Thoughts on redline?

Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by BTLew81
I've never tried it. I know it's probably overkill for my accord. I wanna try it. Lol

I currently run magnatec 5w30 in my accord 2.0t, so I'd probably go with the RL 0w20 since the 5w30 is a bit thick for something that specs 0w20. Is RL still using high calcium? Any issues in a tgdi engine?

Open to any insight.

Redline now has a SN Plus oil with much lower Calcium. You can research it at their website.
https://www.redlineoil.com/


Which is nothing more than a standard Philips 66 product that says "Redline" on the bottle.

So Phillips 66 5W30 now has a HTHS vis of 3.7?....... Wow!
Thanks for sharing that.
https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/5W30_MO_PROD_INFO.pdf

Interesting, for "nothing more than a standard Phillips 66 product", I wonder why Phillips 66 has a HTHS of 3.0 and Redline 3.7. Weird, eh?

https://s3.amazonaws.com/phillips66...f-a35ae4fb2512/original/Shield_Armor.pdf

Scott
 
Originally Posted by 330indy
what a hostile thread.
Redline has proven superior in my BMWs
protection
and cleanliness

so there
cost no object


Sadly, so many threads here nowadays are going that way… People are so insistent that someone use what they use rather than experimenting on their own… It's ludicrous.

Originally Posted by BTLew81
Seriously...forget I asked. Wow...


You sir, are not the first one to be driven away by hostile membership here… I am close to it myself even though I've been here for a while.

I think it's a great idea to try Redline in your vehicle, it will be interesting to see the difference in UOAs between the two oils. Especially since money is no object. I will look forward to seeing the results when you get them back.

Several members here I've been using redline oil at 10,000 mile intervals for years with good results… That said, your driving habits may be different than theirs.
 
Originally Posted by Gebo
You might want to PM some of the guys you respect. It can get a little tough on here. What I really like are the guys that go back through your posts from 4 years ago and use them to try and prove you are an idiot. What kind of person does that? LOL


Malicious idiots.
 
Originally Posted by SLO_Town
Interesting, for "nothing more than a standard Phillips 66 product", I wonder why Phillips 66 has a HTHS of 3.0 and Redline 3.7. Weird, eh?

https://s3.amazonaws.com/phillips66...f-a35ae4fb2512/original/Shield_Armor.pdf

Scott


Please go back and read my subsequent post so that you are following correctly. It's the PROFESSIONAL series products that are relabelled Phillips 66 offerings, the white bottle High-Performance series, which carries no API approvals, has not been reformulated and is still heavily additized, is the same as it has always been.
 
Originally Posted by Donald
bottom line is Redline is high quality oil and so are a shelf full at Walmart. So is Amsoil.


thumbsup2.gif
Agreed. If you are looking for an incredibly robust lubricant produced with high-end base oils, the traditional white bottle Redline offerings are excellent. If cost is not an issue, then running it in more pedestrian applications certainly isn't going to be of detriment, though I'm not sure any benefit may be realized either but that's irrelevant if it is being done for the reason that somebody simply wants to run what they perceive as "the best".

On the other hand, and what I've had an exceedingly hard time getting across for some reason, is that if you are buying the "Professional Series" you aren't getting anything better than what's available on the shelves at CT, Walmart...etc. So it is certainly not worth paying a premium for.
 
If Redline would affix that magic API starburst to their High Performance lineup, I'd be using it in the Mustang. Group IV / Group V > Group III. There's no clear advantage in using the Pro series unless you just like giving more money away for the same / marginally better protection as the department store oils.

Having said that.....Mobil 1 / PP seem to be doing fine in my turbo, and would do fine in an Accord.
 
Originally Posted by WylieCoyote
If Redline would affix that magic API starburst to their High Performance lineup, I'd be using it in the Mustang. Group IV / Group V > Group III. There's no clear advantage in using the Pro series unless you just like giving more money away for the same / marginally better protection as the department store oils.

Having said that.....Mobil 1 / PP seem to be doing fine in my turbo, and would do fine in an Accord.



I don't think they can or would want to because of the additive levels.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by SLO_Town
Interesting, for "nothing more than a standard Phillips 66 product", I wonder why Phillips 66 has a HTHS of 3.0 and Redline 3.7. Weird, eh?

https://s3.amazonaws.com/phillips66...f-a35ae4fb2512/original/Shield_Armor.pdf

Scott


Please go back and read my subsequent post so that you are following correctly. It's the PROFESSIONAL series products that are relabelled Phillips 66 offerings, the white bottle High-Performance series, which carries no API approvals, has not been reformulated and is still heavily additized, is the same as it has always been.

Redline 5w-30 Professional = HTHS 3.2.
Phillips 66 5w-30 Shield Armor Full Synthetic Motor Oil = HTHS 3.0.

Rounding error?

I'm curious, how can you make the statement, "It's the PROFESSIONAL series products that are relabelled Phillips 66 offerings". Do you work for P66? Redline?

Scott
 
I don't think there's any reason to think that most of us here are being anything other than honest and blunt about our opinions. No pertinent info regarding the OP's desire to try RL was given, nor did he say that money isn't of concern. So, if I posted a question about something I didn't know much about, I'd be just as open to the contrary posts as those simply saying, "go for it!" Heck, if all I received from members here was a mix of those who are adamant that I NOT spend money needlessly and those who simply say it won't hurt anything, I'd probably take that as a clear sign that it's a waste of money.

I feel as if some people post threads with their minds already made up, even if they're asking for insight, advice, etc.. I don't think it's fair to solicit opinions and not expect the full gamut of responses.

As I said, you'd be better off spending the additional money each oil change on something that will actually make a difference.
 
It's not so much that it's overkill for your accord, but more out in left field. For a similar price, I'd recommend the BAS oil from High Performance Lubricants which has a lower friction coefficient than Red Line (1900+ ppm Mo) and can go longer drain intervals with a higher TBN and more anti-oxidants. The higher POE content of Red Line, while giving better solubility and high temperature protection, also shortens the service life.
 
Funny how people rip on the cost of redline yet have no qualms about a dealer nailing them for an $80 oil change. I'm more of a $2.00 a quart and do it myself kind of guy. At least I know it's done right.
 
Redline is probably one of the very best oils on the market. But does it benefit you to use it? There are some engines that do benefit (flat lifter cams with high spring pressures, for example) but honestly an Accord probably isn't anywhere near that list. Now, I think "peace of mind" counts for something and if you just WANT to use a premium oil (even if there's little quantifiable reason), then DO SO and don't let the people that will inevitably tell you how much cheaper Supertech is deter you. The difference in cost of oil from generic to premium is always going to be ridiculously small percentage of the total cost of ownership of a vehicle, so economics just don't even really factor in, at least not in a significant way. Fuel is a much bigger economic impact. Heck, paying for car washes is a bigger economic impact!

FWIW, I posted a VOA on Redline 0w40 a while back, as well as a couple of less expensive alternatives. There were differences, but minimal. see this thread for the VOAs. Also be aware that some of the most fundamental differences, like the high percentage of Group V base, won't show up in a VOA.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by SLO_Town
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by SLO_Town
Interesting, for "nothing more than a standard Phillips 66 product", I wonder why Phillips 66 has a HTHS of 3.0 and Redline 3.7. Weird, eh?

https://s3.amazonaws.com/phillips66...f-a35ae4fb2512/original/Shield_Armor.pdf

Scott


Please go back and read my subsequent post so that you are following correctly. It's the PROFESSIONAL series products that are relabelled Phillips 66 offerings, the white bottle High-Performance series, which carries no API approvals, has not been reformulated and is still heavily additized, is the same as it has always been.

Redline 5w-30 Professional = HTHS 3.2.
Phillips 66 5w-30 Shield Armor Full Synthetic Motor Oil = HTHS 3.0.

Rounding error?

I'm curious, how can you make the statement, "It's the PROFESSIONAL series products that are relabelled Phillips 66 offerings". Do you work for P66? Redline?

Scott


Phillips 66 owns Redline. The Professional series was a recent addition to the Redline brand designed to garner more sales. In the thread I linked earlier in this thread there are snaps of PDS sheets of oils from both brands which are clearly identical. This only makes sense given the existing C66 portfolio, there'd be no reason to conjure up a new product when they can just as easily relabel one of their existing ones.
 
Originally Posted by SLO_Town

Redline 5w-30 Professional = HTHS 3.2.
Phillips 66 5w-30 Shield Armor Full Synthetic Motor Oil = HTHS 3.0.

Rounding error?

I'm curious, how can you make the statement, "It's the PROFESSIONAL series products that are relabelled Phillips 66 offerings". Do you work for P66? Redline?

Scott


Just for you:
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]
 
Originally Posted by SLO_Town
Redline 5w-30 Professional = HTHS 3.2.
Phillips 66 5w-30 Shield Armor Full Synthetic Motor Oil = HTHS 3.0.

Rounding error?

Well it would be reproducibility, not rounding error. I can't find a "free" copy of ASTM D4741 to find out the value, but for similar ASTM methods it is somewhere around 3-4%. It may be better for ASTM D4741 since this is the new and improved method of determining HTHS.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by SLO_Town
Redline 5w-30 Professional = HTHS 3.2.
Phillips 66 5w-30 Shield Armor Full Synthetic Motor Oil = HTHS 3.0.

Rounding error?

Well it would be reproducibility, not rounding error. I can't find a "free" copy of ASTM 4741 to find out the value, but for similar ASTM methods it is somewhere around 3-4%. It may be different for ASTM 4741 since this is the new and improved method of determining HTHS.


Don't worry yourself with that, he was just looking at the wrong P66 product, the 5w-30 is rebottled Shield Valor not Shield Armor.
 
Red Line is a great oil and would do fine in your car. If you are looking for that portion of ester content that does have quantifiable benefits you are well informed to skip the darlings recommended by the cheap weasels that are attacking you.
If you desire a real group lV/V that has real approvals check out Ravenol.
 
Originally Posted by D1dad
Funny how people rip on the cost of redline yet have no qualms about a dealer nailing them for an $80 oil change. I'm more of a $2.00 a quart and do it myself kind of guy. At least I know it's done right.



I'm not sure how you're drawing a parallel between someone who does and does not do their own oil changes. Besides, I would never advise someone to get their basic maintenance done at a dealer if my opinion on the matter was asked. Most people who have their vehicles maintained at dealers typically aren't interested in other options or don't know any better, and certainly aren't hanging out with us here on BITOG, so the point is moot.

With that said, dealers sometimes offer coupons that allow them to compete with other oil change places, so it's not fair to blanket bash on dealers, either.
 
Back
Top