To Seize or Not To Seize?
- Thread starter Gebo
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Not needed, and may cause issues. Most plugs have a coating on them to prevent seizures.
Now ford has always had "Iggy" issues
you can decide what to do there
Most important is don't bend secondary wires if you are not replacing them, allow then to lie naturally
And Keep the plug insulators surgically clean.
Requires clean gloves and maybe a last second alcohol wipe in a radial motion.
Now ford has always had "Iggy" issues
you can decide what to do there
Most important is don't bend secondary wires if you are not replacing them, allow then to lie naturally
And Keep the plug insulators surgically clean.
Requires clean gloves and maybe a last second alcohol wipe in a radial motion.
If the plug threads are plated and plug manufacturer discourages it then do not use anti-seize. Anti-seize acts as a torque multiplier which increases the risk of an over-torque and consequently stripped threads.
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Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
https://densoautoparts.com/installation-guides.aspx#
It doesn't work for a 2008 Honda CR-V. It only says "no results found" when searching under the ignition.
But I do appreciate your helping me. Thanks!
https://densoautoparts.com/installation-guides.aspx#
It doesn't work for a 2008 Honda CR-V. It only says "no results found" when searching under the ignition.
But I do appreciate your helping me. Thanks!
Originally Posted by Gebo
It doesn't work for a 2008 Honda CR-V. It only says "no results found" when searching under the ignition.
But I do appreciate your helping me. Thanks!
Search pn#?
It doesn't work for a 2008 Honda CR-V. It only says "no results found" when searching under the ignition.
But I do appreciate your helping me. Thanks!
Search pn#?
Use anti-seize, don't use anti-seize, it's been discussed countless times here and it has never reached any consensus.
However, every once in a while we do get a thread about a spark plug being difficult to remove or damaging the threads, even the coated ones. Curiously enough, the vivid proponents of "manufacturers know best" don't seem to participate in those.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...38828/stuck-spark-plug-toyota-4-7-tundra
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2844805&page=all
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...one-spark-plug-wont-come-out#Post5133371
However, every once in a while we do get a thread about a spark plug being difficult to remove or damaging the threads, even the coated ones. Curiously enough, the vivid proponents of "manufacturers know best" don't seem to participate in those.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...38828/stuck-spark-plug-toyota-4-7-tundra
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2844805&page=all
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...one-spark-plug-wont-come-out#Post5133371
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I do it all wrong...
I spray a little WD40 to clean the threads from old anti-seize, etc.
I brush just a wisp of anti-seize on the plug threads.
Start plugs by hand with a rubber installer that will not cross thread plug.
Run 'em down by hand; any resistance must be fixed.
Finish with Snap On 3/8" torque wrench set to the low end (or a little less) of the factory torque value.
Your CR-V is 13 pound feet as I recall.
I use dielectric grease on the plug boot.
I spray a little WD40 to clean the threads from old anti-seize, etc.
I brush just a wisp of anti-seize on the plug threads.
Start plugs by hand with a rubber installer that will not cross thread plug.
Run 'em down by hand; any resistance must be fixed.
Finish with Snap On 3/8" torque wrench set to the low end (or a little less) of the factory torque value.
Your CR-V is 13 pound feet as I recall.
I use dielectric grease on the plug boot.
I still put some on but very little. I only do one small area on the plugs threads and thats all.
Just enough to give it a little more to the surface so they come out without damage in 50-100k, but not to thick to really change the torque specs.
Just enough to give it a little more to the surface so they come out without damage in 50-100k, but not to thick to really change the torque specs.
I've always used antisieze , always. Never a problem. Just a small dab...
Originally Posted by KrisZ
Use anti-seize, don't use anti-seize, it's been discussed countless times here and it has never reached any consensus.
However, every once in a while we do get a thread about a spark plug being difficult to remove or damaging the threads, even the coated ones. Curiously enough, the vivid proponents of "manufacturers know best" don't seem to participate in those.
I think the manufacturers get away with it because they recommend miles and years so if you change it every 6-7 years regardless of miles, then they won't seize from being in there too long.
Never really thought about it, never used it, never had a problem.
Use anti-seize, don't use anti-seize, it's been discussed countless times here and it has never reached any consensus.
However, every once in a while we do get a thread about a spark plug being difficult to remove or damaging the threads, even the coated ones. Curiously enough, the vivid proponents of "manufacturers know best" don't seem to participate in those.
I think the manufacturers get away with it because they recommend miles and years so if you change it every 6-7 years regardless of miles, then they won't seize from being in there too long.
Never really thought about it, never used it, never had a problem.
You'll hear both side so prepare to make your own decision.
Originally Posted by Imp4
You'll hear both side so prepare to make your own decision.
+1 Seize here.
You'll hear both side so prepare to make your own decision.
+1 Seize here.
For most of my wrenching life I used antisieze until the boxes started saying not to do so. For quite a few years after that I never used it and didn't have any issues whatsoever, even after over 100,000 miles. But then this last time changing out the plugs on my ECHO they were so tight and stuck I was certain I was going to strip the aluminum threads in the head (I didn't). So I went back to using it again.
Originally Posted by Gebo
I read to not use anti-seize on spark plugs. I read to use anti-seize on spark plugs. Which is correct or does it matter?
If it matters, at this time I am only concerned with Honda's and Toyota's. However, I welcome all responses.
Honda service instructions state to use a small of anti-seize on the spark plug threads.
I read to not use anti-seize on spark plugs. I read to use anti-seize on spark plugs. Which is correct or does it matter?
If it matters, at this time I am only concerned with Honda's and Toyota's. However, I welcome all responses.
Honda service instructions state to use a small of anti-seize on the spark plug threads.
Honda recommends it. So does Ford on the problem child 3V Mod Motors. and I've been doing it as SOP for plugs. I might stop using anti-seize on Denso or NGK plugs that use a tri-chromate plating but always with Autolite/Champion/Delco/Bosch.
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