2007 MDX Sadly not 200k review

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Jul 11, 2015
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New England
I purchased my 2007 Acura MDX Technology (Nav, Fancy stereo with DVD audio, Talk to Car, Bluetooth) in 2011 with 84k in average condition but meticulous maintenance at dealer (CarFax) from the owner for $17k(trade in offered to him).

It has been good in terms of reliability and really maintenance over my 9 year ownership period.

I followed the vehicle computer reminder in terms of services for oil, transmission(2x), AWD(once). I only ignored the valve adjustment and had timing belt only (no water pump/tblet tensioners etc) for $550 + $200 plugs at 105k. Most services done at small garage and never exceeded $100 - $150.

Unexpected repairs: ~($1000)
105k acc belt tensioner - $100
100k and 150k - two AC relays self installed for $10 Honda part each time, too cheap to buy the $30 revised on that did not croak
140k - Speed sensor - $140
150k - exhaust donut and bolts - $80
185k - transmission pressure sensor - $200
170k - alternator - $500

Pros:
*Powerful smooth Honda V6 (300HP),
* incredible AWD (can shift power front to back and even individual wheel and overspeed them slightly for handling)
* Comfortable front back for 4 passengers, but can handle 7 which has been great
* Low cost maintenance except the $800 105k service(plugs/timing belt/skipped valve adjustment)
* durable parts - still running around on original struts and suspension parts - tired but works
* Everything you touch feels decent and well though out
* Still smooth/repsonive 5 speed Honda auto despite everyone thinking Honda transmissions are questionable
* My $65/hr small garage (one man show) Subie specialist works on it with pleasure and ease. Honda's are easy/simple service for him

Cons:
* Rust between wheel wheel and door both side, one has a hole now
* Poor MPG/fuel pig (17.5 average) on Premium. Best is 22 MPG highway worst is 15MPG city/cold
* Wind leaks since I bought it
* Leather was lower grade and wore faster IMHO then luxury and even VW cars I have seen

The potential death is going to be severe rust at some poor body work when I purchased and is getting estimates of $1200+ to fix. It won't pass NH state inspection
frown.gif


Bummed I wish it could have hit 200k but have 195k. Debating to buy another recent generation MDX and have a do over or fix the rust and drive another 1-2 years.

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You live in the rust & salt belt and yet you did not have it treated for rust? There is a company manufacturing rust prevention products called "NH Coatings" in your state. Buy one rust free and have it treated.
 
That's a lot of rust. You can sink $2K into bodywork and it will likely fail NH inspection next year. My sister had a Honda Pilot that looked like that (Michigan) and drove it for another year - then the rear subframe came loose over a bump while she was driving. Not good. She and my niece were OK. The Pilot was DOA.

If the external panels look like that, then the entire unibody, including critical points like the subframe mounts, is not far behind.

I would junk this one and move on. Your purchase of a clean (hopefully Southern/no rust) used car is a great strategy, and one I would recommend you employ again.
 
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111kmiles for $17k in depreciation (well you could flip this for maybe a grand or two on CL?). 15c/m depreciation. Seems high but not awful, maybe that was all part of the plan--go easy on repairs and maintenance, skip on anti-corrosion measures, save on that money and accept that it'll die sooner. All part of a nuanced plan, maybe?

I'd crawl under and look at the rest of it. If it was somehow (magically) clean underneath, I'd grind off the rust and JB Weld in some aluminum flashing (don't laugh, I did this and got a couple years out of it before moving on). But if it was crusty underneath, time to move on. Go south and get a clean one, or pony up the money and get pretty recent up here. And then decide if you want to do a repeat or if you want to FF/Krown/(RP-342?LeakySeals seems to like something like this) and eek out more miles.
 
If I lived up there I would treat my vehicles every year with Fluid Film or Krown. And if I bought used I would buy vehicles from the South. No rust down here.
 
can you sell the drivetrain to some nutty kid who wntas to put in in a old accord?
say 1800 bucks.

C.L. the good body panels, tires and wheels. the rest to the chipper and back to Asia it goes

should make 3 gs.
 
A good and fair review imo. For comparison, have a same year Accord 3.0L w ~100k mi. and body looks nothing like that ie,, no body rust noted. I'd expect that for rust treatment to have been most effective original owner would have had to be a contributor. I had to have headliner refinished recently, even though a garaged vehicle, sat outside in sun all day during work day. Seeing pics of body panels like topic reminds me of no regrets putting the northeast salt and sand in the rearview four decades ago.

Personally I would not put $1200k+ into body repair. As noted, doubtful the cost benefit would be positive.
 
15.3 cents per mile depreciation for loaded car. Sounds about right. MPG sounds right too for AWD. You should have no gripes or regrets walking away.

If you put $1200 into it, you need to get 8,000 miles out of it with no repairs to amortize the expense. Of course you want to do more than breakeven. Although the trend looks to me like it is gong to start to more than nickel and dime you. Unless you are a real penny pincher, probably time to move on.

Thanks for the data.
 
Auto Rust Technicians.
275 Niantic Ave
Cranston, RI
401-944-4444
800-407-7024

They can fix your rust for probably HALF what a typical shop would charge, and they do excellent work.
 
Cost of doing business and living in the snow belt is rust. You can slow it down with all sorts of rust treatments and such, but eventually it will get you.
 
Almost jumped on a mint condition 2007 MDX last year with 200K for $5K. (Baltimore area private sale) Had dozens of maintenance records, clean title and was babied. The poor MPG and premium gas was the straw the broke the camels back for me.
 
Rust is a real killer of vehicles up north, yet I would say most owners are not aware of oil based rust proofing and if informed of such a thing will question its validity.

Even here on BITOG, I see people either not being aware or questioning if it works. Many claiming that factory rust proofing is all one needs.

Problem is that there is no quick way to find out. One has to keep a vehicle for around 10 years or so to see the effects of rust. Same goes for rust proofing. You won't noti e the benefits of you don't work on the car yourself or don't keep it long enough
 
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Auto Rust Technicians.
275 Niantic Ave
Cranston, RI
401-944-4444
800-407-7024

They can fix your rust for probably HALF what a typical shop would charge, and they do excellent work.

Do you have personal experience with them? How would one handle the logistics if they are not local?
 
Originally Posted by Vikas
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Auto Rust Technicians.
275 Niantic Ave
Cranston, RI
401-944-4444
800-407-7024

They can fix your rust for probably HALF what a typical shop would charge, and they do excellent work.

Do you have personal experience with them? How would one handle the logistics if they are not local?

Yes, I do...their work is exceptional.

OP is in New Hampshire, 2-3 hours away. In his situation, I would probably drive down, rent a car (Enterprise is next door to Auto Rust Technicians) to get home, and reverse the procedure when mine was ready.
 
Has this vehicle had any bodywork done previously? The panel gap between the door and wheel arch doesn't look right to me. But I agree with other posters, not worth sinking money into this one.
 
Originally Posted by buddylpal
Has this vehicle had any bodywork done previously? The panel gap between the door and wheel arch doesn't look right to me. But I agree with other posters, not worth sinking money into this one.


The reason it rotted so bad was poor body work before I purchased and missed. The weld looks perfect above like a robot did it however near the rotted area got a bit messy.

At the time a dealer would have used retail on the MDX for $25k and I got for $17.5k from private owner(apparently trade in offered). It spent first four years of life seaside and exposed to New England salt/parked oceanfront in a town called Manchester by the Sea.
 
Originally Posted by madRiver
...The reason it rotted so bad was poor body work before I purchased and missed. The weld looks perfect above like a robot did it however near the rotted area got a bit messy.

...It spent first four years of life seaside and exposed to New England salt/parked oceanfront in a town called Manchester by the Sea.
Ok, obviously that didn't help with the rust factor. As noted and especially with added info, for rust treatment to have been most effective original owner would have had to be involved.
 
Originally Posted by madRiver
Originally Posted by buddylpal
Has this vehicle had any bodywork done previously? The panel gap between the door and wheel arch doesn't look right to me. But I agree with other posters, not worth sinking money into this one.


The reason it rotted so bad was poor body work before I purchased and missed. The weld looks perfect above like a robot did it however near the rotted area got a bit messy.

At the time a dealer would have used retail on the MDX for $25k and I got for $17.5k from private owner(apparently trade in offered). It spent first four years of life seaside and exposed to New England salt/parked oceanfront in a town called Manchester by the Sea.

I was wondering why it is so, so bad. But what you now said makes sense.
 
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