2018 + Honda Goldwing

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Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by grampi
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Originally Posted by Smoky14
The tire's are usually the limiting factor, even slight under inflation and the chance of a blow out go up exponentially. Sometimes the frame rails are stress limited to save weight and increase carrying capacity.
Smoky


Tires are almost always the limiting factor...one reason darksiding is so popular.


I never understood why motorcycle tires don't last as long as car tires. Is there a reason for it, other than you gotta pay to play?


The contact patch is much smaller on a motorcycle tire because of the required profile for adequate cornering traction. And most motorcycle tires use a relatively soft compound for good traction. Only way to get better mileage out of a tire is get one with the dual compound - harder longer lasting in the middle (where most of the time riding is spent) and a softer compound on the edges for cornering.


No, that is wrong. Per actual durometer testing, motorcycle tire compounds are HARDER than typical car tire compounds.
 
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle

No, that is wrong. Per actual durometer testing, motorcycle tire compounds are HARDER than typical car tire compounds.


Which Motorcycle tires? Can you post some durometer specs for racing slicks through the range to the highest mileage touring tires made?

Also, tire durability is not solely due to a durometer rating.
 
Someone checked a bunch of tires, from bias-ply touring bike rubber to DOT track tires. (He didn't test non-DOT tires.) None were softer than performance car tires.
 
After looking through the Goldwing site, I am not seeing guys reporting the OEM tires needing replacement at 7-8K miles as Alarmguy mentioned, at least not on the 2018 or newer models. Older models, yes, but most of the guys seem to be getting 12-15K on the newer GW's original tires.
 
Originally Posted by MoreCowbellAz
Originally Posted by alarmguy
[
I get out on my bike to escape from the world.
Its why I ride a Road King, same engine, chassis, same everything except all the extra stuff that I do not want.


My thoughts exactly with my RK. For awhile I didn't really appreciate the spartan nature of the RK (I inherited mine). I came to love it and wouldn't want it any other way. It's an escape, about as off the grid as I'm likely to get. No info overload, music, amps, electronic gadgetry, etc. Just.......simplicity. Nothing but a clear windscreen between me and the horizon. That's my idea of a good time.


Exactly, as you know, my feelings. :eek:)
I jump on my bike, its starts and I go, me and the road (or me and my wife and the road)
No distractions, no frustrations with non working equipment. Heck I even love the idea of having a standard ignition key. I cant believe all the problems some others have had with key fobs. And why would I need a key fob? for goodness sakes! *L* another thing to go wrong!
What is so hard for a bike to insert an ignition key and start a bike? nothing to break, no battery to go dead, my god!
 
My sons CVO RK has a key fob for the factory alarm system. He simply leaves the fob in the windshield bag and rarely removes it. If he's away from his bike on a ride, he puts the fob in his pocket and when he walks away, it automatically arms the system. Pretty convenient IMO. My Superglide requires me to lock the ignition switch and or forks with a barrel key for security. If I lose the key while away from my bike with the ignition locked, I'm SOL, same as someone losing a fob. Having said that, I rarely use my key. I simply turn the unlocked tank mounted switch to start, hit my starter button and I'm on my way. Don't even have to "insert a key". Even my Superglide is prewired for an alarm system from the factory, I just chose not to purchase the system.
 
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Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Someone checked a bunch of tires, from bias-ply touring bike rubber to DOT track tires. (He didn't test non-DOT tires.) None were softer than performance car tires.


So no actual specs?
 
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Someone checked a bunch of tires, from bias-ply touring bike rubber to DOT track tires. (He didn't test non-DOT tires.) None were softer than performance car tires.


High performance car tires don't last very long either, relatively speaking when compared to other "regular" car tires.

From what I'm finding, it doesn't seem like cycle tires have traction and wear rating numbers stamped on the tire sidewall like on passenger vehicle tires.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Someone checked a bunch of tires, from bias-ply touring bike rubber to DOT track tires. (He didn't test non-DOT tires.) None were softer than performance car tires.


High performance car tires don't last very long either, relatively speaking when compared to other "regular" car tires.


That's for sure. The tires on my sportscar start out at 6/32nds. They offer fantastic grip in the dry, but not much else. How long they last depends entirely on how I drive. Moderate driving on the highway, I might get to 5k miles before they are done.

Maybe I should run some Goldwing tires on it for better longevity...

crackmeup2.gif
 
Originally Posted by 02SE
So it's anecdotal hearsay.


Well, no, it was two-plus pages of hard data. I just have no idea where to find it 2+ years later.
 
Originally Posted by 02SE
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Someone checked a bunch of tires, from bias-ply touring bike rubber to DOT track tires. (He didn't test non-DOT tires.) None were softer than performance car tires.


High performance car tires don't last very long either, relatively speaking when compared to other "regular" car tires.


That's for sure. The tires on my sportscar start out at 6/32nds. They offer fantastic grip in the dry, but not much else. How long they last depends entirely on how I drive. Moderate driving on the highway, I might get to 5k miles before they are done.

Maybe I should run some Goldwing tires on it for better longevity...

crackmeup2.gif


What do you run, DOT track tires?
 
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Originally Posted by 02SE
So it's anecdotal hearsay.


Well, no, it was two-plus pages of hard data. I just have no idea where to find it 2+ years later.


540rat style hard data?

Sorry, unless it's data from an actual tire engineer, such as member 'Capriracer', it sounds like anecdotal hearsay to me.
 
Look at the load per sq-in of tire contact between a car and a motorcycle. Even if the cycle tire has slightly harder rubber, the load per sq-in is going to be higher (especially on a heavy bike like a Gold Wing) which leads to increased wear.
 
Originally Posted by 02SE
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Originally Posted by 02SE
So it's anecdotal hearsay.


Well, no, it was two-plus pages of hard data. I just have no idea where to find it 2+ years later.


540rat style hard data?

Sorry, unless it's data from an actual tire engineer, such as member 'Capriracer', it sounds like anecdotal hearsay to me.


So...you need to be a "tire engineer" to use a durometer now?
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
And data can be worthless when properly analyzed, like that site you mention.


Exactly my point.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Look at the load per sq-in of tire contact between a car and a motorcycle. Even if the cycle tire has slightly harder rubber, the load per sq-in is going to be higher (especially on a heavy bike like a Gold Wing) which leads to increased wear.


Good point!
 
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