback.
 
I had newer Moog Problem solvers and decided to just toss them.

Are your current ball joints really good ones? If not I'd make the used ones the spares then.
 
They felt good to me, I moved them all around and seemed ok. I'm not against changing them, I'd just have to get the tool to do so.
 
Originally Posted by supton
They felt good to me, I moved them all around and seemed ok. I'm not against changing them, I'd just have to get the tool to do so.

I believe they're just bolt on with 4 bolts.
 
Yep, the '99 needs the work.

Ball joint is 4 bolts, 3 on the LCA and one through the knuckle. I thought one needed a ball joint separator to undo that. I'd also have to put the suspension back together I suspect, right now the knuckle is hanging in free space, held up by the strut... axle has to come out to remove the ball joint. Link
 
Rock wouldn't take my credit card, so I got the Duralast's. Took a bit of filing to get the ball joints back on... and when done, I think one of them isn't too far from being done. Bad choice going this direction, I should have fixed the CC at Rock (wanted some security code? my CC works just fine at Amazon and the gas pump). Also found that the inner CV boots are showing signs of cracking, so it'll all be apart again before too long anyhow.

Car drives slightly better now, bit less shake and vibration.
 
Originally Posted by supton
Rock wouldn't take my credit card, so I got the Duralast's. Took a bit of filing to get the ball joints back on... and when done, I think one of them isn't too far from being done. Bad choice going this direction, I should have fixed the CC at Rock (wanted some security code? my CC works just fine at Amazon and the gas pump). Also found that the inner CV boots are showing signs of cracking, so it'll all be apart again before too long anyhow.

Car drives slightly better now, bit less shake and vibration.
I had issues with Rock Autos credit card system too before. I just always use PayPal now.
 
I'll look into PayPal, I think I might have an account, I just haven't used in forever. I think at one point I could use PayPal w/o having a balance there... use too sporadically to remember.
 
Best I remember , you can have PayPal charge against a credit card or against a bank account . I have it charge against my debit card .
 
Originally Posted by supton
Took a bit of filing to get the ball joints back on... and when done, I think one of them isn't too far from being done


What exactly did you file?

What do you mean by "isn't too far from being done", as in job completed, or worn out?
 
Originally Posted by HangFire
Originally Posted by supton
Took a bit of filing to get the ball joints back on... and when done, I think one of them isn't too far from being done


What exactly did you file?

What do you mean by "isn't too far from being done", as in job completed, or worn out?



the holes for the balljoints were painted over, so that had to be opened up, then I had to still clearance the ball joint nuts from interference to just barely snug--they weren't going in for nothing. Low quality LCA's I guess.

The rubber boot on the driver's side is starting to pull down; I pried it down just a hair, and it's either brown grease or brown rust in there. I think grease as it was shiny metal, but where the rubber boot is not pressing firmly upward I'm thinking it is a matter of time to failure. That side also feels looser--loose is the wrong term, there is no play, but there's no drag either.

When I feel like it, I'll do ball joints when I reboot the CV's. I can do another trans flush too at that time; I've noticed some slow engagement in drive this winter, so first step would be to change the fluid (I've been putting that off until TB time, that's this summers job).
 
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