Driveshaft Index

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How important is it when reinstalling a front driveshaft (AWD) to up the bolts/hole exactly as they came apart? I removed the front driveshaft in my wife's Mountaineer a few months ago and now I need to reinstall it. I made marks, or so I thought, but I can't seem to find them now.
 
The driveshaft assembly itself is balanced. I do not think it matters how it hooks up to the transfer case, transmission or differential. But it does matter for the driveshaft itself to keep it in balance.
 
Originally Posted by rubberchicken
The driveshaft assembly itself is balanced. I do not think it matters how it hooks up to the transfer case, transmission or differential.


This.

The driveshaft is balanced independently of the bits what attach to it so it should not make a difference how it goes back on, as long as driveshaft itself remains balanced.
 
Originally Posted by scurvy
Originally Posted by rubberchicken
The driveshaft assembly itself is balanced. I do not think it matters how it hooks up to the transfer case, transmission or differential.


This.

The driveshaft is balanced independently of the bits what attach to it so it should not make a difference how it goes back on, as long as driveshaft itself remains balanced.


Okay, thanks all, this is what I had always thought about it being balanced unto itself but always saw videos and write ups that said "make sure to mark the position before removal".

I think I need to try to find a suitable replacement for the front diff yoke strap bolts. They're currently a way-too-smal Torx bit and I broke on of my bits trying to get the shaft off in the first place.
 
I always marked my Mustang's when I removed it and had heard of people saying they'd get a vibration with the stock steel driveshaft if it wasn't indexed and then they'd rotate it til the vibes went away. I replaced it with an aluminum driveshaft so it didn't matter at that point.
 
It's not a question of balance. Indexing is a concern if there is runout at the yoke or pinion flange. Think of a small wobble, in the degree of thousands of an inch. In that case, you are trying to match the high spot on the yoke with the low spot on the flange (or vice versa) to eliminate it as much as possible. If needed, the factory would have done this already, which is why it's usually recommended to mark and reinstall as it was.

But, if there is no runout, it won't matter how it's reinstalled. I'll bet that is the case for you.

Worst case, if you end up with a vibration, keep rotating the position until the vibration goes away. Not a big deal.
 
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