Oiled Or Greased Studs?

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Originally Posted by 1978elcamino
2 seconds of ugga dugga's per lug nut, no lube needed.


I do about 1 second of ugga duggas.
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And I usually use an 80 ft-lbs torque stick. Whether or not I use lube depends on the application.
I always lightly lube the threads on my personal vehicles, because I said so, and that's it.
 
Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
I recently did a quickie brake job on 2007 TSX. Professionally maintained (whatever that means).
Everything was over torqued. Removing the caliper bolts required a 1/2" breaker bar and a ton of leverage.
Sheesh.

I had the same experience with the last used car I bought. ALL lugs were overtightened to where I had to stand on the breaker bar to remove each one. This is an exercise I do with all car purchases to make sure I can emergency change a flat on the side of the road.
 
Originally Posted by eyeofthetiger
Originally Posted by 1978elcamino
2 seconds of ugga dugga's per lug nut, no lube needed.


I do about 1 second of ugga duggas.
grin2.gif

And I usually use an 80 ft-lbs torque stick. Whether or not I use lube depends on the application.
I always lightly lube the threads on my personal vehicles, because I said so, and that's it.


I also use an 80lb torque stick with my ugga dugga's, the truck gets 100lb stick with the ugga dugga's.
 
Never oil nor grease on studs.
I do spray a bit of Hornady One Shot 'gun cleaner and dry lube' on the center nut that gets exposed when running winter steel rims. Keeps rust in check very well.
 
Originally Posted by TheLawnRanger
My pals Johnny, Ponyboy, and Dairy put grease on the studs. They've always been considered outsiders.


Those guys and Soda love grease.
 
Originally Posted by Railrust
Technically you're not supposed to add anything to the wheel studs, it changes the torque value when you tighten them.


The problem is that TQ on dry threads is not uniform. Stiction also gets into the act as you stop to reposition the wrench. You never do engine bottom end TQ's w/o high pressure assembly lube and those are washerless nuts held to rod caps by TQ alone.

Been putting lug bolts and nuts on cars and trucks up to Class 8 rigs for over 50 years with never-seize (dab of grease when no NS around) and never lost one yet ... That's literally thousands of lug nuts, studs and bolts.

They used to make left hand threads for the left side of the car fearing they would loosen ... Never did
smile.gif


the worst situation is a blow-out of flat and you can't break it loose because it's corroded in place. That happens a bazzillion times more often than one coming loose after proper TQ with never-seize ...
 
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i sometimes do a quick spray of some kind penetrating oil etc on some of my stuff that sits for a period of time with exposed studs.

usually on wheels that have a cap covering the studs/nuts I usually have no need to spray them.


sometimes i put a dab of antiseize just around the where the rim mates to the hub so it doesn't get seized on the hub over time.
 
Originally Posted by Mr_Luke
In the Prius owner manual they tell you not to oil or grease the wheel studs because the nuts may loosen.
I've been lubing mine for decades and never seemed to notice any problems with wheels loosening.

Do you lube your studs or not?



Hog wash. I use anti-seize and torque to the low end of the spec range. Been working great for years across multiple platforms. I suspect this anachronism comes from shade tree wrenches (or others) who avoid using a proper torque wrench for this.
 
Originally Posted by buck91


Hog wash. I use anti-seize and torque to the low end of the spec range. Been working great for years across multiple platforms. I suspect this anachronism comes from shade tree wrenches (or others) who avoid using a proper torque wrench for this.


This ^

If you generously lube the threads and / or the lug nut seat, then gorilla tighten, you WILL stretch the stud or break stuff. The lubrication allows you to tighten the fastener WAY MORE than a dry thread would.

100 + ft lbs on a well lubricated stud can very well stretch the stud the equivalent to 250 or 300 ft lbs on a dry stud. And if your car specs an 80 ft lb torque, now you have a problem.
 
Chuck Norris has to put a friction increaser on the threads and then be careful not to break the whole wheel off.
 
So I use dry threads. I use antiseize on the mating surfaces between the wheel and the hub - especially around the center hole. I even go so far as to clean the threads and the mating surface between the lug nuts and the wheel with brake cleaner.
 
Originally Posted by CapriRacer
I use antiseize on the mating surfaces between the wheel and the hub - especially around the center hole.

I think U-Haul also does that practice of anti-seize on the wheel-hub mating surfaces, a sticker on the van says to apply Never-Seez when a wheel is changed.
 
It's all simple common sense. If the threads are clean and dry, leave them alone. If everything is crusty, sticky, and nasty, clean everything up, and use minimal lubricants. Just simply WD-40 is usually enough.
 
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I changed the tires on somebody's car years ago, that had so much anti-seize slobbered all over everything, I looked like the Tin Man from the Wizard of Oz when I was finished. I think the lug nuts where still turning when is should had been up to torque a 1/2 turn sooner. Had to stop before the torque wrench clicked.
 
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I didn't read the whole thread as its undoubtedly like anti seize on spark plug responses. Some cars even with perfectly clean, rust free studs or bolts can be torqued to the correct spec and still have them seized, so tight a 24" breaker bar has a hard time.
This is from one manufacturers owners manual, draw your own conclusions. I use a very slight dab of never seize on them and never had one loosed in 48 years.

[Linked Image]
 
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