There are still a lot of very knowledgeable members on this forum. Even though I've been around for a bit, and lurking even longer, I still consider myself a newb. I joined to learn about tribological theory on one hand, but also to ask a bunch of newb questions, like, "Which oil is best for my vehicle." I had a sporty car when I first joined that was known to have internal weaknesses and manufacturing issues, so I sent out samples for analysis often. I was also keen on following the data, so I ran longer OCI's than many who hadn't performed UOA recommended. It was fun and I learned a lot.
The one take-away I have from this place, after all that I've learned, is that oil choice largely hasn't mattered for a lot of us over the years; just about any oil would work and the body of most vehicles will rust away before the engine has an oil-related issue; that is barring any design flaw that might require a better oil or shorter interval to, say, combat a poor timing chain design that results in chain stretch, excessive guide wear, etc.
Now, I'm not saying that the cheapest oil that meets the spec is ALWAYS the right call. Some people have very specific concerns, based on engine design, driving habits, OCI expectations:
1. I'm concerned about valve deposits in my DIT, so I've learned that a D1G2, GF-6, SN+ or any future oil spec'd with fewer additives-of-concern re: LSPI, designed with a lower NOACK, etc. are likely prudent. In this case, I'm interested in new spec's and continue to read on here as things develop regarding both concerns. If someone proved that my DIT would last appreciably longer using something like Redline, I'd very strongly consider it.
2. When it comes to my MPI Legacy; however, just about any oil at a reasonable interval will suffice. It will likely go to the wrecker due to rust or when the CVT goes out at 200k miles (knocks on wood) and I find out they're still charging upwards of $8k for a replacement. I still choose to run a "better" oil, but that's because it's inexpensive to run just about any name-brand oil, since they're always on-sale!
3. If I tracked, auto-X or drove my vehicles in any way that caused me to believe a boutique oil would be even remotely beneficial, I'd also consider doing so. I did in my STI, but don't feel that it's necessary for either of my current vehicles. If I solicited advice on here about which oil to run, I'd include that I occasionally drive aggressively (mostly in the FXT and mostly to knock the cobwebs off/out of the DIT, since my wife does plenty of short-tripping now that we've moved closer to the city and, well, because it's fun!) Normally, around 99.9% of the time (especially in the slow FB25-powered Legacy), I drive conservatively and defensively as far as the engine is concerned, anyway.
The OP hasn't given us any real reason for why he wants to run Redline. Barring any real reason for doing so, nor any inclination that he might provide us with a UOA or some other objective data we can then discuss after-the-fact, why is it wrong for us to want to prudently steer the OP towards any on of the mainer cheaper oils that will still likely exceed his needs? We're not talking about whether detailing/waxing his car twice a year will help resale value ten years from now or whether a top-tier fuel over Joe's No-Brand gas is likely prudent, wherein there objectively might be some benefit. Barring any more information, and with such a generic request about a brand of oil, not specific oil, I think we can objectively conclude that we don't have enough information to answer the OP's question, and that, regardless, it's not likely in the OP's best interest to simply try Redline for trying's sake.