Pressurized Well Tank & Digital Control

Status
Not open for further replies.

GON

$100 Site Donor 2024
Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
7,730
Location
Steilacoom, WA
Every ten years I replace my pressurized well tank as part of preventive maintenance. I have super iron water and I simply replace all the hardware from the pump inlet to the iron filter.

Pricing new tanks this morning at Menards and came across this :

Water Worker® Plumb n Run; 44 Gallon Pressurized Well Tank & Digital Control
Model Number: HT44-PNR Menards® SKU: 6913385

Not sure if I am reading this correctly- seems to imply it may increase water pressure in homes with private wells. My water pressure is not so good.

Has anyone seen/ used this type of pressure tank?

The Water Worker® Plumb 'n' Run system combines city-like water pressure utilizing an existing pump. It's the perfect alternative to complicated, expensive and difficult to install VFD systems. Pre-assembled and ready-to-run, it's the ultimate combination of quality, savings and performance


City-like water pressure from existing submersible or jet pumps. Maintains 10 psig differential for smooth, consistent flow.
Digital Control allows accurate pressure settings up to 80 psi.
Well Tank carries a 5 year warranty
Digital Pressure control carries a 2 year warranty
Simple 4-wire setup, auto adjusts to 115 or 230 VAC and remains idle if wired improperly
The pressure control protects the pump with built in diagnostics for rapid cycling, low water and improper voltage.
Well Tank is NSF® International Standard 61 listed for clean safe drinking water
Pre-assembled with: Digital Pressure Control, Mounting Bracket, Brass Tank Tee, Copper Tubing, Compression Fittings, Relief Valve, Drain Assembly, Press Sleeves
The well tank is assembled with a heavy duty diaphragm and polypropylene liner that separate the water from the steel and air side of the pressure tank
IncludesWell Tank and Water Worker Digital Control
Durable composite tank stand

well tank.jpg
 
Originally Posted by Donald
Sounds like more on/off cycles for your pump which will wear it out faster.


That was my first thought, too, but then I saw this in what the OP posted.
Quote
The pressure control protects the pump with built in diagnostics for rapid cycling...
 
There's no magic here other than the 10 psi differential which means steadier pressure at the expense of more pump starts. Mechanical switches are 20 psi differential. "Protection from rapid cycling" means really rapid cycling as would happen with tank failure.
 
Thanks for the replies Gents.... I will stay with the standard tank. I am going to get the largest size I can buy, I have the room and seems the way to go if omne has the room.
 
Originally Posted by GON
Every ten years I replace my pressurized well tank as part of preventive maintenance. I have super iron water and I simply replace all the hardware from the pump inlet to the iron filter.

Pricing new tanks this morning at Menards and came across this :

Water Worker® Plumb n Run; 44 Gallon Pressurized Well Tank & Digital Control
Model Number: HT44-PNR Menards® SKU: 6913385

Not sure if I am reading this correctly- seems to imply it may increase water pressure in homes with private wells. My water pressure is not so good.

Has anyone seen/ used this type of pressure tank?

The Water Worker® Plumb 'n' Run system combines city-like water pressure utilizing an existing pump. It's the perfect alternative to complicated, expensive and difficult to install VFD systems. Pre-assembled and ready-to-run, it's the ultimate combination of quality, savings and performance


City-like water pressure from existing submersible or jet pumps. Maintains 10 psig differential for smooth, consistent flow.
Digital Control allows accurate pressure settings up to 80 psi.
Well Tank carries a 5 year warranty
Digital Pressure control carries a 2 year warranty
Simple 4-wire setup, auto adjusts to 115 or 230 VAC and remains idle if wired improperly
The pressure control protects the pump with built in diagnostics for rapid cycling, low water and improper voltage.
Well Tank is NSF® International Standard 61 listed for clean safe drinking water
Pre-assembled with: Digital Pressure Control, Mounting Bracket, Brass Tank Tee, Copper Tubing, Compression Fittings, Relief Valve, Drain Assembly, Press Sleeves
The well tank is assembled with a heavy duty diaphragm and polypropylene liner that separate the water from the steel and air side of the pressure tank
IncludesWell Tank and Water Worker Digital Control
Durable composite tank stand



Sounds like 99% marketing . But I am guessing . I am on city water .
 
If you really want consistent water pressure then a pressure regulator should be installed. Most appliances like washing machine and dishwasher fill by volume not by time.

Most people just use well water without issue.
 
Do not buy. I have dealt with a few of those and they do not deliver what people expect. Use a traditional well tank, the larger the better and have the pressure set at 40-60 psi. These are not magic bullets for low pressure. And as stated before your pump will have more on off cycles and will wear out quicker.
 
People have been using pressure tanks in well systems for decades. If there was really a better mouse trap for something so simple I personally think multiple options would have been on the shelves years ago. If more stable pressure is what your looking for why dont you get a really large tank? On my system I have a really large tank and a 2hp pump. During a shower I cant feel the pump cycle even with the laundry going, dishwasher running and toilets flushing.
 
Thanks again for the very informative replies.

The well is 300 feet deep, not the greatest construction I have been told. I do not know the size of the submersed pump, it was replaced four years ago while i was oversees.

I like the idea of installing a very large pressure tank. I have the room. The only issue- is there any risk my pump HP is to small for the 128 gallon tank?
 
Originally Posted by 1978elcamino
People have been using pressure tanks in well systems for decades. If there was really a better mouse trap for something so simple I personally think multiple options would have been on the shelves years ago. If more stable pressure is what your looking for why dont you get a really large tank? On my system I have a really large tank and a 2hp pump. During a shower I cant feel the pump cycle even with the laundry going, dishwasher running and toilets flushing.


The better mouse trap was the bladder tank vs the huge tank that you filled with air every so often.

The pumps last for a long time and get damaged by lightning and cycles. My Dad had a small nursery and used the submersible pump for our house for watering all the trees. It was an oversize pump for a house. He would turn it on in April and off in Oct and between those times just keep moving the section being watered. Never any problems.
 
There's no such thing as tank too large, if you don't mind the cost and space. It can help with a small pump because you have a reserve of water in the tank.

It's also possible to tee multiple tanks together. This may interest someone who is so concerned about tank failure that he engages in pre-emptive replacement. If valves are used on each tank a bad one could be valved off.
 
Last edited:
how are your water supply pipes??? i say this as my girlfriends well fed house has poor pressure + gets pinholes in her old copper lines so thinking of replacing them with 3/4 plastic made for house water as its inside diameter is similar to 1/2 copper + very EZE + cheap to glue fittings. the size of your lines can be an issue as well!
 
I would contemplate a very large non-pressurized holding tank utilizing a pump down circuit to minimize the sump pump cycling. I would use a pressurized tank fed from the holding tank set @ 50psi or so. If you have the room and topography the holding tank could be placed on a hill above the house or on a tower like an old farm.
 
Originally Posted by Fitter30
Why would you spend $720 on this tank when the same brand of tank is $247 and you can adjust the pressure switch with the same setting.

Th water pressure from the well is moderate. I enjoy taking a shower with higher water pressure. That is all.

I have looked at home water pressure systems, but for residential use seems city water is the primary application. When I saw this by mistake this morning, it caught my attention.

I am not going with it- but if it was something that would increase water pressure and/ or work better with my submersible pump I would be interested. $500 additional dollars is not much when trying to address/ improve well water delivery and/ or reliability.

My current system is a well pressure tank, whole house fitler, iron filter, and a dual tank water softness that always one tank to be recharged at any time.

Here is a picture of my current system. I plan on replacing the whole house filter with a Reusable Whole House Spin Down Sediment Water Filter , 99 percent of the piping/ connections with 1" PEX A (PROPEX).

water-boss.jpg
 
Submersible pumps can make lots of pressure if you set up the switch and tank properly.

First step would be to install a new pressure gauge to see what it really is, the gauges wear out.
 
You could always just add a pressure pump between the pressure tank and the house. Won't affect the sump pump but will cycle on during demand. Make sure the inlet is larger diameter than the outlet. This sort of emulates what you highlighted without any supply capacity and no controls other than pressure itself at a much cheaper price. Cheap enough to try it out imo.


https://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-...essure-control-switch-950-gph-63407.html
 
Biggest problems with a expansion tank setup is a bad gage, compromised bladder and not the correct air pressure. The pressure in the pressure tank should be 2 psi less than the cut-in pressure for the pump. For example, if the pump cut-in pressure is 40 psi, the tank bladder pressure should be 38 psi. This pressure has to be set with a drain down system 0 guage.
 
40 years of wells.

Do you lack volume or pressure, two different things, but they can combine to cause similar problems.

I've never had a problem with pressure from a submersible pump, you can normally crank it up to what works for you. The plumbing needs to be able to handle the pressure though.

You can have high pressure, but if you're plumbing isn't sized correctly, or the distance is too great, the static pressure will be high, but once you open a faucet the pressure you see will drop immediately.

I've had up to three pressure tanks on one system, one in the pump house and two at the house. With less pipe to travel through there's less head loss, so at the faucet you have greater volume and pressure.

No extra costs for pumps, wiring and electricity.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top