Chevy 6.0L Spark plugs

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On the last trip in the RV on startup there was a slight miss, could clear up pretty quick (no codes). Only has 71k but is 15 years old so everything is factory. Rockauto nor OReillys list a AC-Delco Iridium plug so I figured it was a double platinum like our other cars around the same year. I was wrong! 41-985 is the factory plug but from what I've read 41-111 is the replacement. The problem is I've already ordered 41-962's off of Ebay. Also ordered AC-Delco's wires. Might of wasted a bit of money but everything has to come apart anyways since there's a broken manifold bolt on each side.. that may be for another thread.

Pretty sure I'm just going run the 41-962's as I doubt there will be any difference. Unless anyone can change my mind.. NGK from google research is what a few run in their 6.0L's but I really prefer to run AC-Delco plugs.
 
If you have access to a mig welder and can get to the side of the heads with it the exh bolts are a simple deal once you get it apart.
 
If the job is difficult on your RV, you may want to consider NGK ruthenium, so you never have to do them again. Pair them with the NGK wires which are numbered and come in a nice blue color
smile.gif
 
Pardon my lack of know-how on where best to ask questions about my 5.3 AFM problem. When I found this site I read about similar problems others are having/had.
I recently bought a 2007 Avalanche with 5.3 AFM. Previous owner installed headers, removed catalytic converters and installed a loud Magna Flow muffler which I replaced with a fairly stock muffler to reduce the drone. I've had several codes thrown - obviously both O 2 sensor bank codes due to no catalytic (Check Engine Light); lean codes; and the latest being PO308--#8 misfire. It has been backfiring on deceleration/coasting. After reading everyone's posts, I assume I have a bad lifter. I also assume it would be best to not drive it until it's fixed--right? I plan on disabling AFM and ask for suggestions/advice on whether to buy my own tune device or pay the $200 fee to have it professionally done but with no future option to change things up like with the self-tune option. What's the current best way to go since most of the posts I read here were fairly old. If it's best to buy my own--I know there are several-which one would be best? Diablo, Range, Hypertech, other? Thanks.

Also please advise on the correct place to ask my questions.
 
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Eric,

If you have not done you intake gasket, it might be time. There is an updated one. Miss when cold in my old truck was the intake gasket.

Run the 962s you will be fine. I have ran all kinds of stuff in mine. I have settled on the NGK TR-55s in the WS6 and Caprice. The old truck had a set of 962s
There is a TSB about running the 962s in a nut shell it said they were good to go for LS applications.

As to the broken bolts. I like to fix stuff correctly too, but in the interest of time and in your case maybe lack of space you can use those brackets that screw into the head and apply pressure to the manifold. They work great, had them on my old 6.0 truck for 3 years. It was a lot easier than getting the bolt out. I know a few guy who have been running them for over 200,000 miles. Since it is only the RV these brackets are great. It is usually the front two or rear two on either side that break off. That is what these brackets are for.

Clamp Video
Amazon Clamp

First thing I did when I got my 2017 is pull the stock exhaust bolts and put ARP in. The new manifolds do have a better fastener and manifolds are split between ports to allow for expansion and contraction.
 
Originally Posted by hedge1
Pardon my lack of know-how on where best to ask questions about my 5.3 AFM problem. When I found this site I read about similar problems others are having/had.
I recently bought a 2007 Avalanche with 5.3 AFM. Previous owner installed headers, removed catalytic converters and installed a loud Magna Flow muffler which I replaced with a fairly stock muffler to reduce the drone. I've had several codes thrown - obviously both O 2 sensor bank codes due to no catalytic (Check Engine Light); lean codes; and the latest being PO308--#8 misfire. It has been backfiring on deceleration/coasting. After reading everyone's posts, I assume I have a bad lifter. I also assume it would be best to not drive it until it's fixed--right? I plan on disabling AFM and ask for suggestions/advice on whether to buy my own tune device or pay the $200 fee to have it professionally done but with no future option to change things up like with the self-tune option. What's the current best way to go since most of the posts I read here were fairly old. If it's best to buy my own--I know there are several-which one would be best? Diablo, Range, Hypertech, other? Thanks.

Also please advise on the correct place to ask my questions.


What do you mean disable AFM? If you mean tune it out, sure, but it won't prevent a mechanical failure later down the road. It sounds like you already have one.
Your best bet is to find someone who can delete it mechanically then you are looking at 500 bucks for a correct tune.
Hand held tuners are fine for turning it off but it won't prevent a failure.
Here is a typical AFM delete kit.

AFM delete kit

You are looking at 2500 to 3000 dollars to have it done correctly, if you can't do the work yourself. If you have a bad lifter the heads have to come off.
 
Found it.

date: May 21, 2013 Bulletin Number: 13D-070
Subject: AC Delco Spark Plugs 41-110 and 41-962 - Application Update

Description:

AC Delco announces that 2006 and older, as well as some 2007, spark plug service applications covered by the Iridium spark plug 41-110 have moved to the Double Platinum plug 41-962. For the older model years, GM used a Double Platinum spark plug in production, and these older applications are to be serviced with the Double Platinum plug 41-962. 2007 and newer applications used Iridium plugs in production and service requirements will remain assigned to the Iridium plug 41-110.

Both plugs meet original equipment specifications for the applications designated. Catalog changes for the Epicor and WHI systems will be updated in the June release 2013. AC Delco recommends you begin adjusting your stocking requirements for the
41-962 in preparation of the upcoming catalog updates. The estimated sales volume split between the two spark plugs is 50/50 based on these application changes and vehicles in your markets.

Effective Date Immediately.

General Information:
Reference bulletin attachment for year, make and model applications for each of these AC Delco spark plugs. Please refer to Electronic Catalog Provider for complete application information.

These plugs fall into the family pricing matrix for Double Platinum and Iridium plugs. The 41-962 will be less expensive for older applications and will keep AC Delco competitive in the IAM.

For these plug applications, there will only be one plug per application.
 
The 41-962 plugs will serve you beautifully. They should last as long as you'll want to drive that motor home.
This thread reminds me I need to replace my plugs and wires soon as well... with the same 41-962 plugs.

I'll defer to others on the manifold gasket...
 
Your double platinums will be fine. Iridiums are guaranteed for 100,000 miles, but that's a lot of driving with an RV. If you have trouble with the passenger side, you can always take the wheel off, block the frame, and you'll be greeted with this view.

93F57818-BF81-407F-8209-A9A2859CEF87.jpeg
 
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To further complicate matters AC Delco Professional plugs have two different sets of numbers on them. The 41-111 is 2621258. Also, the OP is correct about the 41-985 plug being the original. You can just make out that number on the original plug I removed from a 2008 6.0.


89995114-8069-43BB-B50D-608A508DA165.jpeg


5F8BBF85-3059-45DF-A01D-152BA17C59F1.jpeg


47E4F39F-B2D4-4778-8FC6-89C02847503B.jpeg
 
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Yup, Did my research and read that TSB that Mike posted.So in went 962's and walker wires on my 01 6.0 HD last summer right after I purchased the truck at dealer

No issues at all


Dave
 
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If you are doing the intake gaskets do yourself a favor and replace the knock sensors and the harness under there. Another common issue...

I run Autolite Iridium XPs in my Denali 6.0L - likely the last plugs I will ever need.
 
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Wow alot of good info posted, thanks everyone. And Mike for posting the TSB's. My searching skills failed last night. It's odd how they cut off the iridium's but double platinum it is. I do plan on taking the wheels off to gain access to the front section. That edge has already drawn blood twice.

I bet you're correct on the intake gasket. The one plug I did pull out was black. I'll have to look what pulling the intake will entail.. On the other vehicles I just unhooked what I had to and slide it out of the way. Not sure if I can get away with just the intake gasket or will need other gaskets also. FEL-PRO MS96587 or ACDELCO 89060413? The knock sensors just need to be resealed correct? A new harness doesn't look that expensive though.

The broken bolts looks flush with the exhaust manifold so I should have a little bit to work with. Plan on spraying it with PB Blaster for a few days and see if a small pipe wrench will do the trick. I did see the brackets mentioned. If I can't get the back on on the passenger side that'll be the only option. On the drivers side it's the front bolt. Dorman's are cheap but looks like everyone has good luck with those.. not sure if it's worth stainless steel bolts?

I would say this would be the last time I'll ever change the plugs but I've said that on two other vehicles and I was wrong.. I keep things way too long.
 
Originally Posted by hedge1

Also please advise on the correct place to ask my questions.


This forum (Mechanical/Maint) is the right one, but it's best to start your own thread.
 
Get the Fel-pro. They are better. Intake on those is easy. Do you have a dog house you can remove? I would pull the injectors out at the intake and move everything out of the way, but it is pretty easy to disconnect the lines if you have the tool.

One thing I can tell you about the knock sensors is to get genuine GM ones...I put aftermarket ones in the old truck and I was back in a month later. Get the harness too. Cheap insurance.


Yeah my Dorman brackets worked awesome. I had three on my truck. two on the drivers side, one on the back passenger. I made sure they were tight once a season. I was reluctant to try and pull all the fasteners as I broke one of the ones I had use a bracket for
I soaked it for days and it wouldn't budge. Heated it up no go. It is not just GM with exhaust manifold/manifold bolt issue. I would spend the extra money at initial purchase for a better manifolds and fastenesr.

Like I said they updated the fasteners on the 2017 but on the head. The shank is the same size...

Good luck Eric and let us know how you make out!
 
I'm not sure the electrical forum is a good spot spark plug questions IMO.

The dog house is removed. Rockauto doesn't list the knock sensors so not sure where I'll get those from. I'll wait till I have it apart to see what I need. So far the exhaust bolts are coming out.. that could change anytime though.

Another question would be should I get new intake bolts also? From what I read the factory locktite can skew torque readings. Maybe that won't matter with new gaskets.
 
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