I did the same type of piston soak in my 2008 except used the GM top end cleaner for about 6 soaks. Went from 1 quart every 3500 miles to about 1/2 quart in 5000 miles
2007 Prius Piston Soak
- Thread starter oggb
- Start date
Well, only about 200 miles since the soak - thought it would be more by now. Wife says it "feels better" and start/stops the ICE more smoothly. Forgot to check MPG.
Still getting P0420 (which I expected). Oh well. Guess my next project might be catalytic converter and O2 sensors.
Still getting P0420 (which I expected). Oh well. Guess my next project might be catalytic converter and O2 sensors.
When the car auto-stops the engine, is it sometimes really rough? Almost like it's dieseling a little, or gives a noticeable jerk to the car? My dad's Prius has been burning oil for years and does this often.
Looking forward (sort of) to doing this to the 220k mile Prius in a few months. Switching to 15w40 has helped oil consumption as well, looks like lots of posts here about using 15w40 in the Prius with barely any effect (an MPG or two)
My 'parts are barely touching' UOA https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...veller-15w40-cj-4-sn-6500-mi#Post5255894
My 'parts are barely touching' UOA https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...veller-15w40-cj-4-sn-6500-mi#Post5255894
Few more miles. Intake plenum has some "stuff" in it already. I'm not sure I remember it accumulating so fast before, but in theory it might have -- the 1NZ-FXE pushes some of the intake charge back into the plenum. In any case, it hasn't burnt a noticeable amount of oil.
Originally Posted by cjolson140
When the car auto-stops the engine, is it sometimes really rough? Almost like it's dieseling a little, or gives a noticeable jerk to the car? My dad's Prius has been burning oil for years and does this often.
Every now and then. I think that could have something to do with residue that builds up in the intake plenum. Take the airbox off and open the throttle body carefully and you'll see a puddle of oil/whatever down there. I just hold the throttle body open with an adjustable wrench on the spring mechanism and use some extra long needle-nose pliers and shop rags to dab it all out. Clean the throttle plate/throttle body while you're at, and the MAF too. Disconnect the battery for a few seconds and reconnect it.
Originally Posted by atomix8
Looking forward (sort of) to doing this to the 220k mile Prius in a few months. Switching to 15w40 has helped oil consumption as well, looks like lots of posts here about using 15w40 in the Prius with barely any effect (an MPG or two)
My 'parts are barely touching' UOA https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...veller-15w40-cj-4-sn-6500-mi#Post5255894
I tried running Rotella 15w-40, T5 10w-40, T6 5w-40. It drinks everything about the same ... besides Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. It guzzles that stuff like a 7.3 Powerstroke guzzles diesel pulling a 15,000 lb trailer. No exaggeration -- it burned two full quarts in less than 1000 miles. My WRX had the same habit of drinking PP 5w-30, so I'm not surprised.
Originally Posted by cjolson140
When the car auto-stops the engine, is it sometimes really rough? Almost like it's dieseling a little, or gives a noticeable jerk to the car? My dad's Prius has been burning oil for years and does this often.
Every now and then. I think that could have something to do with residue that builds up in the intake plenum. Take the airbox off and open the throttle body carefully and you'll see a puddle of oil/whatever down there. I just hold the throttle body open with an adjustable wrench on the spring mechanism and use some extra long needle-nose pliers and shop rags to dab it all out. Clean the throttle plate/throttle body while you're at, and the MAF too. Disconnect the battery for a few seconds and reconnect it.
Originally Posted by atomix8
Looking forward (sort of) to doing this to the 220k mile Prius in a few months. Switching to 15w40 has helped oil consumption as well, looks like lots of posts here about using 15w40 in the Prius with barely any effect (an MPG or two)
My 'parts are barely touching' UOA https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...veller-15w40-cj-4-sn-6500-mi#Post5255894
I tried running Rotella 15w-40, T5 10w-40, T6 5w-40. It drinks everything about the same ... besides Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. It guzzles that stuff like a 7.3 Powerstroke guzzles diesel pulling a 15,000 lb trailer. No exaggeration -- it burned two full quarts in less than 1000 miles. My WRX had the same habit of drinking PP 5w-30, so I'm not surprised.
Originally Posted by JRed
Few more miles. Intake plenum has some "stuff" in it already. I'm not sure I remember it accumulating so fast before, but in theory it might have -- the 1NZ-FXE pushes some of the intake charge back into the plenum. In any case, it hasn't burnt a noticeable amount of oil.
Originally Posted by cjolson140
When the car auto-stops the engine, is it sometimes really rough? Almost like it's dieseling a little, or gives a noticeable jerk to the car? My dad's Prius has been burning oil for years and does this often.
Every now and then. I think that could have something to do with residue that builds up in the intake plenum. Take the airbox off and open the throttle body carefully and you'll see a puddle of oil/whatever down there. I just hold the throttle body open with an adjustable wrench on the spring mechanism and use some extra long needle-nose pliers and shop rags to dab it all out. Clean the throttle plate/throttle body while you're at, and the MAF too. Disconnect the battery for a few seconds and reconnect it.
Originally Posted by atomix8
Looking forward (sort of) to doing this to the 220k mile Prius in a few months. Switching to 15w40 has helped oil consumption as well, looks like lots of posts here about using 15w40 in the Prius with barely any effect (an MPG or two)
My 'parts are barely touching' UOA https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...veller-15w40-cj-4-sn-6500-mi#Post5255894
I tried running Rotella 15w-40, T5 10w-40, T6 5w-40. It drinks everything about the same ... besides Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. It guzzles that stuff like a 7.3 Powerstroke guzzles diesel pulling a 15,000 lb trailer. No exaggeration -- it burned two full quarts in less than 1000 miles. My WRX had the same habit of drinking PP 5w-30, so I'm not surprised.
It's the bolded bit that fixes it. You'll get P319X "low power" or "fail to start" codes due to muck build up on plate/body. Car compensates for it up to a point, but once it exceeds that threshold, rough starts and failed starts are the norm.
Really interested to see how this plays out. I have 6 of these things in the extended family. The PCV valve seems to have helped one a bit, but I'd like to give this a shot if it makes a difference.
Thanks!
Few more miles. Intake plenum has some "stuff" in it already. I'm not sure I remember it accumulating so fast before, but in theory it might have -- the 1NZ-FXE pushes some of the intake charge back into the plenum. In any case, it hasn't burnt a noticeable amount of oil.
Originally Posted by cjolson140
When the car auto-stops the engine, is it sometimes really rough? Almost like it's dieseling a little, or gives a noticeable jerk to the car? My dad's Prius has been burning oil for years and does this often.
Every now and then. I think that could have something to do with residue that builds up in the intake plenum. Take the airbox off and open the throttle body carefully and you'll see a puddle of oil/whatever down there. I just hold the throttle body open with an adjustable wrench on the spring mechanism and use some extra long needle-nose pliers and shop rags to dab it all out. Clean the throttle plate/throttle body while you're at, and the MAF too. Disconnect the battery for a few seconds and reconnect it.
Originally Posted by atomix8
Looking forward (sort of) to doing this to the 220k mile Prius in a few months. Switching to 15w40 has helped oil consumption as well, looks like lots of posts here about using 15w40 in the Prius with barely any effect (an MPG or two)
My 'parts are barely touching' UOA https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...veller-15w40-cj-4-sn-6500-mi#Post5255894
I tried running Rotella 15w-40, T5 10w-40, T6 5w-40. It drinks everything about the same ... besides Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. It guzzles that stuff like a 7.3 Powerstroke guzzles diesel pulling a 15,000 lb trailer. No exaggeration -- it burned two full quarts in less than 1000 miles. My WRX had the same habit of drinking PP 5w-30, so I'm not surprised.
It's the bolded bit that fixes it. You'll get P319X "low power" or "fail to start" codes due to muck build up on plate/body. Car compensates for it up to a point, but once it exceeds that threshold, rough starts and failed starts are the norm.
Really interested to see how this plays out. I have 6 of these things in the extended family. The PCV valve seems to have helped one a bit, but I'd like to give this a shot if it makes a difference.
Thanks!
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Originally Posted by snoobler
Originally Posted by JRed
Few more miles. Intake plenum has some "stuff" in it already. I'm not sure I remember it accumulating so fast before, but in theory it might have -- the 1NZ-FXE pushes some of the intake charge back into the plenum. In any case, it hasn't burnt a noticeable amount of oil.
Originally Posted by cjolson140
When the car auto-stops the engine, is it sometimes really rough? Almost like it's dieseling a little, or gives a noticeable jerk to the car? My dad's Prius has been burning oil for years and does this often.
Every now and then. I think that could have something to do with residue that builds up in the intake plenum. Take the airbox off and open the throttle body carefully and you'll see a puddle of oil/whatever down there. I just hold the throttle body open with an adjustable wrench on the spring mechanism and use some extra long needle-nose pliers and shop rags to dab it all out. Clean the throttle plate/throttle body while you're at, and the MAF too. Disconnect the battery for a few seconds and reconnect it.
Originally Posted by atomix8
Looking forward (sort of) to doing this to the 220k mile Prius in a few months. Switching to 15w40 has helped oil consumption as well, looks like lots of posts here about using 15w40 in the Prius with barely any effect (an MPG or two)
My 'parts are barely touching' UOA https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...veller-15w40-cj-4-sn-6500-mi#Post5255894
I tried running Rotella 15w-40, T5 10w-40, T6 5w-40. It drinks everything about the same ... besides Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. It guzzles that stuff like a 7.3 Powerstroke guzzles diesel pulling a 15,000 lb trailer. No exaggeration -- it burned two full quarts in less than 1000 miles. My WRX had the same habit of drinking PP 5w-30, so I'm not surprised.
It's the bolded bit that fixes it. You'll get P319X "low power" or "fail to start" codes due to muck build up on plate/body. Car compensates for it up to a point, but once it exceeds that threshold, rough starts and failed starts are the norm.
Really interested to see how this plays out. I have 6 of these things in the extended family. The PCV valve seems to have helped one a bit, but I'd like to give this a shot if it makes a difference.
Thanks!
350 miles since the soak. Wife and I have both been driving the car harder than usual as a sort of "stress test". I filled the oil as exactly to the full mark as I could, ran the car for a bit, and refilled to full.
The oil level hasn't changed at all so far as I can tell, and it would normally be around 1/4 to 1/3rd of a quart low - an amount that would definitely move the oil off of the full mark on the dipstick.
Don't want to claim it cured the oil burning just yet, but it seems promising. It certainly hasn't made it any worse.
Originally Posted by JRed
Few more miles. Intake plenum has some "stuff" in it already. I'm not sure I remember it accumulating so fast before, but in theory it might have -- the 1NZ-FXE pushes some of the intake charge back into the plenum. In any case, it hasn't burnt a noticeable amount of oil.
Originally Posted by cjolson140
When the car auto-stops the engine, is it sometimes really rough? Almost like it's dieseling a little, or gives a noticeable jerk to the car? My dad's Prius has been burning oil for years and does this often.
Every now and then. I think that could have something to do with residue that builds up in the intake plenum. Take the airbox off and open the throttle body carefully and you'll see a puddle of oil/whatever down there. I just hold the throttle body open with an adjustable wrench on the spring mechanism and use some extra long needle-nose pliers and shop rags to dab it all out. Clean the throttle plate/throttle body while you're at, and the MAF too. Disconnect the battery for a few seconds and reconnect it.
Originally Posted by atomix8
Looking forward (sort of) to doing this to the 220k mile Prius in a few months. Switching to 15w40 has helped oil consumption as well, looks like lots of posts here about using 15w40 in the Prius with barely any effect (an MPG or two)
My 'parts are barely touching' UOA https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...veller-15w40-cj-4-sn-6500-mi#Post5255894
I tried running Rotella 15w-40, T5 10w-40, T6 5w-40. It drinks everything about the same ... besides Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. It guzzles that stuff like a 7.3 Powerstroke guzzles diesel pulling a 15,000 lb trailer. No exaggeration -- it burned two full quarts in less than 1000 miles. My WRX had the same habit of drinking PP 5w-30, so I'm not surprised.
It's the bolded bit that fixes it. You'll get P319X "low power" or "fail to start" codes due to muck build up on plate/body. Car compensates for it up to a point, but once it exceeds that threshold, rough starts and failed starts are the norm.
Really interested to see how this plays out. I have 6 of these things in the extended family. The PCV valve seems to have helped one a bit, but I'd like to give this a shot if it makes a difference.
Thanks!
350 miles since the soak. Wife and I have both been driving the car harder than usual as a sort of "stress test". I filled the oil as exactly to the full mark as I could, ran the car for a bit, and refilled to full.
The oil level hasn't changed at all so far as I can tell, and it would normally be around 1/4 to 1/3rd of a quart low - an amount that would definitely move the oil off of the full mark on the dipstick.
Don't want to claim it cured the oil burning just yet, but it seems promising. It certainly hasn't made it any worse.
Good luck. My altima pistons looked similar and all the kreen and piston soaks in the world were temporary at best. My car was serviced since new, often under the recommended intervals and never over. I've given up to the point of living with it or putting a new used engine in it that, may not run as well and or maybe have the same issue.
Originally Posted by JRed
Going to call this a success. Oil is staying cleaner and burning has been greatly reduced - so little that I'm not going to bother adding oil.
1100 miles and I would guess less than 1/4 quart of oil burned.
This is awesome. A friend has one that guzzles oil at 280K miles. Going to see if he wants to give it a shot!
Going to call this a success. Oil is staying cleaner and burning has been greatly reduced - so little that I'm not going to bother adding oil.
1100 miles and I would guess less than 1/4 quart of oil burned.
This is awesome. A friend has one that guzzles oil at 280K miles. Going to see if he wants to give it a shot!
Just checking in.
Approx 2100 miles since piston soak. I'd say 1/4 qt or less of oil has been burned. Pretty happy with that.
I probably could have swapped the engine in the time I spent doing the piston soak, but I'd really like to see just how long this one can go with my wife driving it as though the gas pedal has two settings - WOT and idle.
Approx 2100 miles since piston soak. I'd say 1/4 qt or less of oil has been burned. Pretty happy with that.
I probably could have swapped the engine in the time I spent doing the piston soak, but I'd really like to see just how long this one can go with my wife driving it as though the gas pedal has two settings - WOT and idle.
Maybe that was my problem with mine. I try and baby my cars while my wife drives like she's gotta poop. I did one last 1k mile run with maxlife 0-20 (car calls for 5-30) and 16 ounces of kreen and beat the daylights out of it. I changed the oil to castrol gtx which I've never used in this car, but have only driven 100 miles. I've got an engine in the garage with 30k on it so I figured if it blew up it'd do me a favor. I'm glad yours has seemed to work. If I could get mine to a quart every 2k I'd be content.
Originally Posted by D1dad
Maybe that was my problem with mine. I try and baby my cars while my wife drives like she's gotta poop. I did one last 1k mile run with maxlife 0-20 (car calls for 5-30) and 16 ounces of kreen and beat the daylights out of it. I changed the oil to castrol gtx which I've never used in this car, but have only driven 100 miles. I've got an engine in the garage with 30k on it so I figured if it blew up it'd do me a favor. I'm glad yours has seemed to work. If I could get mine to a quart every 2k I'd be content.
Drives like she has to poop! Ha!
Still doing fine. Hasn't burned enough for me to feel the need to add oil yet. Around 3300 miles. Engine still starts and stops much better.
Brake actuator has been running a lot lately, and the display with the fuel level/speed/etc. went blank the other morning, but came back on when I toggled the headlights a few times. Wondering if it could just be the headlight switch and not the MFD.
Maybe that was my problem with mine. I try and baby my cars while my wife drives like she's gotta poop. I did one last 1k mile run with maxlife 0-20 (car calls for 5-30) and 16 ounces of kreen and beat the daylights out of it. I changed the oil to castrol gtx which I've never used in this car, but have only driven 100 miles. I've got an engine in the garage with 30k on it so I figured if it blew up it'd do me a favor. I'm glad yours has seemed to work. If I could get mine to a quart every 2k I'd be content.
Drives like she has to poop! Ha!
Still doing fine. Hasn't burned enough for me to feel the need to add oil yet. Around 3300 miles. Engine still starts and stops much better.
Brake actuator has been running a lot lately, and the display with the fuel level/speed/etc. went blank the other morning, but came back on when I toggled the headlights a few times. Wondering if it could just be the headlight switch and not the MFD.
Originally Posted by JRed
Originally Posted by D1dad
Maybe that was my problem with mine. I try and baby my cars while my wife drives like she's gotta poop. I did one last 1k mile run with maxlife 0-20 (car calls for 5-30) and 16 ounces of kreen and beat the daylights out of it. I changed the oil to castrol gtx which I've never used in this car, but have only driven 100 miles. I've got an engine in the garage with 30k on it so I figured if it blew up it'd do me a favor. I'm glad yours has seemed to work. If I could get mine to a quart every 2k I'd be content.
Drives like she has to poop! Ha!
Still doing fine. Hasn't burned enough for me to feel the need to add oil yet. Around 3300 miles. Engine still starts and stops much better.
(1) Brake actuator has been running a lot lately, and the (2) display with the fuel level/speed/etc. went blank the other morning, but came back on when I toggled the headlights a few times. Wondering if it could just be the headlight switch and not the MFD.
(1) Boost pump "whirring" sound with increasing frequency is an initial sign of an ABS actuator failure. Mine's been doing it for about 50K miles...
(2) Need to clarify:
Display that shows speed, fuel, etc. is the combination (combo) meter.
MFD is the touch screen in the center of the dash, and you didn't indicate a problem with it.
You switched back and forth between the two displays in your message. Not entirely clear.
It's possible the dash brightness is turned so low that the combo meter isn't visible in daylight when the lights are on.
If the speedo is out, and your entire dash cluster shows nothing except maybe a brief flash of the CEL, but the car still starts and drives, AND you have to press and hold the power button to shut the car off, your combo meter has failed. DIY repair by replacing a capacitor on it (youtube "combo meter repair") or order one with your odo pre-programmed from http://www.texashybridbatteries.com for $150.
A failed combo meter doesn't come back on unless you power cycle the car; however, even then, it's intermittent. I suspect it was your dash dimmer switch as nothing else makes sense.
Originally Posted by D1dad
Maybe that was my problem with mine. I try and baby my cars while my wife drives like she's gotta poop. I did one last 1k mile run with maxlife 0-20 (car calls for 5-30) and 16 ounces of kreen and beat the daylights out of it. I changed the oil to castrol gtx which I've never used in this car, but have only driven 100 miles. I've got an engine in the garage with 30k on it so I figured if it blew up it'd do me a favor. I'm glad yours has seemed to work. If I could get mine to a quart every 2k I'd be content.
Drives like she has to poop! Ha!
Still doing fine. Hasn't burned enough for me to feel the need to add oil yet. Around 3300 miles. Engine still starts and stops much better.
(1) Brake actuator has been running a lot lately, and the (2) display with the fuel level/speed/etc. went blank the other morning, but came back on when I toggled the headlights a few times. Wondering if it could just be the headlight switch and not the MFD.
(1) Boost pump "whirring" sound with increasing frequency is an initial sign of an ABS actuator failure. Mine's been doing it for about 50K miles...
(2) Need to clarify:
Display that shows speed, fuel, etc. is the combination (combo) meter.
MFD is the touch screen in the center of the dash, and you didn't indicate a problem with it.
You switched back and forth between the two displays in your message. Not entirely clear.
It's possible the dash brightness is turned so low that the combo meter isn't visible in daylight when the lights are on.
If the speedo is out, and your entire dash cluster shows nothing except maybe a brief flash of the CEL, but the car still starts and drives, AND you have to press and hold the power button to shut the car off, your combo meter has failed. DIY repair by replacing a capacitor on it (youtube "combo meter repair") or order one with your odo pre-programmed from http://www.texashybridbatteries.com for $150.
A failed combo meter doesn't come back on unless you power cycle the car; however, even then, it's intermittent. I suspect it was your dash dimmer switch as nothing else makes sense.
I try and update my threads every so often -- the oil burning is still greatly reduced. So much so that I haven't needed to add oil between changes. Your mileage may vary, but it definitely worked for me.
Had a battery cell go bad a few months ago. Spent a week refurbishing the pack and the car was as good as new. Very labor intensive and time consuming to balance the pack. I hope to not need to do it again for a while.
Had a battery cell go bad a few months ago. Spent a week refurbishing the pack and the car was as good as new. Very labor intensive and time consuming to balance the pack. I hope to not need to do it again for a while.
Many thanks for all your info and updates!
I recently acquired a 2007 Prius also—sounds remarkably similar to yours in terms of oil consumption.
This thing has more carbon than mom’s pot roast, so I did a two day soak with B12. My photography isn’t nearly as good as yours, but it cleaned A LOT of carbon off the piston tops.
Let’s hope it helps oil consumption as much as it did with yours! I’ll try to post an update in the future.
Yeah I was honestly amazed at the amount of carbon. Hope it helps!
UPDATE
Alright, I think I’m ready to declare this a success for my ‘07 Prius as well.
It’s been 500 miles since the soak. Oil consumption is drastically reduced so far. Previous owner states consumption was as bad as 1 qt. per 500 miles in some cases.
With fresh GTX HM 10w-40 after the soak, oil level is down maybe 1/16” in 500 miles.
Before you call 10w-40 “cheating” to reduce consumption, I tried SuperTech 10w-40 before the soak, and 1/2 qt. was gone in 850 miles.
The oil is still very light colored and “new” looking at 500 miles, whereas the oil turned really dark amber to black in just a few miles previously. I know you can’t tell much by how oil “looks” to the naked eye, but this all lines up and makes sense to me, at least.
I’ll try to post an update in the future as well. So far, I’d completely recommend a piston soak if you have a Prius with a drinking problem.
I guess the acid test will be getting back to a 5w-30 synthetic for the cold MT winters.
Alright, I think I’m ready to declare this a success for my ‘07 Prius as well.
It’s been 500 miles since the soak. Oil consumption is drastically reduced so far. Previous owner states consumption was as bad as 1 qt. per 500 miles in some cases.
With fresh GTX HM 10w-40 after the soak, oil level is down maybe 1/16” in 500 miles.
Before you call 10w-40 “cheating” to reduce consumption, I tried SuperTech 10w-40 before the soak, and 1/2 qt. was gone in 850 miles.
The oil is still very light colored and “new” looking at 500 miles, whereas the oil turned really dark amber to black in just a few miles previously. I know you can’t tell much by how oil “looks” to the naked eye, but this all lines up and makes sense to me, at least.
I’ll try to post an update in the future as well. So far, I’d completely recommend a piston soak if you have a Prius with a drinking problem.
I guess the acid test will be getting back to a 5w-30 synthetic for the cold MT winters.
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The wife drives it hard and the Prius engine does not live an easy life like people assume. It still is a small engine working hard when driven hard, and 200 k is a lot for it. I honestly think strict 5k oil changes would give less oil burning down the road. Less wear.
It’s also probably worth noting that I had tried a variety of easy/lazy stuff before doing the soak, which is also pretty easy, just time-consuming.
I used aerosol Seafoam through the intake and did the typical hot soak/smoke show thing. However, I didn’t get all that much smoke. It may have helped, but it wasn’t the golden goose.
I tried BG44K, Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner, CataClean, and Seafoam in separate tanks of fuel. Same deal, certainly didn’t make things worse, didn’t “fix” oil consumption.
I used BG EPR and Seafoam in the crankcase before separate oil changes. Both seemed to get lots of “crap” out, but the drinking continued.
Use this for what it’s worth, just my experience and observations. This has been my little “mad science” experiment.
I’m normally not a fan of additives, especially in the oil, but I decided to throw caution mostly to the wind on this deal. Car was headed to the scrapper, so I didn’t figure I had much to lose. Hopefully, now I have a reliable commuter car that gets 42+ MPG on the highway.
I used aerosol Seafoam through the intake and did the typical hot soak/smoke show thing. However, I didn’t get all that much smoke. It may have helped, but it wasn’t the golden goose.
I tried BG44K, Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner, CataClean, and Seafoam in separate tanks of fuel. Same deal, certainly didn’t make things worse, didn’t “fix” oil consumption.
I used BG EPR and Seafoam in the crankcase before separate oil changes. Both seemed to get lots of “crap” out, but the drinking continued.
Use this for what it’s worth, just my experience and observations. This has been my little “mad science” experiment.
I’m normally not a fan of additives, especially in the oil, but I decided to throw caution mostly to the wind on this deal. Car was headed to the scrapper, so I didn’t figure I had much to lose. Hopefully, now I have a reliable commuter car that gets 42+ MPG on the highway.
